Anyone use masking for painting?

[CMDR_Welles]

Does anyone have any experience with masking? Not just for Airbrushing, but for normal brush work as well? I thought maybe using a mask would help with my situation as I an not that steady anymore.

I've seen people on Youtube using liquid masks, tape, and even Silly Putty, Bluetac, to play-doh...

 

If you could share your experiences and tips, that would be very helpful, thanks.

[Bryan Blaire]

I have used masking tape on models (mostly terrain and vehicles) to create specific patterns (lines, etc). My experience is that you don't want to have heavy paint build up against the tape or even onto the because when you remove the tape, there may be a ridge left behind in the paint or if there is heavy paint dried across the tape onto the model, you may even pull some of the paint off the model when you remove the tape.

 

On the terrain, I actually have sought to make the ridge of paint because I can actually use that to my advantage when shading or weathering the terrain, but on vehicles it can be annoying.

[Firepower]

Can't say I've ever thought to use it without an airbrush.  I use Tamiya masking tape typically, and since I'm paranoid of it ripping up the paint, I tend to seal before using it.  Also, to help limit the risk of that problem, I tend to put the tape on myskin and peel it off a few times to reduce the stickiness.  It just has to stay in place, it doesn't have to cling like a tick.

[Warpmiss]

I have used masking tape on models (mostly terrain and vehicles) to create specific patterns (lines, etc). My experience is that you don't want to have heavy paint build up against the tape or even onto the because when you remove the tape, there may be a ridge left behind in the paint or if there is heavy paint dried across the tape onto the model, you may even pull some of the paint off the model when you remove the tape.

On the terrain, I actually have sought to make the ridge of paint because I can actually use that to my advantage when shading or weathering the terrain, but on vehicles it can be annoying.

How can paint building up against the tape be avoided? I tried using some tape for the hazard stripes of my IWs' pauldrons but some paint always got stuck in the tape ruining the edges of every line. :(

[Major_Gilbear]

Where certain models needed to be primed in two different colours, I have used poster putty (Blu-Tack), masking tape, and cling film.

 

Wherever the mask touches the model, and wherever the colours have  sharp line against each other, I get the raised line that Bryan mentions. Every time.

 

If I spray against the mask at an angle, I get a fuzzy line, but I avoid the raised line.

 

Unfortunately, I can only suggest the following to mitigate this:

 

> Wherever possible, position the mask against an edge on the model, or at a joining of two parts/materials. For example, along a sword edge, or against a boot where it meets the ground, or along the edge of a panel line, etc. This helps disguise and minimise any raised edges that may occur.

 

> Make sure the mask is firmly fixed to the model, with no gaps underneath.

 

> Use a thin spray. By thin, I mean thinned - with plenty of solvent. This lets the paint dry to thin layer, and minimises any raised build up.

 

> Spray at a slight angle to the mask, against the mask and not into it. This avoids the buildup of paint against the edge of the mask, and again minimises any raised edges. It also avoids the paint leaking/bleeding under the edge of the mask.

 

> Remove the mask when the paint is touch-dry, but before the paint fully cures. Really, you don't want the mask on the model longer than you absolutely have to, as the longer it's on, the higher the risk of damaging the paintjob when you remove it.

 

It takes some practice, and with primer/undercoats (especially from rattlecans), there is only so much you can do. You can do better with airbrushes, because you have so much more control over the paint, and the application of the paint. And finally, although you can hand-paint over masks as well, I've never personally achieved a good result doing so.

[CMDR_Welles]

In 2015 I suffered from nerve damage in the left side of my face and eye. It also affected my arms and hands to a lesser degree. While I've regained

the use of most of my face, the eyesight has been severely degraded. I need to use a jewelers loupe headband in order to even see what I am doing.

 

My depth perception is not very good anymore, and with the added increase in random twitching, I am finding myself with a lot of problems that I am having

to overcome. Mainly my brush control is not what it once was, which means I'll finish a section, and move onto another but end up marring the work I just completed.

I seem to spend more time chasing corrections around the model more than actually making progress. Its kind of frustrating.

 

I was hoping in some way to mask off a section that is completed, move onto another, and I limit any chance of ruining what's already been done.

 

I just dont know what or how to do this effectively and thus my question here.

[Major_Gilbear]

I wonder if perhaps a change in approach would work better for you?

 

By this, I mean something along the lines of the following:

 

- Don't fully assemble the model. Use sub assemblies to help you paint smaller sections, and to reach into all the areas more easily. Assemble fully at the end.

 

- Use more forgiving techniques. If you find painting fine lines difficult, then reduce how many you need. You might find it easier to shade down from a very bright or white under/base coat down to the required shade, rather than to highlight all the way up. By shading down, you're making the thin paints/washes work for you as they naturally want to run into recesses and lower areas. You can then reserve edge highlights for just the final touches.

 

- Paint the whole part/model rather than sections. It's easier to bring up the model all at the same time, as each stage can be used to correct any mistakes in the previous stage. If you do little sections at a time, it's too easy to spoil a finished area by accident.

 

- Increase your reaction time. By adding a little retarder to your paint, it will dry more slowly. In turn, this gives you more time to put the paint exactly where you want before it dries, and also to clean up any mistakes whilst the paint is still wet. If you paint in short sessions, the drying time between areas creates natural break points for you. Otherwise, a small hairdryer can be carefully used to speed up drying time between coats once you have the paint where you want it.

 

- Use some cling film and Silly Putty. Going with your original question here, but the cling film is pretty forgiving for covering big and/or complex parts. The Silly Putty can be used to seal along the edge of the cling film, and is better than Blu-tack because it's silicone-based and won't leave grease on your model. Either way, this is only a very coarse sort of "handling" protection - you won't really be able to paint right up to the putty all that neatly for example, as otherwise you'll encounter the issues we described in the posts above.

 

- Choose an army that suits a less precise painting finish, or that has a simpler paint scheme. For example, shiny Iron Warriors or crusty Death Guard are much easier to paint in a looser/simpler way than say parade-ready Imperial Fists or White Scars.

 

- Similar to the last point, you could consider weathering as a means to both add character to a model, and also to conceal any imperfect areas. This than be applied in a variety of ways, and to varying degrees, at the end of a pretty basic paintjob to get a very finished-looking model. For example, an ivory basecoat, some dark grey chips sponged on, and then a coat of gloss varnish gives you an ideal base for applying an oil-based brown wash over that will give you 90% of a Death Guard model without requiring too much in the way of careful brush control. Bright highlights on something like this would be achieved simply by wiping the excess oil paint off with a clean rag.

 

I hope that helps? :)

[Anamnesis]

Just put some plastic wrap from the kitchen around the part you've finished, or just around the mini and just left the part you're painting sticking out.

 

Should do the trick for painting :)

 

Good luck!

Anamnesis

[CMDR_Welles]

Thanks everyone for your input on this. Its really been helpful. I had never thought to use cling wrap, so I am going to pick some up along with some silly putty while I am at Walmart this afternoon.

 

Hopefully between the two, I can speed up my painting.

 

I'm really glad I found this site.