Resin Mould Release Agent Problem

[Arminius_Warbringer]

I just wanted to see if anyone knows any tricks to deal with resin miniatures that won't take paint on it's surface and has a portion where the paint simply beads up on it? I am assuming this is due to the mould release agent but don't know for certain. I thoroughly cleaned them in hot water with a degreaser and soaked them over night, but resoaking and cleaning them again is somewhat of a problem, because most of the miniature is now base coated and only a part of the upper torso, around the neck and shoulders, is a problem. So I fear soaking them may cause the paint to be ruined in the process. I am afraid it will make for a terribly uneven paint job in the end and even potentially cause a loss of detail on the model.

 

Has anyone here ever had this happen to them? I have read about somehow "sealing" it, or using varnish, but don't have details on how to do either. I have never had a problem with mould release before and I go the extra mile in cleaning and soaking the resin parts. So I am surprised by this.

 

I have 4 of 5 resin torsos with this problem and plan on calling FW about it tomorrow. I am sure this happens from time to time and I hear they typically replace the item. So I am confident the problem will be resolved somehow or some way.

 

I would rather salvage the minis if possible. I am hesitant to try separating the torsos from the plastic legs, in order to soak and clean the torso again, because I want to avoid any breakage to the resin parts. I hope someone who has had this problem before will reply with a solution they have used in the past but I would be grateful for any help or ideas. I can post pics too if anyone needs to be able to see the problem too. Thanks!

Edited July 31, 2017 by Arminius_Warbringer

[Kilofix]

Toothbrush that area with just water.

[Demonl]

Very fine grit sandpaper/nail file /sanding stick

[Dantay VI]

Pre wash the resin with lukewarm soapy water and gentle scrub with toothbrush

 

If this doesn't work maybe a spray of matte varnish? It will help the paint grip better

[Charlo]

Aye make sure you use actual primer too first, not just Citadel undercoat.

 

The Primer will stick to the (washed) Resin better and then in turn other paint will stick better to that.

 

Going to try out some Halfords Grey Primer tonight (after a lot of good recommendation) so will post my results :)

[Arminius_Warbringer]

Very fine grit sandpaper/nail file /sanding stick

Yeah, that is a good idea. I have done this in power tools to keep any identification numbers from running off and it worked good. Just a slight abrasion and it can grab. Good idea my friend!

[Arminius_Warbringer]

Aye make sure you use actual primer too first, not just Citadel undercoat.

 

The Primer will stick to the (washed) Resin better and then in turn other paint will stick better to that.

 

Going to try out some Halfords Grey Primer tonight (after a lot of good recommendation) so will post my results :)

I did wash them real good and I used Vallejo primer in my airbrush, but it still did it. I have never had this problem before. Let me know how that Halfords does for you. I am always interested to hear things of that sort.

[Fangbanger]

valejio primer is just awful. I had the same problem a few years back

 

you can varnish beforehand too but yeah all that's been mentioned should work.

 

1. soapy water or neat washing up liquid

2. scrip with tooth brush

3. gloss varnish

4. actual or primer (Halfords grey or Mr.surface primer

 

If no not, forgeworld will replace (I had a typhon that was sweating recently and would of never taken paint)

Edited August 1, 2017 by Fangbanger

[Fangbanger]

on a side note, this is what forgeworld use and often without even washing them:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B006XBTJ5C/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1501572536&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=primer+spray+paint

[m_r_parker]

When it comes to resin, there's only one method that I trust:

1) Wash in hot soapy water (use a toothbrush over everything)

2) Assemble (pinning wherever required)

3) Purity Seal pre-undercoat

4) Basecoat

5) Actual paint

 

Usually you can tell if something is going to be an issue at the washing stage, and if after a couple of scrubs you're still getting a shiny / greasy coating then you need to get in touch with ForgeWorld. In that scenario you've most likely got an issue with the resin itself where it hasn't been mixed correctly. This is fairly rare though, usually a second or third scrub will get rid of the stubborn release agent.

[Charlo]

Helpful Update:

 

Got the Halfords Grey primer on last night, excellent coverage and flat colour all over. Ran my fingers across a few bits to see if there was any potential chipping and it all stayed firm.

 

Left a really nice surface that the next layer of spray should adhere to nicely.

 

Only problem area was the underside of my Dread, but in truth I think I just sprayed a bit too much because of poor lighting!

[Dantay VI]

Do halfords do a black primer?

[Charlo]

Do halfords do a black primer?

Yes, it's what I normally use on all of my smaller models :) but I was advised by my local group that for larger resin models it can still easily peel from resin.

 

The grey is distinctly a primer as such and seems a better base finish for more paint to apply to.

 

I've now gotten some gold spray over the grey and it's got a top finish !

[Bloody Legionnaire]

The best thing I have used for those types of resin bits is a good flat varnish... Matte is actually not as flat as flat varnish is. The flat really helps whatever paint bite similar to how a primer would. I've even used Model Masters Acrylic varnish and it did the trick. That said, if possible I would always use a lacquer or enamel varnish over an acrylic. 

 

If you aren't washing your resin components and scrubbing with a toothbrush that is necessary as well. FW even said to use hot water on those parts to try and get the mould release agent off. If you're still having issues then like I've said a coat of clear flat will absolutely do the trick. 

Edited August 7, 2017 by Bloody Legionnaire

[Arminius_Warbringer]

Thanks everyone for the help and information. FW sent me a new pack of torsos and included the following instructions that are a little more lengthy than the pamphlet included in most orders...

 

I have also added a quick guide that may help with future priming issues.

Please try a the following hobby tip and if the possessed miniature in question still resists your paint then get back in touch so we can sort it out for you.

 

I would not recommend using dettol or strong decreasing agents unless you have a small piece of resin to test first as the chemicals in dettol and other cleaning agents can effect the resin parts in an undesired way.

 

Peel/flake or clean away any paint that will not stick by using an old toothbrush, cocktail stick and cloth.

Clean the parts using hot water rather than warm water, using strong washing up liquid or a product called non-granulated swafega, scrub the parts rinsing off the detergent in hot water and leave to air dry.

using a preferred matt varnish (purity seal) spray a thin coat over the entire model (leaving to dry fully before base coating).

We recommend using a black or white surface primer from a spray can rather than an airbrush or hand painted on the primer.

For best results using the same sealing spray between multiple layers of primer will help seal the miniature fully.

If the model still flakes or still will not hold any paint at all please get back in touch.

[m_r_parker]

It's a good call on the use of dettol - I've used dettol to strip paint, but left the resin rather soft and flexible (and with a chemical smell over a year after).

[Fangbanger]

Bio-strip is crazy good for taking paint off. Better than detol and isopropryal alcohol