Iwata Eclipse HP-CS - Desperate for help

[Akrim]

Hey folks,
My old Aztek airbrush was a little long in the tooth so after reading the reviews I went and picked up an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS airbrush. Got home and spent several frustrating hours trying to get it to run.

Im using GW Air paint (Administratum Grey) with some Liquitex Airbrush medium. It seems thin enough, airbrush cleaner with go through as will the medium, but adding any paint seems to quickly cause a jam.

Moreover there seems to be a build up of pressure until it blasts out like a firehose.

Ive tried two compressors - a Testors mini blue compressor and a Badger 180-11, are these likely the problem? Do I need a different compressor or regulator device?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

 

-Ak

[Tyberos the Red Wake]

A compressor is a compressor. So long as the compressor you are using works properly and outputs sufficient air pressure PSI/bars, then performance will be identical at least in terms of air flow. I think the Eclipse comes with a 0.35 mm needle which is large enough and is about the largest average size generally used by people airbrushing GW miniatures, with 0.5 mm needles being extremely large, so I don't think the problem is your needle size. What pressure have you been using? How much have you thinned the paints? I bought my first pot of Citadel Air recently, and while it is very thin compared to regular Citadel paints, it is still very thick for an airbrush paint, thicker than other brands like Vallejo Model Air, and you will probably have to thin it a lot and turn up the pressure to shoot it through a 0.35.

 

I'm not familiar with those compressors, but I looked up the Badger one and it might be a compressor problem. That thing not only has a lot of issues, the model itself is a piece of junk with no regulator or moister traps, I would look into either installing those and taping up the connections, or purchasing another compressor outright. Even those beginner's compressors and airbrush kit that includes these features already will do. According to the information online, the Badger 180-11 outputs 20 PSI and can hit a maximum of 48 PSI. My guess is 20 PSI and 0.35 mm combined with thick paint is causing the issue.

 

I don't think the issue is the Eclipse itself, but it might be a possibility too. Have you dropped the airbrush? Roughly handled it? Might have a bent needle causing sputtering. I'm not sure what the issue might be for your situation, but those are the ones I would be thinking of if it were me.

[Akrim]

A compressor is a compressor. So long as the compressor you are using works properly and outputs sufficient air pressure PSI/bars, then performance will be identical at least in terms of air flow. I think the Eclipse comes with a 0.35 mm needle which is large enough and is about the largest average size generally used by people airbrushing GW miniatures, with 0.5 mm needles being extremely large, so I don't think the problem is your needle size. What pressure have you been using? How much have you thinned the paints? I bought my first pot of Citadel Air recently, and while it is very thin compared to regular Citadel paints, it is still very thick for an airbrush paint, thicker than other brands like Vallejo Model Air, and you will probably have to thin it a lot and turn up the pressure to shoot it through a 0.35.

 

I'm not familiar with those compressors, but I looked up the Badger one and it might be a compressor problem. That thing not only has a lot of issues, the model itself is a piece of junk with no regulator or moister traps, I would look into either installing those and taping up the connections, or purchasing another compressor outright. Even those beginner's compressors and airbrush kit that includes these features already will do. According to the information online, the Badger 180-11 outputs 20 PSI and can hit a maximum of 48 PSI. My guess is 20 PSI and 0.35 mm combined with thick paint is causing the issue.

 

I don't think the issue is the Eclipse itself, but it might be a possibility too. Have you dropped the airbrush? Roughly handled it? Might have a bent needle causing sputtering. I'm not sure what the issue might be for your situation, but those are the ones I would be thinking of if it were me.

Thanks for the reply Tyberos.

 

Neither of the compressors have adjustable pressure gauges, but they seem to kick out plenty of air. I figured the dual action would regulate the air output. Admittedly they are aging compressors that have seen a lot of action.

 

Ive definitely handled the airbrush with due care, the needle and parts appear to be in good working order. Im leaning toward this being a paint issue too, I had read that the Liquitex Airbrush Medium was sufficient to achieve proper consistency. Perhaps I need to get some of GWs Air Caste Thinner or the Vallejo thinner to make it work. I previously used Tamiya X20 thinner in my Aztek to good effect but the only retailer I know that carried it closed.

Edited August 22, 2017 by Akrim

[Ovidius Incertus]

I'd try thinning the paint even more as a first recourse.  If the Citadel air colors are anything like Forgeworld's, they're not even close to thin enough to run through an airbrush.  Heck, I even thin my Vallejo Model Air and Game Air paints.

 

As a second, I'd run a more aggressive thinner (I use isopropyl alcohol) through it or pull the tip and soak it in alcohol.  Be very careful though not to overtighten the tip; Iwata tips break absurdly easily in my experience.

 

As a third recourse, I'd just change paints and see if that helps.  Some paints just don't want to airbrush well.  I find it nigh impossible to airbrush certain Vallejo Model Color colors and for whatever reason Vallejo oranges clog my brush more quickly.  Dunno why, maybe pigment size.

[Arkhanist]

A quick google of the aztek shows it uses a 0.4 or 0.5mm nozzle. That's likely quite a bit more forgiving than the HP-CS. Giving it's passing medium/water OK that shows the nozzle & air channel etc is probably fine.

 

I suspect you simply need to thin quite a bit more, especially as GW airbrush paint is relatively thick. Adding a little extra diluted slow-dri (or similar drying retarter) will help with tip dry and clogs as it slows the paint drying inside the airbrush.

 

I use liquitex airbrush medium for diluting brush paint, but I've found Vallejo airbrush thinner works better for me personally in the airbrush, I hear golden is also good.

 

One other thing is that you might be used to spraying at too high a pressure given the lack of a regulator; more pressure lets you use thicker paint if the airbrush can handle it, but if you need to thin a lot more (which it sounds like you might) then it becomes hard to control with higher pressure - the dual-action gives you some control, but only so much. I tend to spray around 20 psi for basecoating, 10-15 for normal work, and lower still for finer detail. I also use a qtip soaked in cleaner to clean the needle tip every few minutes, some tip-dry is just a fact of life with acrylics.

 

If you don't want to waste the money on a proper regulator for crappy compressors, you can bodge it with an in-line flow control. Given the lack of tank and water trap too though, I'd definitely consider getting a better compressor at some point, it will make your life easier with a quality airbrush.

Edited August 22, 2017 by Arkhanist

[Akrim]

A quick google of the aztek shows it uses a 0.4 or 0.5mm nozzle. That's likely quite a bit more forgiving than the HP-CS. Giving it's passing medium/water OK that shows the nozzle & air channel etc is probably fine.

 

I suspect you simply need to thin quite a bit more, especially as GW airbrush paint is relatively thick. Adding a little extra diluted slow-dri (or similar drying retarter) will help with tip dry and clogs as it slows the paint drying inside the airbrush.

 

I use liquitex airbrush medium for diluting brush paint, but I've found Vallejo airbrush thinner works better for me personally in the airbrush, I hear golden is also good.

 

One other thing is that you might be used to spraying at too high a pressure given the lack of a regulator; more pressure lets you use thicker paint if the airbrush can handle it, but if you need to thin a lot more (which it sounds like you might) then it becomes hard to control with higher pressure - the dual-action gives you some control, but only so much. I tend to spray around 20 psi for basecoating, 10-15 for normal work, and lower still for finer detail. I also use a qtip soaked in cleaner to clean the needle tip every few minutes, some tip-dry is just a fact of life with acrylics.

 

If you don't want to waste the money on a proper regulator for crappy compressors, you can bodge it with an in-line flow control. Given the lack of tank and water trap too though, I'd definitely consider getting a better compressor at some point, it will make your life easier with a quality airbrush.

HUZZAH! I got it to work!!! Vallejo Air for the win. I used their thinner and color. I tried it with Vallejo thinner and GW Air but it didnt seem to like it, ill continue the research.

 

Good tip with the Qtip/cleaner.

 

Seems my Testors compressor was the better fit but i do notice a bit of pulsing and bubbling in the cup. Ill have to look into a better one at some point.

 

Very happy to get the airbrush off the ground. Thanks for the help everyone.

 

-Ak

[Prot]

The pulsing and bubbling is your first sign it's clogging. I do a trick where I cover the nozzle, press on the air trigger and it will clear minor clogs.

 

The Badger gives you decent pressure. That thing never let me down. I heard it was free.... amazing friends you must have!