Shading

[Buggane]

I know this might technically sit better in the PCA forum, but it was specifically a question for those of us painting the boys in black so I thought i'd post it here.

 

Fairly straightforward really, does anyone shade their entire RG (rather than just the white or metal parts)? I'm experimenting with blue/black/grey's as a base rather than just straight black (black/dark reaper 50/50 currently winning), so it's not quite as pointless as it initially sounds, but i'd still be interested in everyone else's opinions and experiences. The fact that I haven't had to 'clean up' after the shade suggests to me that i might be wasting my time, especially as the black mix I have still looks plenty dark enough in the recesses....

[Valaas]

Personally I don't shade the black, but use two layers of edge highlights a 'Fat' Eshin grey and then a fine Dawnstone....

 

I'd probably got further if I was painting a competition piece, using as you say a blue/black base, but for my army I just go with the above.

Edited August 31, 2017 by Valaas

[Damo1701]

Personally, I prime black, then Airbrush Abaddon Black, and detail.

 

The way I see it, I'm painting an army here, and the quicker I manage that, the better.

 

I do take more time of I am painting for a competition, however, for gaming, I get the force looking good and cohesive. I don't have the patience to do competition-level painting on an army-wide scale.

[Buggane]

Hmm, I do really like the abaddon/dark reaper look but it is still dark enough that it doesn't need a shade, especially once highlighted but I might paint up my remaining tester with just abaddon and see how it comes out. I wanted dark reaper as my highlight to make them a bit different but that will work with both. Decisions, decisions! 

[NiceGuyAdi]

I use 1:1 Abaddon Black/Dark Reaper as a basecoat as well, then glaze shadows with VMC black (you can use Abaddon but I'm not so keen on the shininess) and glaze highlights with very thin Thunderhawk Blue, as well as edge highlighting in grey (Dawnstone and Mechanicus Standard Grey off the top of my head).

 

It's not quick but I like the look of it. The blue tint is barely noticeable but when I compare it to models that I didn't tint, it looks much nicer.

 

I can't link to it on the phone but there's an example of how it looks in post #68 in the plog linked in my sig.

[duz_]

Hrmmm may have to steal some of these ideas for when I start my Primaris squads... :D

[Buggane]

I use 1:1 Abaddon Black/Dark Reaper as a basecoat as well, then glaze shadows with VMC black (you can use Abaddon but I'm not so keen on the shininess) and glaze highlights with very thin Thunderhawk Blue, as well as edge highlighting in grey (Dawnstone and Mechanicus Standard Grey off the top of my head).

 

It's not quick but I like the look of it. The blue tint is barely noticeable but when I compare it to models that I didn't tint, it looks much nicer.

 

I can't link to it on the phone but there's an example of how it looks in post #68 in the plog linked in my sig.

Glaze shadows?! What is this....as usual massive voodoo has the answer. I wondered how you'd got that blend-y effect.

 

I'll be honest, it was Adi that inspired me to try to the Abaddon/Dark Reaper, and apatheticfish on youtube who was using dark reaper/thunderhawk blue to highlight some iron hands which looked awesome. I'm sure a combination of the two will be good. 

Edited August 31, 2017 by Buggane

[NiceGuyAdi]

Yep check good ol' Massive Voodoo for glazing. The good thing about glazing is that you can substitute mastery with a brush (which I have far from achieved) with patience by putting down tons of very thin layers to build a gradient. Thinning with only water is good, so you're not getting medium etc drying on the model and clogging up the detail.

[SkimaskMohawk]

I use a blue black base coat, and then add some white for a dark grey for two layers. Highlight with eshin grey Edited August 31, 2017 by SkimaskMohawk

[thewarriorhunter]

I use Vallejo colors.

 

I do shade all of my units. I prime black, then mix 50/50 black/black/grey. Usually two coats of Nuln Oil has brought it down to a really nice black that has depth without a lot of work from me. I still edge highlight selectively but I think the wash really helps to add depth to a very boring color.

[Jochteas]

I hate to ask this, but can people here post some photos for comparison? All these techniques sound legit but I really need to see it to make a decision about my models.

[SkimaskMohawk]

[thewarriorhunter]

My very first mini I ever painted:

 

 

And here's two from my Cataphractii. The first was inside with my phone, the second was outside with a DSLR on auto. Seeing it in two different types of light might help.

 

Inside:

 

 

Outside:

 

[Buggane]

Cheers guys. Gotta love the dark fury models and a bit of Mark IV. So i love both of those schemes. I'm not happy with my blue highlights on the practice ones, it all went a bit tron. Time to strip those boys back down and try these two methods as well as the straight black/dark reaper - eshin grey - dawnstone.

 

Who would have thought finding the right black was so hard....

For those that do shade, do you clean up afterwards, or is it not necessary given the dark colour you are shading onto

Edited September 9, 2017 by Buggane

[ShinyRhino]

I use a Reaper paint called Grey Liner for my main armor color, shade with Nuln Oil, then two levels of grey edge highlights.

[Buggane]

Do you pin shade or do the whole thing? I imagine part of the function of it is to bring the colour back down. If so does that mean you don't need to clean up afterwards as you would with a lighter colour

[thewarriorhunter]

Not sure what you mean but for my models I do the base color with the black/dark grey mix. I then shade the entire model with Nuln Oil. There's really no need for cleanup unless you get a lighter color where it shouldn't be during highlighting/detail work. In that case I usually get black and lightly apply a couple coats to remove the blemish. Usually that blends well enough that no one would ever notice, and after several models even I have trouble remembering where the mess up was.

[Buggane]

Sorry, i meant that you often see people 'clean up' after they've applied a shade to the whole model, going back over the raised areas they don't want to have shade on with the original layer or base. You answered my question anyway as it is clearly not something to worry about with a black model!

[thewarriorhunter]

Ah, I understand now. I think you're referring to edge highlighting, which is something I do. It will help to define the shape and angles of your model. I don't highlight every edge though. As I look at the model I tend to highlight edges that face up or to my left, which is where the 'light' comes from in my mind. Some people highlight every edge to define it all. Personally I don't have the patience for that so I do what I do and justify it as 'light source' edge highlighting 

[SkimaskMohawk]

I think he's talking about selectively washing say the crevasses of power Armour thighs instead of washing the entire section and then re establishing the base colour on the areas you didnt want shaded

[Buggane]

Yes sorry I wasn't clear skimask has it, basically do you just chuck the wash on and then move on to your highlighting, or do you go and paint the layer back on areas that wouldn't be in shadow, like say the top of the head and shoulder pads

[NiceGuyAdi]

I had bad experiences with slapping Nuln Oil all over a marine to shade it. With all the smooth panels on them, if you're not very careful you end up with unsightly 'water stain' marks.

 

I'd suggest putting the shading in the recesses with a bit more control, then cleaning up the edges where it washes over as needed.

[Buggane]

Yes that is what I was worried about, I am quite happy with my black dark reaper combo so just shaded the recesses and could see water marks which needed tidying up. Still testing ideas so will try heavier shading when I have more models..