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Salutations all,

 

I had put together a gw plastic model using zap a gap c+ but now i need to make an adjustment. Anyone know a way to weaken the bond between gw plastic and zap a gap glue? I tried Zep Commerical Industrial Purple but sadly it did not weaken the bond or make it easier to redo the model. Any suggestions/solutions welcome.

 

stay unwavering,

 

Abovdameta

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I've never tried it myself but I have heard that placing the model in the fridge/freezer for a while will make the superglue brittle and allows you to easily snap the bond between the two pieces that you would like separating.

I've found superglue becoming very weak for plastic models I've stripped with biostrip 20 (some literally fall apart) but I've not tried using it just for that purpose. In the past, I've

1) used a piercing saw to literally cut through the joint (piercing saw has a very fine blade) with the model in a bench vice

2) where joint is overlapped, stick model in a freezer for an hour, then use needle nose pliers inserted near the joint and open the pliers to push the parts apart.

 

The last method often works, but you still risk damaging the pieces - but less than just using pliers to yank the thing apart.

Edited by Arkhanist

It is possible to buy a superglue release gel (I always keep a bottle handy, as I'm ashamed to admit that I have glued my fingers together on more than one occasion... :blush.: ).

 

From what I can tell on the label, it contains some acetone and ethanol/methanol, which I mention because applying lots of it to visible parts of a model will obviously damage it (if it's plastic). However, if you apply it carefully and only let it sit for a short time, you should be able to separate the parts again (or at least weaken the glue enough to break the joint). If it's a metal model, put a good amount on and let it sit before trying to work the parts free.

 

I've also used this (sparingly!) to release parts of an old FW model that had been superglued together for a friend with no adverse issues.

Cyanoacrylate superglue forms a somewhat brittle and inflexible bond. try gently moving the parts that you want to separate. Not enough to deform them, but enough to create stress fractures in the glue. It will take a while, but eventually these cracks should go all the way through.

 

Be gentle though, this is not a quick process 

I've had great luck with putting minis in the freezer for a couple of hours and then immediately, and gently, twisting the part off. Repeat if unsuccessful. It has worked every time with metal minis and most of the time with plastic. I haven't used zap a gap brand, so your mileage may vary.

 

CA glue is strongest resisting a straight pulling force. I've seen ads where a pickup truck was suspended by a superglue bond. It's a great deal less resistant to shearing force. The trick is to apply enough shearing force or twist to break the bond but not enough to deform or break the part.

I've done the freezer method before. For me it was just trying to remove arms, so after I popped them out of the freezer, I took my clippers and used the tip to just slip under the arm and press gently down, causing the tip to lift the arm and they popped right off without any issue. 

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