Affixing Pin Models to Finished Bases

[Mileposter]

I am almost to the point of building the bases for the first unit in my Necron Project, and part of the challenge for myself is to deliberately tackle techniques I have not used before. In this case that is completely building the bases before I apply the models - previously I had textured and painted the bases after the models were on. Here I'll be constructing unique bases for each model. I paint these models using the pin-to-cork technique, shown in the thread.

 

So, since I've never used the pin technique, I've never had to solve this problem - securing a model onto the base - and I want to figure things out before I actually get to that point. For models with two feet firmly planted, there's two pins, and that seems self explanatory since I've seen that the technique is to drill a tiny hole and put the pins through. The only tutorial I've seen on the subject suggests just bending the pin at the end to keep things on. But for single-pin models, how does one keep the model from spinning around?

 

The bases I'm building are intended to be entirely covered in GW's grass flock, as the imagery is supposed to be rolling grassy hills. This leads me to believe, both because it will be painted and because of the flock, that adding glue (of any kind) to the bottom of the model's feet would be a bad idea. Glue under the base to hold the pin down seems like too little. Am I totally off my rocker with either of these thoughts?

 

Help me, B&C. You're my only hope!

[thewarriorhunter]

I think you're making this harder than it needs to be. My bases have a similar theme. I actually apply cork to my bases and then layer everything up on them:

 

 

If you have a model with only one pin drill into the base where you want the pin to go. Apply a very small amount of glue to the pin and bottom of the foot and insert it into the base. If you want you could apply some more glue to the underside of the base. I have an entire assault squad pinned this way with only one foot on the base and I've had zero spinning issues.

 

I also build and base separately so we're in the same situation with how we build.

 

I don't have any pictures of the squad that I can share right now but when I get home I can snap a couple to show you.

[Mileposter]

I recall seeing these bases. Think I was poking around your WIP thread not too long ago - it was one of the few that had really clear pictures of the pin-to-cork painting method. What wire did you use? I just started using paperclips. >.>;

 

I'm eager to see an up close pic of the glued model, thank you for that. Suppose that'll also help me figure how things should interact with the flock.

[Major_Gilbear]

I fill the underside of my bases with putty (Milliput), so that when I drill through for the pins there is more "depth" to the base to grip the pin and form a strong bond. The little extra weight also stops models tipping over on uneven surfaces too.

 

For models with one point of contact, I sometimes use a double pin (i.e., two side-by side to each other) which helps to strengthen the joint a *lot*.

 

Another thing worth mentioning; I rough up the pin with a file before I glue it into the model or the base. The texture helps to bind the pin and glue tightly into the base. For this, I use brass pins, as steel paper-clips are too hard to work in this manner (and the brass is much kinder to your clippers anyway).

 

Final comment on pinning; up to a point, longer pins are *always* better and stronger than short ones. For attaching a trooper model to a base, I usually allow for at least a 20mm long pin - the strength of the bond is in the surface area of the joint, and longer (textured) pins have the biggest/best surface area for the glued joint.

 

Hope that helps, but feel free to ask if you have more questions. ;)

[Mileposter]

I fill the underside of my bases with putty (Milliput), so that when I drill through for the pins there is more "depth" to the base to grip the pin and form a strong bond. The little extra weight also stops models tipping over on uneven surfaces too.

Hrm! This seems a nifty idea. Given your use of Milliput, I assume Green Stuff would work in a similar fashion? I have an abundance of the stuff already.

 

For models with one point of contact, I sometimes use a double pin (i.e., two side-by side to each other) which helps to strengthen the joint a *lot*.

My trouble with this idea is that they are Necrons and have stupidly thin ankles. I fear double-pins might be too wide for models such as warriors.

 

Another thing worth mentioning; I rough up the pin with a file before I glue it into the model or the base. The texture helps to bind the pin and glue tightly into the base. For this, I use brass pins, as steel paper-clips are too hard to work in this manner (and the brass is much kinder to your clippers anyway).

Awesome info, that makes a lot of sense. I'll try some brass on one of my upcoming units.

[thewarriorhunter]

milliput is a great idea. I've glued extra pieces of sprue on the underside where I know a pin will be. That's a great alternative in the event that you don't have putty lying around.

[Arkhanist]

 

I fill the underside of my bases with putty (Milliput), so that when I drill through for the pins there is more "depth" to the base to grip the pin and form a strong bond. The little extra weight also stops models tipping over on uneven surfaces too.

Hrm! This seems a nifty idea. Given your use of Milliput, I assume Green Stuff would work in a similar fashion? I have an abundance of the stuff already.

 

 

It does, mostly. Milliput is cheaper (especially the coarser grades) and dries harder. Green stuff isn't ideal for drilling as its got a bit of give to it once set - but for bulk filling underside a base, and using superglue to hold the pin is fine - particularly if the green stuff is getting on a bit. I've done it myself.

 

One trick is you can use more blue in the green stuff mix say, 60/40. The higher ratio of hardener means it will have less flex once set, and set faster.

Edited September 21, 2017 by Arkhanist

[thewarriorhunter]

Another benefit of the extra material under the base is it will weigh it down, so models won't tip over as easily.

[Imren]

Have a look at this post I made a while ago:

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/336236-basing-before-or-after/?p=4810274

[Major_Gilbear]

I use Milliput because it is significantly cheaper than GS, and because it cures much harder (so you can drill and sand it nicely). Also, as much GS as you have, you would be astonished at how fast you get through putty when you fill the undersides of bases!

For pinning Necron legs, I would use a 1.0mm drill bit (cobalt fully ground bit - avoid rolled bits like the plague!) and 0.81mm brass rod. The rod needs to be a touch smaller than the hole, so there's room for the glue. I would also find out what sizes of brass you can get *before* you buy drill bits to suit - there are fewer sizes/gauges of rod than there are bit sizes available.

Even though they are very thin, using a 1mm drill bit and a small hand-held manual pin vice it is very simple to consistently get a pin through the heel of the foot, past the ankle and well into the calf. The plastic easy to drill, and you just have to have a little patience and care to get the hole in the right place.

After drilling your holes in the feet, I recommend using a 2.5mm drill bit to bevel the edge of the hole - just roll the drill bit lightly with your fingers. What this does is is provide "room" for any glue that comes out of the hole when gluing, and which will later prevent you from getting a fully-flush contact with the base. I also recommend doing the same with the base for the same reason. This will give you the best fit between the parts, and avoid any gaps under the feet.

Once the pins are in the model, it is possible to bend them gently. This is particularly useful if you are pinning a model that's in a running pose and only has a small contact with the base. What you do here is drill along the foot at a shallow angle, then glue the pin in; once dry, bend the exposed end of the pin gently and carefully so that it's perpendicular to the contact point/base surface. Below is an example of what I mean by this:

Edited September 21, 2017 by Major_Gilbear
Spelling! :(

[thewarriorhunter]

Here's my assault squad sgt that was easily at hand:

 

 

 

[Semper Fortis]

I use about the same process as Major_Gilbear. Maybe we read it in the same antique White Dwarf. :) The only thing I do differently is to leave the end of the pin coming through the base slightly longer than the depth of the base. Once the glue has dried I bend the end of the pin into a hook. Then I add the milliput so that the hook is embedded. Once cured it will NOT spin (or twist or even think about moving). Good luck!

[Major_Gilbear]

@ Semper Fortis:

 

I think I first came across pinning in WD, probably in a Mike McVey conversion article. That was... 25 years ago though?

 

The idea of bending the pins under the base I found later somewhere online, during the earlier days of the internet (so about 20 years ago?). At the time, I thought is was a great idea. However, after trying it a few times, I quickly realised that I don't really like doing messy jobs like puttying and sanding on models that are otherwise fully finished, and that using lots of superglue to hold the bent pins under the base risked serious fogging around the base and feet - inevitably I always seem to mange to spoil the finished paintjob. That's where I came up with the idea of filling the bases first, then pinning through; that way the models and bases are all finished and painted separately before they are joined. I also leave the pins a bit long, test-fit through the base, and trim the pins to suit before glueing them in.

 

With respect to using a double pin in one foot: you can use two smaller pins in one slightly bigger hole, or drill two separate holes and use slightly thinner wire. As long as at least one wire adequately supports the model, the other one can be a smaller/shorter pin if you like. The reason for using the double pin is to prevent the joint from loosening or "spinning" the model on the base.

[Mileposter]

Thank you folks for the answers and additional tips - it's going to be a little while before I'm at the basing bit (have to actually build the bases before you can put something on them!), but when I am done I promise to respond with what I used, what worked, and what didn't for me.

 

Thanks again.