Castellax-Achea (90% Complete - Advice Needed)

[Apostle of the 30th Host]

I just wanted to show off my new Castellax-Achea I 'finished' today. It is a gorgeous model and I am really happy with the colour scheme. Will be very easy to replicate on my Thousand Sons (when I get them...).
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
I still need to do transfers and finish the base up, but everything else is done and I am not at a stage where I can complete the rest yet so it is 'finished' for now.
 
This is what I needed some advice on...
 
I have never done transfers before, so will need to learn that, but I am sure there is somewhere I can finds a good tutorial on that so I am not going to ask for that here. I would quite like an opinion on how good the FW Sons transfer sheet is (it is quite expensive for what it is - is it worth it?) and which ones might look good on the Castellax.
 
Also, I am a bit stuck on how to paint the rest of the base. I am happy with my sand effect, but I want to replicate the kind of white stone FW used on their Prospero display (or maybe even a marble effect if it is not too hard) but it needs to be that kind of white-grey as that is the vision I have of Prospero. I am unsure how to go about it with GW paints though. These are all I have ever used, and therefore what I am used to so if I could stick to these it would be preferred as I probably have most of the colours already - but if you have achieved that look with other paints I would love to see it as I would be happy to try something new if it is better.

[Atia]

Regarding transfers - the FW sheets are high quality and they have icons that fit very well on the achea's shoulder pads. Just get some micro set and micro sol  aswell as varnish- these will help you a lot when working with transfer sheets!

 

For the marble effect - watch this video, it helps a lot:

 

[Apostle of the 30th Host]

Regarding transfers - the FW sheets are high quality and they have icons that fit very well on the achea's shoulder pads. Just get some micro set and micro sol  aswell as varnish- these will help you a lot when working with transfer sheets!

 

For the marble effect - watch this video, it helps a lot:

 

 

Thank you for that! That is really helpful. Video is very interesting too; not sure if I would be able to replicate it 100%, as that guy is very talented, but it is definitely helpful and gives me something to think about. Thanks again, it is really appreciated! :D

[1ncarnadine]

Thank you for that! That is really helpful. Video is very interesting too; not sure if I would be able to replicate it 100%, as that guy is very talented, but it is definitely helpful and gives me something to think about. Thanks again, it is really appreciated!

"Sucking at something is the first step to becoming sorta good at something." - Jay T. Doggzone

And even if you don't replicate it perfectly, maybe you'll become good at doing it a slightly different way that still looks great. Don't worry about it too much! Just do it!

(the robot is looking great by the way)

[depthcharge12]

My best advice for transfers is to:

 

1.) apply micro set to the model surface you want the decal on

 

2.) soak the transfer in water (15-30 seconds)

 

3.) apply transfer to model area that has micro set on it and cover it with a layer of micro set over the top

 

4.) let dry for about an hour or more, then apply micro sol over the top without moving the transfer

 

 

If the surfaces are still uneven before or after applying the transfer, I'd highly recommend adding a gloss varnish over the whole area :)

[Apostle of the 30th Host]

Thank you for that! That is really helpful. Video is very interesting too; not sure if I would be able to replicate it 100%, as that guy is very talented, but it is definitely helpful and gives me something to think about. Thanks again, it is really appreciated!

"Sucking at something is the first step to becoming sorta good at something." - Jay T. Doggzone

And even if you don't replicate it perfectly, maybe you'll become good at doing it a slightly different way that still looks great. Don't worry about it too much! Just do it!

(the robot is looking great by the way)

Thank you for the words of encouragement. It is mainly because I don't own an airbrush, and only have GW paints. However, I can see that video being a good start to base my own attempts from. I think a few practice attempts are called for!

Just need to decide if I want white stone or white marble... (in my mind, Pospero had stone like Minas Tirith, but then I thought marble might be cool too in places). Both compliment the sand nicely.

And thanks for complimenting the robot! I'm pleased with it so far so that means a lot.

My best advice for transfers is to:

1.) apply micro set to the model surface you want the decal on

2.) soak the transfer in water (15-30 seconds)

3.) apply transfer to model area that has micro set on it and cover it with a layer of micro set over the top

4.) let dry for about an hour or more, then apply micro sol over the top without moving the transfer

If the surfaces are still uneven before or after applying the transfer, I'd highly recommend adding a gloss varnish over the whole area

That's brilliant! Thanks for that. If using gloss varnish (or even micro sol/set), is there any way to remove the gloss shine from the model?

I suppose really what I am asking is, is there a good matte varnish you would recommend? I could probably do with coating my finished stuff in it for a bit of protection, especially as I don't have much time for gaming currently and I would hate to scratch the paint of anything in storage or while cleaning the dust off it or anything. I gess this would also counter the gloss varnish.

[depthcharge12]

I've heard nothing but good things with Testors Dull Cote. You'll just need to be careful when you spray it due to humidity.

 

I usually just do a satin varnish out of an airbrush.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Gloss varnish FIRST before putting the decal down. Matte surfaces are very porous and uneven at the microscopic level and they refract light all over the place; air can get trapped between the decal and that porous surface and look bad. A gloss surface is very smooth and has a much smaller chance of air getting trapped between the two surfaces. Then you use the Micro Sol/Set stuff and put gloss over the decal once dry, and then hit it with a matt finish to kill the shine. It will make the decals look like paint.