abovdameta Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Salutations all, I had put together a gw plastic model using zap a gap c+ but now i need to make an adjustment. Anyone know a way to weaken the bond between gw plastic and zap a gap glue? I tried Zep Commerical Industrial Purple but sadly it did not weaken the bond or make it easier to redo the model. Any suggestions/solutions welcome. stay unwavering, Abovdameta Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grim Dog Studios Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 I've never tried it myself but I have heard that placing the model in the fridge/freezer for a while will make the superglue brittle and allows you to easily snap the bond between the two pieces that you would like separating. Kassill and Kierdale 2 Back to top Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4891910 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arkhanist Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 (edited) I've found superglue becoming very weak for plastic models I've stripped with biostrip 20 (some literally fall apart) but I've not tried using it just for that purpose. In the past, I've 1) used a piercing saw to literally cut through the joint (piercing saw has a very fine blade) with the model in a bench vice 2) where joint is overlapped, stick model in a freezer for an hour, then use needle nose pliers inserted near the joint and open the pliers to push the parts apart. The last method often works, but you still risk damaging the pieces - but less than just using pliers to yank the thing apart. Edited September 21, 2017 by Arkhanist Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4891956 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Major_Gilbear Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 It is possible to buy a superglue release gel (I always keep a bottle handy, as I'm ashamed to admit that I have glued my fingers together on more than one occasion... ). From what I can tell on the label, it contains some acetone and ethanol/methanol, which I mention because applying lots of it to visible parts of a model will obviously damage it (if it's plastic). However, if you apply it carefully and only let it sit for a short time, you should be able to separate the parts again (or at least weaken the glue enough to break the joint). If it's a metal model, put a good amount on and let it sit before trying to work the parts free. I've also used this (sparingly!) to release parts of an old FW model that had been superglued together for a friend with no adverse issues. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4891965 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toomanyprojects Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Cyanoacrylate superglue forms a somewhat brittle and inflexible bond. try gently moving the parts that you want to separate. Not enough to deform them, but enough to create stress fractures in the glue. It will take a while, but eventually these cracks should go all the way through. Be gentle though, this is not a quick process Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4891969 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Semper Fortis Posted September 22, 2017 Share Posted September 22, 2017 I've had great luck with putting minis in the freezer for a couple of hours and then immediately, and gently, twisting the part off. Repeat if unsuccessful. It has worked every time with metal minis and most of the time with plastic. I haven't used zap a gap brand, so your mileage may vary. CA glue is strongest resisting a straight pulling force. I've seen ads where a pickup truck was suspended by a superglue bond. It's a great deal less resistant to shearing force. The trick is to apply enough shearing force or twist to break the bond but not enough to deform or break the part. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4892557 Share on other sites More sharing options...
duz_ Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 Dettol also does a good job if you dont mind the smell. ;) Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4894227 Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiceGuyAdi Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 I'll second the Dettol Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4894280 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kassill Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 I've done the freezer method before. For me it was just trying to remove arms, so after I popped them out of the freezer, I took my clippers and used the tip to just slip under the arm and press gently down, causing the tip to lift the arm and they popped right off without any issue. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4894345 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloody Legionnaire Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 apparently acetone is another chemical that causes super glue to break down and dissolve. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4894564 Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stoic Raptor Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 Yes, but it also causes plastic to dissolve - so be careful. Link to comment https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/339643-help-on-weakening-super-glue/#findComment-4894646 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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