Sealing Imperial Guard

[Colonel Cross]

Hey guys I recently got back into the hobby after a 12+ year break. I've slowly been stripping and repainting my massive guard army and I was wondering what the best method is for sealing these guys?

 

I've tried matte varnish but then all the metallics are subdued. Can I just use some brush on gloss varnish for the lasgun barrels and such? Or maybe use a spray on gloss then hit it with matte? I feel like a total noob. So many of my models are metal I really want to protect them since they chip when I look at them :/

[Halfpint100]

I just use a matt varnish spray. I combo of gloss and matt would help keep there shine. I just like my models dark and grimy

[UltraRich]

I use GW spray which I find to be slightly satin rather than Matt.

What i thwn do is pick out lenses etc with ardcoat to give those bits their shine back

[Ranulf]

I've always found that metal models need more than a spray on coat of varnish to prevent chipping on exposed edges. 

 

My best results came from a brushed-on layer of gloss varnish with extra layers given to exposed/sharp edges of the mini that would make contact with surfaces should it fall over.

 

Then a coat or two of matte/satin spray varnish to kill the shine, because I don't like gloss finishes.

[Major_Gilbear]

I have lots of metal models across lots of games systems. What I do is this:

 

- Gloss varnish applied by brush all over. I use a water-based UV-resistant non-yellowing water-based polyurethane varnish that's designed for sealing floors with. It's expensive, but one tin will last for so long that I doubt I'll ever need to buy another. I thin this a little with some clean water and apply it in two thin layers. Any sticky-outy bits like swords, cloak corners, pointing fingers, etc get a couple of extra thin coats.

 

- Once everything is fully dry (leave overnight), I spray them all with a good spray of Testor's Dullcote. I do this outside, one model at a time, and bring them in straight after. Put them somewhere warm, dry, and dust-free to fully cure.

 

- If you need to touch up any areas the matte spray missed (usually in hard-to reach areas), I thin down some matte medium (at least 1:1 with clean water), and apply it with a brush to those areas. This evens the finish, and are spots you will never handle or scuff anyway.

 

- Finally, I apply any last highlights to metallics. I leave these until after sealing to ensure that they stay reflective. I also like the matte metal with the reflective metallic highlight, as it provides a very nice contrast. If there are any lenses, I also tend to paint these last and apply some gloss varnish to them by hand. Doing these tiny details last -after sealing- ensures that you get the finishes you want without compromising protection on the main parts of the models.

 

So far, together with sensible handling, I've never had any chips. One more thing is that I take a lot of care when prepping metal models, to ensure that the paint really sticks. This is my prep:

 

> After you've cleaned up mouldlines and assembled your models, I use a small brass brush (looks like a toothbrush with brass bristles) and give the model a quick once-over. Be gentle, and be thorough. You're only looking to micro-scratch the model's surfaces in order to provide a key for the primer, and are not looking to mark the model such that it will show when you prime it. Prominent areas (i.e., those that you will touch when playing) are a priority here, and I don't worry so much about areas that I'll never reach.

 

> Then I wash the models in warm water and dish-soap with an old toothbrush. I rinse these in clean warm water with the brush again, and then set them aside to air-dry somewhere warm.

 

> I avoid handling the washed models as much as possible, and mount these for spray-priming.

 

> I spray prime using a good-quality automotive spray primer (usually grey, but sometimes white, black, or even another colour is suitable). A good even coat, and then I put the model somewhere warm to fully dry and cure for at least 24 hours. The curing time is important, as even though it's touch-dry after an hour or so, the paint keeps on curing, hardening, and shrinking onto the miniature surface for a good while after that, and it's easy to rub off during this period if you're not careful.

 

> Finally, I avoid handling the model directly until after it's sealed at the end. I put pins in the models' feet at the clean-up stage before washing, and then use clamps to hold them whilst I paint. You could equally stick the model to it's base and then attach it to a cork or an old empty paint pot to hold if you prefer. Whatever works in letting you hold the model without touching it!

 

The reason for the washing and careful handling is to avoid transferring any oils from your skin to the model, as these reduce paint adhesion and can weaken the final paint finish. I know lots of people never bother with washing, priming, or even varnishing, and claim to get on fine - however, I have found that without this level of prep and care, paint does rub/scuff off metal (and resin) models pretty easily.

[The Mad Hermit]

As I've come to expect, Major Gilbear sets someone on the right path.

[duz_]

My goal is eventually to finish my Mordians. At which point I will need to varnish too my research has come up with exactly what the Major has posted.

 

Best protection for metal models is gloss varnish, allow to thoroughly dry then some matte finish to tone down the shine.

[Colonel Cross]

Thanks Major! Very helpful! I guess I'll be picking up some gloss varnish here soon.

 

I actually do the same paint prep for my metal models. The only difference is I use indoor/outdoor anti rust paint+primer because that stuff seems to be very tough once it's cured. I recently dropped a Cadian banner bearer (the big metal one with the chainsword) down a flight of steps when I was rushing to pack up my army and he didn't get a single chip!