Digital wolf stepping through the warp onto the TT

[Krakendoomcool]

Your a valued member of the pack my friend, don’t worry about anything like that.

 

Well done for getting some hobby done. He’s coming along nicely. Well done on the free hand.

 

Your dropper incident was making me laugh. So many times in this hobby it just doesn’t go the way you think it will (speaking from my own experience). It’s great we can all learn off each other.

[Dantay VI]

Theres no such thing as being a crap painter and we are all learning :)

 

Leviathan is looking great, especially like Brands badge on his knee

[PeteySödes]

Heck yea! That wolf that stalks stars is super well done! This guy is shaping up splendidly :D

[TiguriusX]

Heck yea! That wolf that stalks stars is super well done! This guy is shaping up splendidly

I can't claim any credit for the wolf it is a shapeways icon I just put on.

I did paint it white though...

I am the comic relief painter on this site.

I never jumped into the hobby side b/c I know I am not artistic at all. So long as it isn't bad/embarassing I'm good with it.

I knew I had no shot when I came across the meme "its no Leviathan walking in water but it is ok"

Forget being in the same league...I'm not even in the same universe as these hobbyists

Painting is a path I have to travel to get tournament qualified. And I admit I do enjoy it and take some pride when I do paint something nicely.

I know where I stand in the hobby hierarchy and am totally fine with it. I'll keep posting the mediocre models I have to encourage others in the same boat. The final product isn't always gold demon level.

Edited May 21, 2018 by TiguriusX

[PeteySödes]

Hah well the other knee is great too, I just saw people had already called it out! Don't be so hard on yourself though, your stuff is looking good and your still pushing out of your comfort zone!

[SW1]

Dude your a fine painter. I have to press mould icons onto pads as I can't put transfers on curved surfaces and my freehand sucks big time. By getting them off a company you've ended up with a much more reliable level of quality to your details while mines a bit hit and miss having to re-stamp several times depending on the details I'm trying to replicate.

 

We all start off at different levels but we all improve over time. When I started there was no advice on thinning paints and my brushes were not even GWS level. I was too young to buy spray paints so everything got hand undercoated with paint right out of the pot.

[TiguriusX]

Last weekend 0 progress. My kids and wife came down with stomach flu and I got to play nurse for about a week while they all suffered. They started getting better and then I got knocked on my ass first thing on Memorial Day.

Finally have a recovered household and was happy to get some painting in again today

I wasn't happy with how my storm cannons looked with red barrels. Redid lots of detail work and basically took a step back from last week.

Painted the shoulders black again and put white on the flat plates. I think it breaks up the wall of gray and serves as the heavy unit coloring (black/white) that I am using.

The iconography is still on the knees instead of the shoulders though

Some came out better....others I botched. I tried to touch up the free hand of Brand's symbol and butchered it....I must have painted it over black and tried/failed like 3 separate times today. I absolutely struggle with fine lines and detail. I wish I had a pen I could write with instead of trying to paint this fine. I am envious of all the models I see with hand written runes and iconography. I can't even make a basic line haha

I did my first ever edge highlighting using dawnstone to accentuate the mechanicus grey

I'm fairly happy with the final result from today's session

Compare/contrast current/previous

I think I have 1 more round of minor touch ups and I can call this leviathan a wrap

Edited June 3, 2018 by TiguriusX

[Dantay VI]

If you want to do fine lines, go for sakura micron pens.

 

They do various colours and would help if you did a white pad with black markings :)

 

Also glad you and the family are feeling better

 

The Leviathan is looking great btw

[TiguriusX]

If you want to do fine lines, go for sakura micron pens.

 

They do various colours and would help if you did a white pad with black markings

 

Also glad you and the family are feeling better

 

The Leviathan is looking great btw

 

Picking up some Sakura pens on amazon right now

 

Reading up on the options (ooh they have white)

 

Do you just use them as painting with a fine brush substitute and they sit over the paint just fine?

[Dantay VI]

They seem to work over paint fine, but probably works best if you put a wee coat of gloss varnish over what you want to work on.

 

I did it with GW ardcoat and the pen did not ike that much though. Varnish lft a rubbery coat on the model which kept grabbing the tips 

 

I like using the blue one for doing tattoos on my Space wolves.

 

Take care with the tips, they are a bit delicate. Wrecked my black one on the first go round when the tip buckled while I was trying to draw with it.

[TiguriusX]

They seem to work over paint fine, but probably works best if you put a wee coat of gloss varnish over what you want to work on.

 

I did it with GW ardcoat and the pen did not ike that much though. Varnish lft a rubbery coat on the model which kept grabbing the tips 

 

I like using the blue one for doing tattoos on my Space wolves.

 

Take care with the tips, they are a bit delicate. Wrecked my black one on the first go round when the tip buckled while I was trying to draw with it.

 

I did a quick google search on using pens/markers for details and also found Liquitex pen markers.  Looks like actual acrylic paint (same as the GW etc. stuff)

 

Anyone have experience using this?  The tip doesn't look as fine but I assume no need for special gloss/varnish on this 

 

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J6CO04E/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

*EDIT

 

Carpe diem!

 

I picked up a cheap starter set of both the sakura and the liquitex.  I'll be the guinea pig and let everyone know how it turns out for me.  It was only 20 bucks for assorted white/black/grey.  If it saves me detail work frustration it is well worth it.  

Edited June 3, 2018 by TiguriusX

[Dantay VI]

I lok forwrd to seeing how you egton with them ans will take a peek at the liquitex pens :tu:

[TiguriusX]

After a quick field test I have mixed results but say use the sakura micro pen

Here they are for size comparison

The liquitex is NOT a fine detail item. Maybe good for vehicles and larger surfaces

It does however have the superior medium (it is acrylic paint). So I do like how it would sit on the model but I was unable to do any fine detail using it.

Anyways I put the finishing touches on my leviathan. Tried the free hand rune for B using dark ink....looks meh to me. Part of me is tempted to carve it with an exacto knife and then try to paint it so it has a glowing rune effect. I also added a wolf skull to break up the open space on the side torso. You can't tell from the picture but I used a ton of leadbelcher on the smaller panels of the dread (all the grills and access panels etc.). In person I like how it catches the light and it does contrast the gray armor panels.

Was able to touch up the knee icon and I am happy with the control from the sakura micro pen. I am just a lousy artist heh. I tried to dirty it up with agrax earthshade....bad idea. Had to draw it back on with fresh white after that mistake. I did like the tracing I did with the micro pen on the missiles and the agrax earthshade in that area looks fine to me

I also put nuln oil on the great wolf symbol and it helped pop some of the finer detail lines and gave it a dirty look

My first ever large model painted and completed. I am happy with the result. He will wait for his final photo shoot when the rest of the ETL vow is complete

[PeteySödes]

Oh man gelly pens, that takes me back!

 

Looks great though! Grats on stepping up to a huge model like that. I always find myself just staring at the thing before starting a large project like that, “what am I doing...”.

[TiguriusX]

Ok the B rune just kept bugging me so I dove into repair. Took me ages to use my tiny knife and cut/gouge out the rune

Debating whether 1 more layer of white inside the rune is needed or not

What say you?

*edit

showed it to my friend and he said cool...but why does it have bluetooth...freaking blood angels

Edited June 5, 2018 by TiguriusX

[Dantay VI]

If you make the white super dilute it will work really well

 

 

[TiguriusX]

If you make the white super dilute it will work really well

 

 

i was actually using your first video as my guide but dont have the exact same colors

 

i also do not have liquitex flow aid and used water to thin (but not enough it seems)

[Dantay VI]

I do not have those colours either :D

 

In theory you could use any colours and water works fine to replace the medium and flow improver :)

 

The advantages to them is that it helps to not break up the pigments so much

[TiguriusX]

I do not have those colours either

In theory you could use any colours and water works fine to replace the medium and flow improver

The advantages to them is that it helps to not break up the pigments so much

Went back and did a fresh batch of ceramite with lahmian medium and super watered down. Basically turned it into a strong white pigment wash.

The rune is very strong and distinct now.

Also experimented on my shield dread by putting the white FIRST and then doing blues over it. Didn't like the result and it was hard to do without messing up the delicate white portion. I saw this technique in another youtube video and meh...it is not for me.

Need to do some clean up on the shield dread when everything is dry

[mercbat]

Missed your thread earlier. I think your glow is very good, "B" rune is really distinct from the distance. The only thing I'd improve is a border between two blue colors of glow. May be a mix of them both 1:1 + 3-4 parts of medium and another thin layer or two to tie them together.

 

As for "white first" - from my experience it needs covering layer to be very very thin or this layer must be almost white too with a little touch of another color, and this is almost every time too bright, for my taste.

[Krakendoomcool]

Your dreads are looking really good. Nice touch carving out the Rune and great job making it glow.

 

Also well done for doing the research into the pens I’d been thinking about using pens myself.

[Bjorn Firewalker]

Your Leviathans are coming along well.

[TiguriusX]

Just got back from a 12 day road trip to Yellowstone....actually looking forward to quiet painting time

Calling my shield dread done for now

I need to improve on my blue/white rune painting. I see myself going back to this model and particularly the ax when I have more skill in the future

However, I need to speed up my ETL progress I am going slow.

*EDIT*

Next up is Bjorn (and Njal)!

Edited June 23, 2018 by TiguriusX

[Bjorn Firewalker]

Will all your Dreadnoughts bear protective runes to counter enemy sorcery and psyker shenanigans? (I approve, in that case.)

[TiguriusX]

Will all your Dreadnoughts bear protective runes to counter enemy sorcery and psyker shenanigans? (I approve, in that case.)

 

 

The theme for my army is durability and survival.  

 

High toughness and invulnerable saves are the primary characteristics I look for when army building (was the main thing that attracted me to the leviathan dreadnought).

 

Runes of protection are definitely a theme I want on everything (dreadnoughts and other units).