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GW Sprays on metal/tin


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The best thing for priming metal models is primer that has been formulated for sticking to metal. I normally suggest using an automotive primer for this very reason.

The GW sprays, whilst marketed variously as "Primer" and "Undercoat" are usually more undercoat than proper primer as such. Either way, you can still spray them onto bare metal successfully, but I would strongly suggest that for best results you prepare the model as best you can:

- After removing mould lines, use a small soft brass brush gently all over the model. Be extra gentle if it's a lead model, as these are very soft! I use cheap small brass brushes that are sold on eBay or Amazon for cleaning car sparkplugs.

- After filing and brass brushing, wash the model with hand-hot water, some dishwashing detergent, and an old toothbrush to get any crud off it. Then rinse thoroughly and set aside somewhere warm to air dry.

- From now on, try to avoid handing the model directly - this avoids getting any grease from your skin onto the model. It's best to hold the model by the tab or by pins in it's feet I find, but some people prefer to base the model and then hold it by the base.

- Apply your spray as normal, allow to dry, and then paint as usual

What the brass brushing step does is threefold: it helps to remove any talc (i.e., release agent) off the model's surfaces, it helps to give you smoother surfaces on the bigger areas, and it helps to very lightly "scratch" the surfaces of the metal so that the very first layer of paint has a key to grip onto.

I would also agree with m0nolith that some varnish at the end really helps. I would suggest using a non-yellowing water-based polyurethane varnish personally, and would apply two thinned coats (with maybe a third "neat" coat to any parts that stick out like sword tips, cape corners, spikes, etc). This tough gloss coat is what will help to prevent getting any chips or scuffs, so take your time and make sure it goes on smoothly. Afterwards, use a matte sealer to return the finish to something more natural-looking.

I've been painting metal models for many years with this method, and although I'm generally careful with all my models anyway, I've not yet had one suffer any chips or scuffs. smile.png

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