Inkjet printing or Laser printing decals?

[Essexkiwi]

Has anyone had experience of printing water slide decals on a laser printer instead of inkjet? 

 

All of the articles I've found involve steps relating to inkjet printing - allow time to dry, spray varnish etc.  But as laser printing is superior in quality and you can buy different decal paper types for both inkjet and laser printers it must be do-able.

 

Has anyone used laser printing for decals? I'm keen to know if there are any drawbacks or disadvantages other than cost compared to inkjet.

 

[Spiky Norman]

I've done Inkjet printing, and afterwards giving it a thin (brush)coat of MicroFilm from the MicroScale line.

It works okay. So if you DO end up using an inkjet, I can recommend it.

 

Though as you also mention, from what I've read, you can avoid the MicroFilm step by using a laser printer, and if that's true, I would absolutely recommend using a laser printer instead of an inkjet.

I've gotten a laser printer decal sheet that I'm planning to print on soon, and I hope it works as well as advertised. But I'd certainly be interested in hearing other peoples experiences with it.

[Carlson793]

I only use laser printer.

 

Overall, you're going to get better results from a laser printer. Unlike ink, toner doesn't bleed, so your images will be sharper and more defined. 

 

There are only three important differences between inkjet decal printing and laser printer:

 

1) Different Paper - if you try to use inkjet paper in a laser printer, it will usually melt the decal medium on the paper. Conversely, using an inkjet printer with laser decal paper will result in images that will not set and will run when they hit the water. Make sure to get the appropriate paper for your printer type.

 

2) Sealing - Decal sheets printed with a laser printer do not need a sealing coat. The fuser in the printer fuses the toner to the paper, and the decals are pretty much ready to go straight out of the printer (though I'd recommend letting them sit for a few minutes before using - give it enough time to gather and arrange all your decal application supplies). (By the way, you CAN seal a laser printed sheet, but it's an unnecessary step.)

 

3) Cool Down - Never laser print more than three decal sheets at once. Even though the paper is designed to handle the heat of the laser printing process, the printer can still heat up enough to melt the sheets if you run too many jobs at once. Print two or three, wait five to ten minutes, print the next two or three.

 

 

One last thing. Not only is laser vs inkjet decal paper, there's also clear vs white (with different applications for each). If you're going to have multiple decal sheet types around (for different printers types or opacities), turn each set of sheets over as soon as you receive them and mark the type in a corner. It'll save you wasting a sheet and possibly damaging your printer. For example, I write a small 'C' in a back corner of my clear sheets; a small 'W' on the white sheets. For different printers, put either an 'L' or an 'I'.

Edited September 22, 2017 by Carlson793

[old git]

Laser, without a doubt.

[NiceGuyAdi]

Inkjet is absolutely doable and I'm pleased with the results I get from mine. Inkjet printers and ink are also (correct me if I'm wrong) more cost effective.

 

But if you've easy access to a laser printer I'm sure you'll find it much less of a faff.

[Kisada]

Just printed some custom decals .... tried on my inkjet ... junk.

 

Got some laser decal paper and had it printed ... much better ... still needs sealing (at least that's what my paper's instructions said).  

 

There is one thing you should know I was using clear decal paper ... and on a dark background the colors were not bright enough.

[Buggane]

As a completely noob at this my inkjet decals came out ok but I feel like i might have over varnished them. They ended up quite thick and insanely shiny...

[Carlson793]

As a completely noob at this my inkjet decals came out ok but I feel like i might have over varnished them. They ended up quite thick and insanely shiny...

 

Best way to compensate for both those issues is in application.

1. Apply a clear gloss coat to the area of the model the decal is going on. Even if it's just a small logo, gloss coat the entire panel (provides a consistent final result).
2. Apply you decal, including your preferred decal solvent so it really adheres to and follows the contours of your model.
3. Once it's all dry, brush apply one or two clear gloss coats over the decal. This second gloss coat will collect a bit around the edges of the decal and help physically blend it into the background.
4. Clear matte coat to knock off the shine of the gloss coat. 

[Buggane]

 

As a completely noob at this my inkjet decals came out ok but I feel like i might have over varnished them. They ended up quite thick and insanely shiny...

 

Best way to compensate for both those issues is in application.

1. Apply a clear gloss coat to the area of the model the decal is going on. Even if it's just a small logo, gloss coat the entire panel (provides a consistent final result).
2. Apply you decal, including your preferred decal solvent so it really adheres to and follows the contours of your model.
3. Once it's all dry, brush apply one or two clear gloss coats over the decal. This second gloss coat will collect a bit around the edges of the decal and help physically blend it into the background.
4. Clear matte coat to knock off the shine of the gloss coat. 

 

 

Can anyone recommend a decent paintable matt and gloss coat in the UK? Or does something from the art shop do the job fine?

[Kisada]

Airbrush or rattle can?

[Major_Gilbear]

 

 

As a completely noob at this my inkjet decals came out ok but I feel like i might have over varnished them. They ended up quite thick and insanely shiny...

 

Best way to compensate for both those issues is in application.

1. Apply a clear gloss coat to the area of the model the decal is going on. Even if it's just a small logo, gloss coat the entire panel (provides a consistent final result).
2. Apply you decal, including your preferred decal solvent so it really adheres to and follows the contours of your model.
3. Once it's all dry, brush apply one or two clear gloss coats over the decal. This second gloss coat will collect a bit around the edges of the decal and help physically blend it into the background.
4. Clear matte coat to knock off the shine of the gloss coat. 

 

 

Can anyone recommend a decent paintable matt and gloss coat in the UK? Or does something from the art shop do the job fine?

 

 

 

It's better to use a spray for two main  reasons:

 

1) Dries *much* faster (i.e., before it causes the decals to run or lift)

 

2) You can apply a *much* thinner coat (so it doesn't crack when you flex/apply the decals, or look thick/lumpy after application)

 

 

You can of course try using an airbrush to apply a "brush-on" type varnish, but I don't see huge benefits over using a decent-quality rattlecan sealer.

 

 

Edit:

 

If you mean to follow Carlson's advice, I would use the Vallejo acrylic varnishes if you're starting out. Cheap, water-based, easy to use, and you get a decent result.

 

However, if you are serious about varnishing models in general, then I would get a brush-on water-based non-yellowing UV-resistant polyurethane gloss varnish, and then use something like Testor's Dullcote spray afterwards to get an ultra-flat finish at the end. This combination gives you the best of both worlds - tough protection, and the flattest finish.

Edited September 29, 2017 by Major_Gilbear

[Arkhanist]

Lacquer varnishes (such as dullcote) are even tougher than water-based polyurethane, though a bit more toxic. This is more important if used in large quantities (such as furniture!) but generally with any sprayed varnish you should use in a well-ventilated area with a mask (garages work well!) or outside if humidity/temperature permits (spray varnishes can give bad results in too humid or cold/hot air)

 

The only difference between a matt and a gloss coat of the same varnish is one has a matting agent such as talc or silica added; gloss is not inherently any tougher, though it's a persistant myth. Two thin coats are better than one thick coat though. You'd get just as good result with two thin coats of a strong matt varnish as doing a gloss coat then a matt coat.

 

Different types of varnish can vary from each other of course; oil based polyurethane and shellac both add a yellow tint; water-based polyurethane is stronger than acrylic varnish (but takes longer to dry fully hard), etc etc.

 

That all said, decals are one reason you do want to do a separate gloss coat first. Varnish over your finished paint job will protect it from the decal solvents, and gloss provides the smoothest finish for the decal to mold to - as carlson's application method takes advantage of. 

 

As a variant of carlson's method;

• Do a gloss coat on the model and let fully dry.
• Cut round the transfer and soak off the backing paper in a small dish of water.
• Brush some micro-set on the model where the decal is to go.
• Immediately transfer the decal to the model; the micro-set will allow you to move the decal into position. Apply some more micro-set over the top. It likely won't sit entirely flat on a curved surface, that's OK. Use a cotton bud or paper towel damped in micro-set to flatten the transfer as best you can - try to avoid sharp creases.
• Give the micro-set 10 minutes or so to dry. Then brush over micro-sol. This will soften the decal and allow it to mold itself to the model and blend in the edges. It will wrinkle up - this is normal and should go away.
• Be very careful touching the decal after micro-sol, as it will be very soft, ideally leave it alone altogether.
• Leave it for several hours - up to 24 if you can. If you still have any bubbles or wrinkles, prick them with a pin then re-do the micro-sol step.
• Apply usual varnish finish.

I've switched to airbrushing vallejo airbrush premium varnishes these days. Previously, I would have used army painter anti-shine either brushed on or can sprayed for the final coat. I've not used testors dullcote as it's hard to get in the UK, and the EU variant is supposedly not as good (the US version was too toxic to import!)

Edited October 1, 2017 by Arkhanist

[Buggane]

Thanks all this is very helpful