Any hints and tips on painting white consuls?

[Axineton]

So after scouring the net I found some love for the white consuls on how to paint them but it was all in Russian so it wasn’t very useful.

 

Only tutorials I find on painting marines in white are for the white scars. Would I be best in following the guides on them then adding in the white Consuls differing colours?

 

I also need to know what white paints to buy etc as I’m a noob and not painted anything for decades.

[Grotsmasha]

I'd follow WarhammerTV's White Scar tutorial for the White, then swap in the spot colours you need :tu: 

 

You'll also need to decide if you want the "warm" white with brown (Agrax) shade, or "cooler" white with grey (nuln oil) shading.

 

Cheers,

Jono

[Razblood]

Suggestions for paints can be tricky without knowing what brand you prefer, but as said above you'd be wise to follow the White Scar guide and possibly get the citadel app as it can give you paint recommendations for both warm and cool white schemes.

[Axineton]

Yep I thought as much about following the white scars guide. Cheers guys much appreciated. I have the citadel app too so I’ll be sure to use that as well

[Major_Gilbear]

As you and others have already concluded, a White Scars tutorial is basically what you need here - just swap out the the accent colours for those of the White Consuls. Tale Of Painters have a super-detailed and easy-to-follow tutorial here, and they list all the paints they use.

 

In general, I would suggest the following tips when painting white models:

 

Attach your model to en empty paint pot or a clean cork with some poster putty/Blu-tack. Use this to hold your model, and avoid touching the model itself. Not only do the oils in your skin affect the paint, but it's very easy to accidentally transfer paint or such onto your model inadvertently. If you avoid touching the model itself, you avoid any such issues. It's also more comfortable to hold the model this way. You can obtain clean corks very cheaply online (example), and they are re-usable.

 

Start with a white (or very light grey/ivory) undercoat. You can get a high-quality good-value white primer from Halfords in the UK, but any good-quality automotive spray primer will do.

 

White spray can go on a bit thick. To get a good finish, spray very lightly and let the model cure fully overnight; then do another coat and let it cure overnight again. Don't try to get every nook and cranny - the primer is just there to help the paint stick to the model and give you a good, solid, and even starting point for your painting.

 

Once your models are primed, you'll need to basecoat them. Even though the primer has probably done 95% of the work for you, you will get a better finish when you do the shading if you don't skip this step - it also lets you ensure that you catch any areas the primer coat may have missed. Apply the basecoat all over the model in two or three thinned coats, letting the model dry fully between coats. This shouldn't take you very long, and the thin coats dry quickly.

 

Remember that you can only shade white - as the lightest colour in your palette, there is nothing you can highlight it with! You will therefore be mostly painting with a very, very, light grey/ivory as your "white", and keeping pure white for any edge highlights.

 

When it comes to do the shading, try and be neat. I know it takes longer, and that small slips can be corrected with a little white later, but this is what will make the sculpted details stand out and the white appear as white, and so it's worth taking some time over. Slopping shade all over the model may be quicker, but you'll then have to go back over most areas with white anyway, and this is much more work.

 

Work from the inside out on the model. That is to say, start with the heard-to-reach areas first, (often the area between the arms-chest-weapon) and work your way out towards the easiest-to-reach parts. This allows you to tidy up a bit as you go should you need to, and help you to avoid getting paint where it shouldn't be.

 

Keep your paint layers thin, and be prepared to apply a good few such layers. White is tricky to paint if you rush it, and the finish can get thick and/or gritty if you rush it.

 

Although the white can look rather bland when you're done, don't despair or be tempted to muck about with it - much of the finished model effect actually comes from all the other colours on the model. These other colours provide contrast, and trick the eye into seeing the white as being much brighter and cleaner than when you're just looking at the white on its own.

 

Take your time (and have some faith!), and you'll get a good finish at the end. A nice, smooth, crisply-painted white scheme looks extremely impressive when finished, and you will undoubtedly get many admiring remarks from your opponents! ;) 

[Axineton]

As you and others have already concluded, a White Scars tutorial is basically what you need here - just swap out the the accent colours for those of the White Consuls. Tale Of Painters have a super-detailed and easy-to-follow tutorial here, and they list all the paints they use.

 

In general, I would suggest the following tips when painting white models:

 

 

Attach your model to en empty paint pot or a clean cork with some poster putty/Blu-tack. Use this to hold your model, and avoid touching the model itself. Not only do the oils in your skin affect the paint, but it's very easy to accidentally transfer paint or such onto your model inadvertently. If you avoid touching the model itself, you avoid any such issues. It's also more comfortable to hold the model this way. You can obtain clean corks very cheaply online (example), and they are re-usable.

 

Start with a white (or very light grey/ivory) undercoat. You can get a high-quality good-value white primer from Halfords in the UK, but any good-quality automotive spray primer will do.

 

White spray can go on a bit thick. To get a good finish, spray very lightly and let the model cure fully overnight; then do another coat and let it cure overnight again. Don't try to get every nook and cranny - the primer is just there to help the paint stick to the model and give you a good, solid, and even starting point for your painting.

 

Once your models are primed, you'll need to basecoat them. Even though the primer has probably done 95% of the work for you, you will get a better finish when you do the shading if you don't skip this step - it also lets you ensure that you catch any areas the primer coat may have missed. Apply the basecoat all over the model in two or three thinned coats, letting the model dry fully between coats. This shouldn't take you very long, and the thin coats dry quickly.

 

Remember that you can only shade white - as the lightest colour in your palette, there is nothing you can highlight it with! You will therefore be mostly painting with a very, very, light grey/ivory as your "white", and keeping pure white for any edge highlights.

 

When it comes to do the shading, try and be neat. I know it takes longer, and that small slips can be corrected with a little white later, but this is what will make the sculpted details stand out and the white appear as white, and so it's worth taking some time over. Slopping shade all over the model may be quicker, but you'll then have to go back over most areas with white anyway, and this is much more work.

 

Work from the inside out on the model. That is to say, start with the heard-to-reach areas first, (often the area between the arms-chest-weapon) and work your way out towards the easiest-to-reach parts. This allows you to tidy up a bit as you go should you need to, and help you to avoid getting paint where it shouldn't be.

 

Keep your paint layers thin, and be prepared to apply a good few such layers. White is tricky to paint if you rush it, and the finish can get thick and/or gritty if you rush it.

 

Although the white can look rather bland when you're done, don't despair or be tempted to muck about with it - much of the finished model effect actually comes from all the other colours on the model. These other colours provide contrast, and trick the eye into seeing the white as being much brighter and cleaner than when you're just looking at the white on its own.

 

Take your time (and have some faith!), and you'll get a good finish at the end. A nice, smooth, crisply-painted white scheme looks extremely impressive when finished, and you will undoubtedly get many admiring remarks from your opponents! ;)

Cheers man that’s quite extensive and I’m sure it’ll help me once I start painting these little rascals

[Kinstryfe]

Without reading thru the tutorials, my best advice for white is two things. First, since you can't highlight pure white, you may want to make your base color just off-white, to allow you to still highlight with pure white. Second, you can experiment with very very small amounts of other colors to tint your shading wash and tip your palette in that direction. Blue or purple grey instead of pure grey, a little more yellow or green with sepia washes. Very tiny amounts, but sometimes they can have a pleasing effect pulling together the colors.

[Axineton]

Thanks mate. The more advice the better.

[Aramis K]

I echo what Kinstryfe said, start with off-white, I use Ulthuan Grey or Palid Wytch Flesh, and tint your wash slightly. Nice depth.

For White Consuls I'd start grey and tint a bluegrey wash to tie colours together. That's how I paint Mentors which are similar colours.