Stripping Forge World Aquilon terminators

[MiniB1084]

Hello,

I have recently received and built my squad of forgeworld Aquilon terminators. Then when I went to prime with gw retributor armor. After 2 mins of harshly shaking the can I sprayed the models. When the paint dried a lot of detail lost its sharpness and some areas have bubbled. I am never using this spray again, back to normal primer. Anyway would resin be harmed by Dettol? As that’s all I can get hold of easily to strip them. Also how long should I leave them? Will I lose any detail using Dettol? Thanks in advance

[Major_Gilbear]

Do you still have the resin gates that you cut the pieces off from? If so, you can do a test soak in Dettol without risking your models first.

 

In any case, getting metallic rattlecan spray paint off resin figures is going to be pretty tricky.

 

You might be able to clean them enough to overpaint them if you try cotton swabs dipped in 100% isopropyl alchohol. Take your time and work over the parts slowly. It should help to get the worst of it off, but it's pretty hard to get the paint out of details. Don't soak them though, the alcohol will ruin them.

 

With spray paints in general, it's better to do a thin pass, let it dry fully (12 hours+), and then do another coat. If the paint goes on too thick, or if you don't let the paint cure well enough in between coats, the solvent can cause bubbles where it can't escape.

[m_r_parker]

+++ WARNING: DETTOL WILL SOFTEN THE RESIN +++

 

Sorry about the all-caps and the bold, but I can't highlight it enough. I've stripped paint off of some resin Imperial Fist upgrade kits, and even though the parts were only in the dettol just long enough to strip the paint, the resin started to soften and become slightly malleable. For things like torsos and heads its isn't massively noticeable, but for anything thin and long (think vox antennae, chainswords, etc) then they can become very bendy. 

 

Stripping paint is a somewhat tricky process, and there are numerous threads about what works and what doesn't. A lot of the known and successful processes are from the US using Simple Green, but the UK there isn't a great alternative. 

 

You might be best starting off with some warm water with washing up liquid and giving them models a good scrub with a toothbrush. If the paint is bubbling then you might be able to 'pop' the bubbles and get underneath the paint with the toothbrush bristles. You won't get more than half the paint off I'd wager, but it'll be a decent start and shouldn't affect the resin underneath. 

 

And as always, when preparing resin for painting:

• Wash the resin in soapy water to remove any residual release agent from the manufacturing process. Your problem might not necessarily be paint related but instead could be the releasing agent reacting with the paint.
• Assemble your miniatures, but before priming give the miniatures a spray of matt varnish / purity seal. The primer will sit better on top of a layer of purity seal, and any further releasing agent soaked into the resin won't come in contact with the paint.
• Prime / undercoat in your choice of colour.

[Major_Gilbear]

Some very good advice there, and thank you for sharing your dettol experiences with us. :)

 

I suspect the alcohol and pine oil in the Dettol is what's making the resin turn rubbery when soaked. As you say, there's unfortunately not a lot that will strip rattlecan paint but not damage the resin. Carefully controlled application of a stripper without letting it sit on the resin is pretty much the only thing I can think of.

 

• Assemble your miniatures, but before priming give the miniatures a spray of matt varnish / purity seal. The primer will sit better on top of a layer of purity seal, and any further releasing agent soaked into the resin won't come in contact with the paint.

 

With this, the important thing is that the primer has enough solvent in it to etch itself onto the resin parts. It's why FW used to recommend (and still does I think?) using an automotive primer rather than hobby sprays like GW or Army painter normally produce.

 

I suspect the Purity Seal has more solvent in it than the GW Primer does, hence why people use the trick you mention; however using a better primer in the first place means fewer coats and less detail obscured. ;)

[Brother Desultor]

I have to say that I have recently found Biostrip 20 to be very very good at stripping paint from plastic and resin models. There are a couple of benefits I have discovered over using IPA, Dettol and Fairy Power Spray: 1. There is very little odour, and what there is certainly isn't as strong or "toxic" as some of those just mentioned. 2. There is no need to wear protective gloves or breathing apparatus (although glasses are always a good idea regardless of the product) as it's water based and non toxic. And finally all it takes to strip the paint off a model is a 1 hour soak on average. No need for overnight soaking, although with plastics this will not harm the miniature. With resin, I've found it can soften overnight but as I just said, a 1 hour soak has proved to be enough time to loosen the paint. 

After soaking, scrub with your favourite former dental cleaning product or nail brush and then rinse in soapy water. Dip your brush into the pot of Biostrip to scrub away at the more stubborn paint residues. Personally after much trial and error I then blast them under the shower as it gets into all the nooks and crannies to remove any left over stripper.

The other good thing? It's cost effective AND can be bought here in the UK: http://www.biostrip.co.uk/paint-stripping.html

 

I've successfully used this to strip all sizes of miniatures, both in plastic and resin.

 

I forgot to add that it can be reused time and time again, based on the volume of paint stripping to be done of course, but I've stripped about 40 figures and 1 tank and am still using the original bottle of Biostrip 20. The only noticeable thing is the discolouration of the fluid (it's more like gunk though).

Edited October 23, 2017 by Brother Ophamion

[Arkhanist]

Another up-vote for biostrip 20 in the UK from me. I've stripped plastic, metal and resin with it fine. I have heard it can damage 'soft' plastic models, but it works fine on resin as long as you don't leave it overnight. I did accidentally leave some GW plastic test models in my dip tub (sandwich box) for a few weeks; they mostly survived, but where they were resting against the bottom they went a bit flat. So don't do that.

 

Much easier to get the paint residue off too, rather than the sticky goop you end up with with dettol.

 

I do wear gloves when handling models covered in it - mostly as it can stain your skin with washed off paint (it certainly stains my gloves). Supposedly it can also take off a thin layer of skin if left on neat. I use the same disposable vinyl ones I use for airbrushing.

 

I don't have any photos, but here's some of it in use including on a forgeworld resin model.

[OrangeBob]

Anyone know of anything like Biostrip 20 in the U.S.?

[old git]

I use ACETONE FREE nail polish remover to strip old minis. Cheap and readily available in UK (Super drug, around £2.50 a bottle). It's a bit whiffy so open a window or two, or use it in the garage/shed/outside. Pour over the models and use an old brush to get the stuff all over the models. You only need to leave it for ten minutes or so. Use an old toothbrush or similar and the paint comes off very easily. You'll probably need to give a scrub over the details. A good wash with soapy water and you're good to go. I must emphasise a couple of things; you must use ACETONE FREE remover otherwise it will affect the resin and you shouldn't need more than 10 - 15 minutes soaking. Honestly, give it a go, you'll be surprised. Edited October 28, 2017 by old git

[OrangeBob]

Great. I'll give it a go. The wife has some that she graciously will let me sample.

[Todosi]

If you are in the states, try Superclean or Purple Power.  They are degreasers usually in the automotive section of your local store.  The only issue with some nail polish removers, even if they say acetone free, is that they can react poorly with some resins.

[Dantay VI]

Degreaser??

 

I wonder if the Cillit bang degreaser might work

[Tyberos the Red Wake]

If you are in the states, try Superclean or Purple Power.  They are degreasers usually in the automotive section of your local store.  The only issue with some nail polish removers, even if they say acetone free, is that they can react poorly with some resins.

 

I literally saw a bottle of crappy nail polish remover that said "gentle" or "acetone free", flipped it over, and it had acetone as an ingredient. This is why I never use nail polish to strip.

[hushrong]

If you are in the states, try Superclean or Purple Power.  They are degreasers usually in the automotive section of your local store.  The only issue with some nail polish removers, even if they say acetone free, is that they can react poorly with some resins.

 

Thanks for this! *And this thread.

I just picked up an ebay rescue that had been assembled and prime. I want to take it apart and then paint strip it so I think I will give one of these products a try.

Haven't had to paint strip a mini in a long time but I think simple green is not as good as it used to be and this one household gel cleaner is no longer in production.

[OrangeBob]

I'm glad I'm not the only one to notice Simple Green doesn't quite seem to do the trick anymore. I thought I was losing my mind.

[hushrong]

I remember reading into it that they changed up their formula. I did this after buying a big ol' jug of it from Sam's Club and was wondering why it wasn't working for crap.

 

I need to get a few things from Autozone so I am going to keep an eye out for the Superclean or purple power stuff. Does anyone who uses it know if it loosens up glue? Simple green used to 'soften' up glue so I could pop off over glued parts pretty easily. I bought a dread on ebay that's built and would like to take it apart and wondering if a soak in degreaser would help out.

[AngryJohnny]

I've used Easy Off Oven Cleaner to strip Acrylic & Enamel paints (including primer) from my Pewter, Plastic & Resin figures with out any damage to the material. Use an old plastic coffee (Like Folgers) and place your figures inside, spray liberally with the Easy Off Oven Cleaner. Let them sit for a few hours (I've forgotten about pieces and left them for over a week w/out damage also) then run them under warm water and scrub with an old toothbrush to remove the paint. (If you let it sit long enough, it'll break the bond on some glues also)

[hushrong]

I've used Easy Off Oven Cleaner to strip Acrylic & Enamel paints (including primer) from my Pewter, Plastic & Resin figures with out any damage to the material. Use an old plastic coffee (Like Folgers) and place your figures inside, spray liberally with the Easy Off Oven Cleaner. Let them sit for a few hours (I've forgotten about pieces and left them for over a week w/out damage also) then run them under warm water and scrub with an old toothbrush to remove the paint. (If you let it sit long enough, it'll break the bond on some glues also)

 

That sounds good. I won't have that thing in my hands till the end of the week. If I cannot pry it apart without risking a break I may look up this Easy Off too.

 

That sounds like a good 2 for 1 for stripping and breaking down glue.

[Slothysaur]

 

 

I've used Easy Off Oven Cleaner to strip Acrylic & Enamel paints (including primer) from my Pewter, Plastic & Resin figures with out any damage to the material. Use an old plastic coffee (Like Folgers) and place your figures inside, spray liberally with the Easy Off Oven Cleaner. Let them sit for a few hours (I've forgotten about pieces and left them for over a week w/out damage also) then run them under warm water and scrub with an old toothbrush to remove the paint. (If you let it sit long enough, it'll break the bond on some glues also)

That sounds good. I won't have that thing in my hands till the end of the week. If I cannot pry it apart without risking a break I may look up this Easy Off too.

 

That sounds like a good 2 for 1 for stripping and breaking down glue.

I can confirm that Super Clean breaks down super glue nicely. I soaked a 10 man squad of marines in it for roughly a week (I forgot about them truthfully) and they basically fell apart. No damage to the models at all. Only issue is I can't seem to get the base primer off, but I did get my buddies first (and second) attempt(s) at painting them off.

 

Edit: They were plastic models. I haven't tried stripping resin with Super Clean yet, so this whole post may be moot.

Edited November 4, 2017 by Slothysaur

[hushrong]

I can confirm that Super Clean breaks down super glue nicely. I soaked a 10 man squad of marines in it for roughly a week (I forgot about them truthfully) and they basically fell apart. No damage to the models at all. Only issue is I can't seem to get the base primer off, but I did get my buddies first (and second) attempt(s) at painting them off.

Edit: They were plastic models. I haven't tried stripping resin with Super Clean yet, so this whole post may be moot.

That's good to hear. I may have to try that next time. I went to autozone and forgot to look for super clean.

However, I went to Home Depot today and bought some easy off. So to begin:

This is the picture from ebay of the contemptor I bought. He arrived with his left gun broken off and his hip joints broken and loose. So he could do the matrix or touch his toes with his nose if he wished. For $25 I didn't mind and there were a few things that needed fixing up anyway, plus I didn't like the pose, so I got busy breaking him down into this:

So the previous owner used a glue that looked green. You can kind of see it in the ankle sockets. Fortunately I was able to break it down into pieces. When I picked up Easy Off at Home Depot I came home, put the bits in a plastic bowl, and went to town spraying the contemptor. After a good 30-40 minutes I anxiously cleaned him up to this stage:

Most of the paint just washed off under hot water. Some scrubbing followed. I would later spray down the contemptor one more time with easy off and got him a wee bit cleaner in less than 15 minutes. I also let him soak in some hot, soapy water as the Easy Off left a residue that felt similar to the releasing agent FW uses.

After all that I have a new Contemptor ready to be built and put to work for the true Warmaster!

I am also pretty satisfied with Easy Off Oven & Grill cleaner. It worked well and it removed what I have now learned was silver paint with no primer, followed by some kind of green paint, and then the black coat you saw in the first picture. I do think the Easy Off softened the resin a bit. So far it seems to have only effected the thin portions like the trim near his left shoulder socket. Other than that I haven't noticed anything else.