Canadian_F_H Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Seriously, I never understood how gw expects us to use flat transfers on a curved surface... for example, their most common destination, a marine's shoulder pads. I know there are some solvents out there, and I guess I need to look into them... but I don't remember GW every using them in any demos... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Midwest Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Depending on the particular transfer, you can make cuts into any "empty" spaces to help with it lying flatter to the surface. For example, with the Ultramarines' "U" icon, you can cut down the middle of that space within the "U" to help ensure the icon lies flat with no creasing or bubbling. I also find using careful circular motions with a soft brush can help work out such imperfections, at least from the visible graphics. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536575 Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewChristlieb Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 I used some Templar crosses on my neophytes (feeling lazy at the time). I used my xacto knife to trim them almost all the way down to the cross before I dunked them and made some small cuts just into each of the inside corners of the cross, maybe a couple millimeters in to help fold them onto the shoulder. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536580 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian_F_H Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Those are the methods I used in the past for my black templars. It was adequate... But the imperial fist icon I put on my terminator libby looks like garbage... as does the Iron warrior logo on the corpse at his feet... Whichaos is WY this is coming up now anyways... I've only ever done templars before. And my brothers blood angels went without transfers all this time sadly... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536585 Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nolith Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Micro Set + Micro Sol Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536595 Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewChristlieb Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Hum... when I get around to doing my Deathwatch I was going to just paint the fist's icon, but I might have to play around with the decal and see how best to approach it. Just glancing at the fist decal I think I would just make a slight cut at 12 and 6 on a round decal like that to help it lay and maybe another at 2 and 10 because of the exaggerated curve at the top of the shoulder pad... :/ Use the extra flexibility from the cuts to get the wrinkles out of the decal and then manipulate the decal around with a brush to line up the lines. When I've done them before I put them on gloss paint and put down some water on the pad before putting the decal on so it slides around really easily. Dunno if that helps at all, but it feels easier for me anyway. :D Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536599 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian_F_H Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 Micro Set + Micro Sol Thats the names I was trying to remember... now where to find them locally... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536603 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brother-Chaplain Kage Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Blood Angels are easy since you cut the wings and blood drop separate from each other and position them individually. Solvents and/or making small cuts with paint touchups will take care of most any decal on a shoulderpad. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536675 Share on other sites More sharing options...
m0nolith Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Micro Set + Micro Sol Thats the names I was trying to remember... now where to find them locally... Amazon my friend. Trust me on this; when it comes to painting and modelling in our hobby, the Prime membership is worth it. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536695 Share on other sites More sharing options...
sockwithaticket Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Micro Set + Micro Sol Thats the names I was trying to remember... now where to find them locally... Mate, you're on the internet... Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536743 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charlo Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Micro Set + Micro Sol Thats the names I was trying to remember... now where to find them locally... Amazon my friend. Trust me on this; when it comes to painting and modelling in our hobby, the Prime membership is worth it. Liquitex! Basing materials! Army Painter brushes! AMAZON! Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536880 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kisada Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 https://youtu.be/cj3hS7vUIo4 Followed this guy's advice on decals on shoulder pads ... worked amazing! My decals look basically painted on. This is the best pic I have right now ... will take a better one when I get home http://i.imgur.com/ib0OcSq.jpg Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4536925 Share on other sites More sharing options...
old git Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 If possible, a triangular shape is best to sit on a 2D curve ie a marine shoulder pad. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4537067 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dosjetka Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 Interesting. I'll keep that in mind when I cut out my Forge World decals. :) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4537068 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 No offence to the original poster, but it's just a little unfair to place some sort of blame on GW, as if they have an easy alternative that they're avoiding for some reason. Decals are flat by manufacturing necessity and models are going to have curved and irregular surfaces, so there's no straightforward solution to the problem that GW can control. That said, Micro-Sol and Micro-Set are the answers you're looking for, but be prepared for the small learning curve that will come with them; odds are you'll want to do a few practice attempts to perfect your technique. A key thing to note is, when you first apply the mild solvent to soften the decal it will cause the decal to wrinkle/deform and it will appear to be ruining the decal far worse then any poor result you may have achieved without the solution. Remember to not panic and give it time, the wrinkling is normal and it will relax, smooth out, and contour to the surface as the solvent dries. Once you get used to the process the results are completely worth taking the time to learn. You can get decals to lay perfectly flat on some of the most stubborn surfaces using products like Micro-Sol/Set, and with a layer of varnish they are so smooth that they'll appear to be painted on. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4537173 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian_F_H Posted October 19, 2016 Author Share Posted October 19, 2016 You missed my point of contention that for years gw never said anything about using anything other than water when using transfers. I'm not that upset about it, I juse don't see how they did it in over a hundred white dwarf mags I had back then and didn't hear about Microsol until I came to the bnc a year or so ago. (Granted I would have heard of it sooner if I hadn't stopped a decade or so ago ) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4537271 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subtle Discord Posted October 19, 2016 Share Posted October 19, 2016 The solvent and setting solutions are by no means 'necessary' to get good results, they just make it much easier to get them. I've put decals on for years without it, and have had more then a few people question how I do it so well. The key in that case it a nice gloss surface, cutting the decal, pressure with the right kind of material, and a good gloss after-coat before you varnish, plus you might need to repeat the process a bit to get some edges. Much more work that has much more room for error, I'll agree completely, but also completely achievable. With the huge overlap that the build and painting part of this hobby has with other hobbies it's odd; GW has become almost militant about not mentioning outside companies and their products, and on a certain level I can understand, they are a business after all. Especially if it's for something from their own product line. But the attitude towards products that they don't sell and will likely never sell, seems like a poor call to me as well. After a certain 'basic technique' level, you will learn much more about1 building and painting by exploring other hobbies like military modeling, scale train building, etc.. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4537341 Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlodVargarna Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 Microset and Microsol are lifesavers, but you need to prep the surface of the shoulder pad with a good gloss like 'ardcoat. Once your decal is on, use Microsol and let it dry. then coat again with 'ardcoat. Once it is dry you can paint the gloss with matte finish. It looks great. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4539863 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slave to Darkness Posted October 21, 2016 Share Posted October 21, 2016 GW wont mention Sol and Set because they dont make it. Same reason why they dont tell you what paints they really used when they started with the Heresy stuff because they used third party products. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4539979 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted October 22, 2016 Share Posted October 22, 2016 GW wont mention Sol and Set because they dont make it. Same reason why they dont tell you what paints they really used when they started with the Heresy stuff because they used third party products. Not sure that's entirely true; FW were perfectly open with the paints they used (including the Tamiya Clear paints). New painting guides use the paints they released subsequently though. As for solvents... GW products tend to have less solvent in them than thier competitors' products, and I suspect that they don't sell re-branded Microsol for similar related safety reasons. It's also why other glues and sprays are often better that GW's offerings (and not just because of price reasons). Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/327005-what-was-gw-thinking-with-transfers/#findComment-4540652 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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