To avoid chipping?

[GrandMagnus]

Hey guys, I've had some trouble with the paint chipping off my miniatures and I've heard you can use lahmia medium to protect them. I was wondering if I could get any tips on using it, cause I've tried matt varnish before and it just left a grey film over th emini and I would like to avoid that.

 

 

[Todosi]

Steps to avoid chipping and paint flaking;

1. Wash models before priming

2. Prime your models with a good spray or airbrush primer

3. Seal your models with a good varnish.  For metals I use a coat of gloss, let it dry, then a coat of Testor's Dullcote.

 

If you ended up with a gray film, that is likely user error in that you sprayed from too far away and the varnish dried on it's way to the model.  Spray a bit closer and use very light coats.  It's better to do several light coats than one heavy one.

[Kastor Krieg]

Steps to avoid chipping and paint flaking;

1. Wash models before priming

2. Prime your models with a good spray or airbrush primer

3. Seal your models with a good varnish.  For metals I use a coat of gloss, let it dry, then a coat of Testor's Dullcote.

 

If you ended up with a gray film, that is likely user error in that you sprayed from too far away and the varnish dried on it's way to the model.  Spray a bit closer and use very light coats.  It's better to do several light coats than one heavy one.

For #2 do NOT get conned into thinking what GW or your hardware store sells is a primer. Most of these rattlecans are just paint.

[GrandMagnus]

 

Steps to avoid chipping and paint flaking;

1. Wash models before priming

2. Prime your models with a good spray or airbrush primer

3. Seal your models with a good varnish.  For metals I use a coat of gloss, let it dry, then a coat of Testor's Dullcote.

 

If you ended up with a gray film, that is likely user error in that you sprayed from too far away and the varnish dried on it's way to the model.  Spray a bit closer and use very light coats.  It's better to do several light coats than one heavy one.

For #2 do NOT get conned into thinking what GW or your hardware store sells is a primer. Most of these rattlecans are just paint.

 

Any good suggestions for a primer? In the EU.

 

I actually never washed the models before priming, good to know.

[Kastor Krieg]

Airbrush and Vallejo Surface Primer. Gunze paste. Not a rattlecan. Always let it cure for 24h.

[Machine God]

Specialist Car garage shops, Halfords etc.

[Major_Gilbear]

 

Steps to avoid chipping and paint flaking;

1. Wash models before priming

2. Prime your models with a good spray or airbrush primer

3. Seal your models with a good varnish.  For metals I use a coat of gloss, let it dry, then a coat of Testor's Dullcote.

 

If you ended up with a gray film, that is likely user error in that you sprayed from too far away and the varnish dried on it's way to the model.  Spray a bit closer and use very light coats.  It's better to do several light coats than one heavy one.

For #2 do NOT get conned into thinking what GW or your hardware store sells is a primer. Most of these rattlecans are just paint.

 

 

Specialist Car garage shops, Halfords etc.

 

Aaand my work here is done; good job folks, this is exactly my advice!

[DaisyDuke]

I've mainly had this problem with old metals, I've found if you varnish after your base coat colour. I use gloss for this. All further paint will adhere to the model without rubbing off. It also will help with the flow of washes.

Then when I'm finished I give it another thin coat of satin or mat depending on the finish I'm after. I use Vallejo varnish through my airbrush.

[Bung]

Strangly the RC Modellers i know switched to GW Chaos Black Primer for the plastic parts of their models, cause it got a better hold than other stuff.

Another alternative would be Mr. Hobby Surfacer 1200 with an airbrush, as it fills small scratches and is sandable.

[Tyberos the Red Wake]

 

 

Steps to avoid chipping and paint flaking;

1. Wash models before priming

2. Prime your models with a good spray or airbrush primer

3. Seal your models with a good varnish.  For metals I use a coat of gloss, let it dry, then a coat of Testor's Dullcote.

 

If you ended up with a gray film, that is likely user error in that you sprayed from too far away and the varnish dried on it's way to the model.  Spray a bit closer and use very light coats.  It's better to do several light coats than one heavy one.

For #2 do NOT get conned into thinking what GW or your hardware store sells is a primer. Most of these rattlecans are just paint.

 

Any good suggestions for a primer? In the EU.

 

I actually never washed the models before priming, good to know.

 

 

There are some common brands that people enjoy and swear by, such as Halfords, but honestly, just look at the can. If it's a primer, it'll say primer right on the can. It's something the companies WANT to advertise and it's a desirable quality you WANT to be putting on the label. If a spray can doesn't say primer on it, chances are it's not really a primer. Coincidentally, look what word the GW sprays lack on their label.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

I buy the $1 cans of black and white Wal-Mart brand rattlecans to prime my models with and never had much of an issue. In fact, the finish is about the same as the $10 cans of Duplicolor Automotive Primer I used to buy. 

[Major_Gilbear]

With rattlecan sprays, a few things to note:

 

1) Automotive primers are usually best, even if you're priming plastic figures. They are designed to give a good smooth finish, even if spraying outdoors in less than perfect conditions. They also usually contain more solvent than hobby primers do, and that means not only more consistency in application, but also that it etches the surfaces of and bonds to materials like resin and primer much more readily. The higher solvent content does mean it takes a bit longer for a primed model to be fully cured (I usually leave them models overnight), but it does also mean that the primer "shrinks" more tightly to the model as it dries and obscures details less.

 

2) You don't have to cover every tiny spot with primer - it's main purpose is to help paint stick, not to colour a model. Controversial, I know, but it's also true. Also along this line of thinking, it's better to do two coats with a day's cure in between than one heavier coat in one go. Yes, it takes longer and can be frustrating if you're raring to get into painting, but you *will* get a better result every time.

 

3) GW has used a variety of suppliers for its spray primers over the years. Whilst I'm sure that many GW hobby supplies have been shipped from country-to-country on many occasions, it is also very common to have a main supplier in each "area" that GW sells in for certain items. The weights, volume, and pressurised contents of spray paints all affect shipping and handling charges between countries, and the actual composition of sprays is often formulated slightly differently from area to area to get the best results in the prevailing climate of the places they are marketed at. This is one key reason why GW spray paints have had such a mixed reception over the years and across the world.

 

 

I buy the $1 cans of black and white Wal-Mart brand rattlecans to prime my models with and never had much of an issue. In fact, the finish is about the same as the $10 cans of Duplicolor Automotive Primer I used to buy. 

 

I've heard this is also the case with many other budget-brand sprays too. Of course, Wal-Mart doesn't make the sprays itself; it still has to get a supplier/manufacturer of its own, and I suspect that such spray paint is probably just re-branded from a more prestigious brand name/manufacturer.

 

For the sake of £1/$1 and a few test minis though, I'd certainly suggest it's worth a go at least. :)

[GrandMagnus]

All great suggestions.  I went to my local paint/art store and browsed a bit, asked around and I got two spray cans (white and black matt) from the brand Fly Color. That's what the man in the store suggested after explaining what I needed. I'll try it out, hopefully it will be what I'm looking for.

 

I'm enjoying all the good advice you are giving, thanks guys.

[Tyberos the Red Wake]

I buy the $1 cans of black and white Wal-Mart brand rattlecans to prime my models with and never had much of an issue. In fact, the finish is about the same as the $10 cans of Duplicolor Automotive Primer I used to buy. 

 

Walmart actually sometimes sells Dupli-Color for $0.98. It sounds like that $10 store is just selling at a huge markup.

[Stoic Raptor]

I've found that Vallejo AV Surface Primer works just fine even if you brush it on - as others have said, it helps if the surface is clean and it's important to allow 24 hours for the primer to cure before painting over it.  If you know there are spots where it's more likely to rub off (like a model with a cape) it does help to varnish over the basecoat before painting.

[OnboardG1]

As an addendum to this, I found that I had some paint chipping off of cawl because I accidentally thinned part of the basecoat with airbrush cleaner rather than thinner (derp). I got some vallejo modelcolor matt varnish and thinned it 50/50 with thinner. After spraying two thin coats at 25psi the result is really, really nice and it seems to have sealed the paint well. The only issue I've had is that it shows up slightly clumsy highlighting because you don't have as much natural light reflection to cover it up :P

[appiah4]

Get your primers from Auto garage stores.  That will be the one and only thing you need to do.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

 

I buy the $1 cans of black and white Wal-Mart brand rattlecans to prime my models with and never had much of an issue. In fact, the finish is about the same as the $10 cans of Duplicolor Automotive Primer I used to buy. 

 

Walmart actually sometimes sells Dupli-Color for $0.98. It sounds like that $10 store is just selling at a huge markup.

 

 

I used to buy it from the automotive department of Wal-Mart and it was $9.99. They quit carrying it in my area a while back. 

 

[duz_]

I was going to post something similar to this so might include here.

My metal models are already painted and I'm going through the process of doing more layers and highlights. As such I am more concerned now about them chipping vs before as it will take longer to repaint them.

What spray varnishes (?) Sealant coats would people recommend. My only knowledge on the subject is that they often end shiney or cloudy. Both of which I'd rather avoid.

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Gloss is stronger than matte or satin so you should put down a coat of gloss first and then matte or dullcoat to knock the shine off. 

[Major_Gilbear]

Step 1:

Brush-on water based non-yellowing polyurethane gloss varnish. Floor or exterior grade by preference. Thin a little with some clean water, and brush on two coats - leave them to dry fully (8+ hours) somewhere dust-free and warm between coats. Add more coats for cape corners, sword tips, and pointing fingers.

 

Step 2:

Once the gloss varnish is dry (24hrs min recommended), spray all over with Testors Dullcote. Set aside somewhere warm, still, and dry to let it fully cure.

 

Testors spray stinks, comes in very small cans, and needs lots and lots of shaking. It's also the flattest finish I think you can get; so spray outside on a nice still dry day, and quickly bring the models indoors afterwards. :)