How far to go to add "realism" to a Shawdowsword?

[Ovidius Incertus]

I'm contemplating starting a large project, most likely a Shadowsword (unless I make it a Hexblade) that I would like to build a diorama around.  The theme would be Imperium vs. Tau on some winter world.  I've got a Ghostkeel in process and some Death Watch to test out the theme and color schemes already.  The tone is very gritty and dirty.

 

Anywho, the superheavy would be the obvious centerpiece of said diorama.  I love the look of the Shadowsword but want to drive it more to reality, a la WW2.

 

To that end, I'm toying with the notion of adding details to the tank that you'd find on actual tanks, but both would probably involve removing details from the original model.

 

My thoughts are to add either Zimmerit (a huge chore) or non-skid texture to areas the crew would actually use.

 

Zimmerit was a coating added to armor by the Germans to prevent magnetic mines from sticking to the hull of the tank (not that anyone but them used magnetic mines, but whatev....).  I figure magnetic melta charges might be a realistic threat, so a field-expedient Zimmerit might be likely on a superheavy.

Example of Zimmerit:

 

 

The sort of non-skid texture as found on an Abrams hull deck:

 

 

Both would be done with Bondo and both would require some serious additional modelling time.  That said, doing the Zimmerit would probably require stripping all the rivets from the model...a serious task on its own.

 

Other details I want to add are additional track links strapped to the vehicle, some tow cables, etc.  Maybe sandbags could be added too.

 

Any thoughts?

[GrandMagnus]

I don't think it's necesary to do the non.skid details honestly. The minis are on such a small scale that you would not really be able to see it.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Zimmerit on a tank that size would be a nightmare of such proportions that even I wouldn't attempt it. I agree that the non-skid texture wouldn't be necessary at this scale, but some of the other things you're wanting to do I did with my Macharius build. 

[Carlson793]

For zimmerit, apply a thin layer of green stuff (mixed soft rather than firm - forget which part to add more of for that) to a section of the hull, then drag a fine toothed comb over it in short horizontal patterns (drag an inch, lift the comb off the model, drag another inch). Wouldn't even need to worry about removing the rivets, as the GS would cover them.

[Cloud Runner]

Agree totally with Carlson793 - zimmermit is really easy to do, and loads of tank modelers add their own textures - google will find you loads of examples and tutorials.

 

For the non slip, I  have been toying with the idea of a couple of strips of fine checker plate plasti-card in certain areas to give the idea and let the observers mind fill in the blanks as it were.

 

 

For tow cables, a really great way to do it is using picture hanging wire - it coils and loops brilliantly, has the texture of the wire 'rope' and you then just need the end loops, which can come from the plastic version. the real bonus is that it's flexible and can be maneuvered into whatever position you need, adding again to the realism as it wraps around the structure.

[Carlson793]

Counter-intuitive modeling idea for the non-slip surface: primer the model in medium-high humidity (say about 70%-75%). It will add a rough texturing to the surface sprayed. If you just want it in certain areas, mask the surrounding areas, humid-prime the non-slip area, then remove the masking and wait for a low humidity day to primer the whole model.

Something like this:

[Isolia]

Counter-intuitive modeling idea for the non-slip surface: primer the model in medium-high humidity (say about 70%-75%). It will add a rough texturing to the surface sprayed. If you just want it in certain areas, mask the surrounding areas, humid-prime the non-slip area, then remove the masking and wait for a low humidity day to primer the whole model.

Something like this:

I did this for plague marine armour and it looks grainy, as if it were corroded, pretty good effect

[Brother Aiwass]

For realistic modeling of 40k vehicles I would definitely recommend Ultrawere's blog, a great 40k modeler I found on Warseer time ago, that went MIA in 2012. His blog however, is still working and have really good articles on realistic weathering and scratchbuilding.

 

Here's a link for the tow cable, but in my opinion, you should grab a coffee and take a couple of hours to read the whole thing because its freaking awesome.

 

An example of the tow tutorial:

 

 

Cheers.

[Slave to Darkness]

For zimmerit, apply a thin layer of green stuff (mixed soft rather than firm - forget which part to add more of for that) to a section of the hull, then drag a fine toothed comb over it in short horizontal patterns (drag an inch, lift the comb off the model, drag another inch). Wouldn't even need to worry about removing the rivets, as the GS would cover them.

Yea something like this Nit/Flea comb would do, and they cost next to nothing as well. Also if you glue it to a chopstick you get a great back scratcher... 

[NovemberIX]

I'm not sure body filler (aka Bondo) is the best material to use, it either won't adhere  or it'll straight melt the plastic. Nothing to say of the short window in which you can actually manipulate it (for a model sized batch you might get 5 minutes, probably less). I'd recommend another material like greenstuff or milliput.

[Adeptus]

Zimmerit would be an oddly specific thing to add to a tank. Realism would best be done achieved by a consistent holistic approach to weathering the model.

[Ovidius Incertus]

Zimmerit would be an oddly specific thing to add to a tank. Realism would best be done achieved by a consistent holistic approach to weathering the model.

 

Weathering is a given, in my opinion; the other details are not and are what would make the tank unique amongst the numerous other well-painted and weathered versions out there.

 

Plus GW's lack of understanding of tanks (or most things martial, for that matter) breaks my suspension of disbelief, so I'll fill in the gaps for them.