Magnetizing A Dreadknight

[SolomonKane]

Hey guys quick question here!!

 

What magnets should i use to magnetize the dreadknight's torso to his legs?

I bought the 4mmx1mm but they seem rather small to hold that kind of weight(i think they will do a fine job for his weapons though)

Any suggestions???

Thanks in advance :))

[duz_]

Yeh definitely need to go big or go home
I tried with 3mm's and that didnt work

You might need 5'2 or 6's (if those work)

 

I didnt bother magnetizing the weapons, they seem to clip / slide in ok
Although the sword does need some blutac now and again

[Waking Dreamer]

I actually use 5x1mm magnets and they do just fine. I can hold the DK upside down and the torso wont fall. Before I secured my DK onto his base, I would sometimes just have him standing on my table, and if he fell the torso would probably separate from the impact on the table...but that was fine as id rather have the force dissipated by the separation than concentrated on a plastic bit and possibly have that get cracked/chipped.

 

I also use blutac for the CC weapons. Initially, I was thinking of using 3x1mm magnets but plugging up the hole on the arm, and then cutting the pegs on the hands to make room for the magnets was a lot of effort (for me), when a little blutac and the original hole/peg design it has makes it very secure to play on the tabletop.

[Prot]

Honestly mine isn't magnetized at the waist. I put in a few magnets in the gauntlets for a quick swap from sword/hammer/fist. I find it actually works fine, but I can see why you may want to go that far. :)

[Myunch]

Honestly mine isn't magnetized at the waist. I put in a few magnets in the gauntlets for a quick swap from sword/hammer/fist. I find it actually works fine, but I can see why you may want to go that far. :)

It can definitely increase the ease of transport depending on what you have. I personally have the small citadel case and just take out one of the top layers of foam, laying my NDK face down.

 

Magnetizing is great, but I've found that the slots hold up the sword/hammer pretty well on their own so I haven't actually magnetized yet, although eventually I do see myself doing this.

[jeffersonian000]

I've magnetized both arms for weapon swaps, and have the right hand swappable with steel pins that are drawn to the right arm magnets. Locks everything in place, yet still lets me switch with the meta. Waist is fine on mibe fully attached, no transport issues.

 

SJ

[Valerian]

I've magnetized both arms for weapon swaps, and have the right hand swappable with steel pins that are drawn to the right arm magnets. Locks everything in place, yet still lets me switch with the meta. Waist is fine on mibe fully attached, no transport issues.

 

SJ

 

Would you mind sharing some pictures to show the details of how you did that?  I think a little tutorial with photos would be a helpful resource in here.

[jeffersonian000]

Sorry, I can't post photos in BnC, I've been blocked for years. But it's an easy set up, with a 2mm neo magnet on either side of the weapon mount on the right arm, opposite polarity with the weapon matching so that it alway snaps on facing the correct direction. The right hand has two pins (cut from a paperclip) mounted, so that when the hand is inserted the pins are attracted to the nearer neo magnet. No contact is needed, the steel pins hold fast nicely.

 

I do the same set up with the left arm, only with an empty hand glued in place.

 

Over the many years of magnetizing 40k models, I've found that using steel pins on small parts work wonderfully for attaching to nearby neo magnets, where direct contact can be tricky or might effect the model. I like to insert a pin into the top of a Rhino hatch for example, and place a larger magnet in the chassis above the door so that the pin will hold the door in place while I can set vehicle upgrades like a Krak Missile on the spot where the magnet is.

 

On my GKT, I did the same thing with two alignment pins on the hands and a 1mm neo magnet mounted in the lower arm. I have two holes for the pins to slide into, while the proximity to the magnet locks the hand in place. Did this back in 5e when the new plastic kits came out, because I didn't know which weapons I wanted to use at the time (they were free upgrades and each had cool benefits). Thankfully, I haven't had a need to buy new GK kits from GW for two editions in a row because of this forethought.

 

SJ

[duz_]

My only issue with doing it that way is making sure the pins line up exactly.

What's your trick for that?

[jeffersonian000]

A pin vice and a lot of dry fitting. Use to have to pin the old lead and pewter models back in the day to kerp them from falling apart at any little bumo, before the fancy smancy plastics arrived to save us from hours of drilling. Was great practice for magnetizing the new models.

 

SJ