Jump to content

Recommended Posts

I've had no problem stripping FW resin using a similar product to Green Stuff the MAIN thing I'd look out for is, if you're brushing any of the goop off, be careful with fine details as those are liable to being torn off; the prongs on my Sigismunds Iron Halo were lost that way.

Simple Green is safe for resin. Although if you have a piece that someone coated in thick layers of enamel, lacquer, or house paint, it's not going to get anything off.

 

When I strip my own FW, I use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, either 70% or 91%. It washes the acrylic paint away like water after a few minutes, but leaving the resin inside too long causes the surface to begin to soften into hard rubber, and requires weeks of air drying to re-harden.

Simple Green is safe for resin. Although if you have a piece that someone coated in thick layers of enamel, lacquer, or house paint, it's not going to get anything off.

 

When I strip my own FW, I use isopropyl rubbing alcohol, either 70% or 91%. It washes the acrylic paint away like water after a few minutes, but leaving the resin inside too long causes the surface to begin to soften into hard rubber, and requires weeks of air drying to re-harden.

 

When using simple green on normal models, I usually left them in it for a couple of days, then scrubbed them with a toothbrush, then left them in for another day or two.

 

For isopropyl, do you have a recommended amount of minutes? Should I do simple green first to get most of the paint, then just do isopropyl for the remains?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.