Hairspray Weathering

[PeteySödes]

For those that use this, I have a a question regarding order of operations. If i wanted to use the same technique for weathering the vehicle markings as the base coat, what's the most effective way?

 

The way i see it, i can either completely finish weathering the base coat, seal it, and repeat the process with another hairspray layer for the markings. This way I feel would be hard to accommodate the spots that should get vehicle markings but are already heavily weathered/damaged. 

 

Or the other way that I hope will work would be to do "base(rust) -> hairspray -> base color -> hairspray -> vehicle markings". Would that "chip" effectively?  This way i essentially start with a clean fresh off Mars look and can go ham in the right order. My only fear is that i'm dealing with an incredibly thin margin of error between base coat and vehicle marking where it would be all or nothing.

 

Im excited to to experiment either way but if anyone had any time saving experience i would appreciate it!

[Gordon Shumway]

I'm not sure I would want a hairspray layer between two layers of base without a sealant. I would personally do base>spray>base>markings>weather. If I understand your end result correctly. That margin of error isn't that big of a problem if you make sure each coat is cured fully and take it slow. I would recommend testing to see if you can get the effect you want with the steps I laid out above. It seems the simpiliest and you won't have to worry down the road if the hair spray decides to do funky stuff.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

If you're using decals/transfers for the vehicle markings it would really difficult to do the hairspray technique on them because the film they're printed on won't act the like the paint and chip properly. What I would suggest is Rust - HS - Base and chip that, then seal the vehicle with a gloss coat. Apply decals, seal gloss coat again, then use a brush or sponge to chip the markings with the base coat and sealing yet again before beginning weathering. Tedious, but that's the same thing I did on my Macharius. 

Edited June 28, 2017 by Brother Chaplain Kage

[Captain_Krash]

Wait so this is a thing? What does the hairspray actually do? I've never heard of this technique before.

 

Krash

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Hairspray and acrylic paints both being water soluble is the important part in this technique that produces real paint chipping. What you do is put down a color of what you want showing through in the base coat. Some people do metal tones, some do rust, some do a primer coat for the vehicle (like the dark red color the Germans primed their tanks with in WWII for example), etc. Then you spray the model with a few thin coats of hairspray, or if you only plan on doing a few small areas, you can decant the hairspray into a container and either brush it on, or use an airbrush to hit the areas you want chipped. The third layer is that base coat color of your model. Once that's dry, you brush water onto a small area, let it sit for 30-60 seconds, and this will allow the water to get under the paint and dissolve the hairspray so you can use a brush, toothpick, etc, to very gently remove the paint and expose the paint chip color underneath. 

 

Here's a pic of the tank I mentioned previously showing off the technique, before I started the weathering. 

 

http://i.imgur.com/i1av7Kn.png

 

It looks a lot better than using a brush or a sponge to paint on the chips because it's more random, and it's actually chipped paint. The important thing with this technique is to put down at least two layers of hairspray, work in small areas at a time, and work quickly. If you try to work an area too large and/or , as I did when I first started on this tank, the water can dissolve much larger areas of the hairspray than you intended and when you come in to chip it, you might remove large sections of paint unintentionally.

 

Some tips:

 

1) Chip the paint in logical areas where something might rub or scrape against the vehicle and remove it for a realistic look. 

2) Always chip on top of the base coat before you do any kind of weathering in case you need to cover up mistakes. Brushes and sponges with the base color are very useful here. 

3) If the water doesn't seem to be getting under the paint to dissolve the hairspray, make a very small scratch with a hobby knife to give it access. 

4) If using a brush to do the chipping with, clean it frequently so little dissolved bits of paint in the bristles don't get rubbed back onto the model, giving a smudged, muddy look. 

5) Once you're done chipping, seal the model with a varnish that is not water soluble to ensure any future painting or weathering doesn't get under the base coat and dissolve the hairspray. 

Edited June 28, 2017 by Brother Chaplain Kage

[Captain_Krash]

Awesome thanks for the explanation!!!

 

Krash

[Jolemai]

Hang on, isn't salt required or is that a different technique?

[BadgersinHills]

Hang on, isn't salt required or is that a different technique?

 

The salt is optional and it makes bigger chips in the paint if I recall correctly. 

[PeteySödes]

Awesome thanks for the tips and info, exactly what i was looking for!

I'm excited to get this rust bucket looking good again

Seriously though this technique is super satisfying, it gives you the finishing a paint job feel combined with restoring something. Even if you made it that way....

Edited June 28, 2017 by FearPeteySodes

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Hang on, isn't salt required or is that a different technique?

 

It's a different technique that people used for similar results before the hairspray thing came along. 

[PeteySödes]

Update: Super borked it, went way to bright (previous picture) on the rust and the effect is not awesome. The actual chipping and scratching worked though and because of the spray layer I can only assume it wil be easy to wash and correct lol.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

You can darken the chip color later with washes when you weather it. In fact, it's generally a good idea to make the chip color brighter than where you want it because of that. 

[PeteySödes]

Good to know, I'll play a bit more before hitting the rest button. Thanks for the input!

[Laughingman]

I thought that companies like MIG, AK interactive and Vallejo  make lines of Chipping medium for this specific application? They were intended for military modelers but I assume they will work just fine for 40k...

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

It's practically the same thing - hairspray that isn't put into an aerosol can. 

[Brother Aiwass]

I thought that companies like MIG, AK interactive and Vallejo  make lines of Chipping medium for this specific application? They were intended for military modelers but I assume they will work just fine for 40k...

Yeah, they do:

 

http://www.migjimenez.com/en/13-chipping-products

 

It's for acrylic paints so it should work with citadel paints too.

[Rob_Everyone]

I use masking fluid from a regular art store, does the same job but I find it easier to rub off.