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Raptors 3rd and 10th company


MajorNese

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Yep, those look suitable, if deviating from the style a bit. Regular jump packs fit nicely to the style, but I didn't have spares around. Just keep in mind that the ammo belt goes to a drum fixed to the backpack (see here) - either put box/drum mags directly onto the autocannon (there were 3rd party bitz IIRC), or find a way to cut the existing ammo drum off one backpack and fix it to the new one.

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  • 1 month later...

WiP update - the "less repulsive Repulsor" is finally getting somewhere.

 

1y8k9p.jpg

2s1jet.jpg

3kkk1e.jpg

 

LandRaider tracks, Rhino side plates for wheels and lower rear armour, and a compact dual krakstorm launcher to clean up the look, instead of plastering the turret with random missile launchers. Pintle guns are done by autonomous weapons platforms (in the back of the last picture).

 

Still to do is the entire decoration, but I'll look into some real world tanks as inspiration before doing so. Still, it should be finished for the ETL start.

Edited by MajorNese
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Okay, here's the rough process. It's not arranged step by step, but it should give an impression on how it's done.

 

To convert one Repulsor, you will need:

-3x Rhino outer side panel (those are left over on every single Deimos Rhino - ask heresy players). One left, one right, one doesn't matter (track wheels count)

-1x Rhino front plate (again, leftover for anyone who used the chapter specific ones)

-2x Rhino top hatch plates

-1x Land Raider tracks (probably the hardest part to find - I was lucky that a friend converted his LR to a nurgle slug)

 

Note - with the storm bolter/fragstorm turrets, there is no way to feed one track all the way around the tank. So I made two separate drives per side, which doesn't seem necessary for the new variant.

 

repulsorseite2wk52.jpg

 

From the Rhino panels, you will need the bottom track wheels (a total of 7 per side), and the rear section to mask the missing antigrav parts at the Repulsor's rear.

 

rhinopartsmmktv.jpg

 

The track wheels need to be roughly level - the pic above shows the extrusion connecting it to the side panel cut off, but everything on the same height of the wheel needs to stay there. This "connecting tab" above the wheel's half circle is then glued to the inner side of the Repulsor's outer side panel. The interior row of wheels won't be visible anyway, so I just put some sprue in there to support the other side of the tracks. I'd advise having the tracks on hand when glueing the wheels, so the wheels can rest on the tracks and stay level.

 

repulsorboden5ujid.jpg

 

repulsorheck2zjkyg.jpg

 

The forward wheels are easier to do than the rear, I'd advise doing them first to get the hang of it, then first file down the Rhino rear plate part to be level with the forward armour. For the rear part, I did include the original antigrav stems as support for the tracks.

 

repulsorheckqgk0l.jpg

 

Applying the tracks has a few options to it - the LR kit has different lengths, I don't have a complete arrangement of links as I just cut and bend however necessary, both sides are different in that matter. To fit the rear track sections, it may be useful to first do the rear section (detailed further below), so the tracks fit the rear plate with the cut-off jet engines.

 

As the front of the tank is now missing the repulsor stems/plates covering it, that's where the spare Rhino front plate steps in. Cut a few millimeters off the sides, dry fit and mark where it is level with the main hull, then cut off there. The gap on the underside can be closed by plasticard, but I doubt anyone will notice.

 

repulsorunten59jh2.jpg

 

At the rear of the tank, there's now a useless propulsion system. Before putting in the part with the 4 jet engines, cut off the engines and file it level. Then it can be covered up by plasticard, or (in my case) the Rhino hatch plates. I removed the railing too, there is little sense for it on the rear of a regular tank. Cover the area with gear for a more natural look.

 

repulsorrckseite3ljem.jpg

 

And that's it. I'll post pics of the finished version when it is done (probably a few weeks into ETL).

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Yep, a man's gotta do what a man's got to do. Make models less ugly.

 

Got a bit of detailing done, as well as clear a lot of the smaller things. This time, I'll not entirely cover the tank in gear, keep it a bit more realistic. So one half should be good to go, next week the other one plus sandbags on the front/turret gap. With RL obligations, it probably won't get done till ETL start, but it will be part of my second vow.

 

18eju7.jpg

 

2nlken.jpg

 

3hcj36.jpg

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I love all the stowage that you put on your models. Really makes me want to get some resin and bits and make my own molds.

It's easier than one might think, as long as you do one-part molds. Stowage (and vehicle doors) being flat on the back side makes this rather uncomplicated, so you can get used to working with silicone and resin.

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  • 2 weeks later...

That looks really good. Do his brethren carry around a step ladder so they can get into the pouches on his armor? :wink:

They gotta sit on his lap, and listen to the wisdom of the ancient while they get their stuff...or just his rants about how the new redemptor chassis makes sneaking even harder.

 

Nah, at least it doesn't look all too empty. My guys don't have bling, but a bit of spare tools/ammo/supplies never hurt.

Edited by MajorNese
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Given the practicality of the Raptors, those pouches on the Redemptor make perfect sense: spare parts and specialized tools for the techmarine, adept, or good samaritan battle-brother who has to do urgent repairs in the field.  I'm going to have to remember something like that when I add a dread to my force. Good thinking!

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