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Replacement glue?


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That's the one. I use 12.5g rather than the 25g you've linked, but that's purely down to rate of consumption. If you need that much glue, then you need that much glue.

 

Also a fan of revell. But I have more succes with their bottles with included brush. 

 

Was the only option available that i could see unless your referring to this one 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Revell-Contacta-Liquid-Special-Adhesive/dp/B0002HZ3MQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1476637373&sr=1-2&keywords=Revells+plastic

Pinvise? Best. Tool. Ever. (Alongside clippers and knife)

 

I bought the GW drill. Expensive, probably too expensive for it's quality, but it server me very well.

Look around for some cheaper alternatives. I believe that Subtle Discord made a post about tools. I'll have a look around for that one.

How thick the glue is, how much solvent is in it, and how thin/small the applicator/nozzle are what will always affect any brand of glue.

Many polycement glues include some filler, which is what gives them "body" and helps to fill small gaps. The stuff in tubes has a lot of filler, and is quite stringy, whereas the thin runny stuff in bottles has rather less. In both cases, the filler has a second function, which is to trap the solvent in the joint for longer, allowing it to soften the plastic enough for the bond to form.

What I use instead is a solvent weld product (EMA Plastic Weld, or Ambroid Pro-Weld). This is just the solvent -no filler- and will bond many plastics besides high-impact or hard styrene (which is what model kits are typically made of). To use it, you hold the two pieces together, and then run a small brush dipped into the solvent along the joint. Capillary action draws the solvent into the joint, and forms a strong bond without having the stuff gloop or squeeze out of the joint.

With solvent welds, the usual warnings about good ventilation and proper care apply. I will also suggest that you use some poster putty (blutack or similar) to stick the bottle to the table while you use it - it is trivially easy to knock it over accidentally otherwise, and this will pretty much ruin anything it comes into contact with (and keep in mind that it's thinner than water, so it will get everywhere!). This is obviously the voice of experience speaking (ahem! blush.png ), but since I took to sticking down the bottle so it can't be knocked over, I have had zero spills. cool.png

Edit: sigh, spelling again...

Tamiya green-cap plastic glue. The best I've ever tried.

 

I started using Tamiya Extra Thin a while back and I don't think I'll ever look for another plastic cement. It's absolutely fantastic. I use it the way Major Gilbear mentioned for solvents, holding the piece together and letting it 'flood' the gaps. It also does a decent job of filling small gaps if you give it a bit extra. Super strong bonds and very easy to use. 

Testors liquid cement glue is the best glue I have ever used for any plastic model kits. It can be used used just like regular glue or you can use the brush applicator to apply glue directly to a seem. The bottles aren't too expensive and they will last a long time. Highly recommend this product to anyone that's never used it.

 

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/TES00003502/product.php?gclid=CPTVkfCf4s8CFQ52fgodUZEIXw

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