Warhammer Snow Globes

[Mileposter]

I'm a long way out from being able to put this project into actuality, but I figured the idea was worth exploring anyway and might give another hobbyist some thoughts.

 

There are DIY snow globe kits everywhere. Don't need any help on making the snowglobe part itself.

 

The question comes to the model itself - many of the paints we use are water soluble, so I'd assume that thy'd come off without a solid finish of some kind... but not every varnish can be used with every thing - some effects are typically used AFTER the varnish... Which could create some weird happenings if one improperly.

 

How might one go about finishing/sealing/protecting a model that you intend to be eternally submerged?

[Kinstryfe]

I don't actually have an answer to this, but this is my new favorite question I've ever seen on this website.

 

My best outside the box thinking after looking up snowglobes on Google is to maybe use an oil base for the "water"? Or maybe grab a mini you don't care about and Chuck it in a glass of water and see how it looks after days/weeks/more?

[Ryno]

Like Kinstryfe, I don't have an answer for you but I'm keen to find out as well.

Would make quite a sweet display medium for a Chapter Master from a winter-themed world, I'd say.

[Arkhanist]

I'm a long way out from being able to put this project into actuality, but I figured the idea was worth exploring anyway and might give another hobbyist some thoughts.

 

There are DIY snow globe kits everywhere. Don't need any help on making the snowglobe part itself.

 

The question comes to the model itself - many of the paints we use are water soluble, so I'd assume that thy'd come off without a solid finish of some kind... but not every varnish can be used with every thing - some effects are typically used AFTER the varnish... Which could create some weird happenings if one improperly.

 

How might one go about finishing/sealing/protecting a model that you intend to be eternally submerged?

 

Interesting idea! Acrylic paint is not water soluble once it's cured - the polymers chemically bond to the surface and each other. It literally forms a thin layer of waterproof plastic. So much so, it's suitable for use to paint swimming pools! Just give it an extra day or two when you're finished to make sure it's totally cured.

 

However, there are a few caveats. Most snow globes have more than water in, in order to slow down the movement of the glitter; glycerin is common. This too shouldn't pose much of a problem, but another mix is alcohol and mineral oil, which is a much stronger solvent mix than water and I suspect you would eventually get some soaking into the paint surface which could affect the colour and finish. So perhaps avoid the kits with substantial amounts of alcohol and/or oil-based kits - particularly if you use any oil-based washes, as they will definitely be reactivated without a varnish.

 

Another potential problem is UV bleaching.  You're supposed to keep them out of direct sunlight as the curved glass can act as magnifying glass, which is a fire hazard, but it's still likely to see a lot more sunlight than minis stored in cases. Though the glass will block most of the UV, it is still a potential issue over the long term. 

 

Finally, the glue holding the model together needs to stand up to long term immersion. Superglue is water resistant, but it's not waterproof - which is why they don't use it on boats! It will eventually soften and break. It's also not great for something that is going to get shaken a lot...

I've no idea if poly cement will work underwater long term. Probably? The standard go-to for underwater glue is 2-part epoxy though. Marine-grade epoxy (loctite do one for example) will even cure underwater and will not soften, so is the safest bet.

 

So with marine epoxy and a water/glycerin mix, you should be OK apart from potential UV issues. For that, a varnish will help, and also protect the paintwork further. Acrylic polyurethane varnish is waterproof and very UV resistant, which should protect the mini nicely for a long time. Just apply the finish you want for most of the mini; matt, satin or gloss.

 

The main downside of matt varnish is that it dulls metals. There are two solutions; the first is to finish metallic highlights after the varnish coat - the acrylic would still be waterproof, so it shouldn't be a significant issue. The second is to apply a brush gloss varnish coat to the metallics after, along with lenses, gems etc to make them shinier, if that's the effect you're after! If you do want to use weathering pigments, they will need to be varnish sealed.

 

The final thing to consider is algae or similar growing in the water after it's sealed. You'll want something in the water to prevent that; if it's alcohol, a little should be ok especially with a varnish coat.

[Subtle Discord]

Yep, that's a good one. It's a novel idea but you've hit it right on the head, soaking acrylics for extended periods (like, for forever) is going to be tricky. While acrylics do turn into what should be a waterproof plastic once they dry, any moisture that can get under the paint, by osmosis or otherwise, will likely cause the paint to peel over time. I suspect most painted objects in snowglobes would be done with an enamel paint to deal with this issue.

 

The only thing that comes to mind that might work is a marine varnish intended for use on wooden boats. I've seen it used on furniture like coffee tables that can expect to see some general spillage or condensation from cold drinks and it creates a very tough, durable, and completely waterproof barrier. It will likely go on thick and take quite some time to dry, but it might just be up to the task. Now, I'm not sure if there's a marine varnish that will be totally clear so as to not affect the colours in a paint job.

[Semper Fortis]

Wow, really creative idea! One thing you might want to consider is, as mentioned above, it will get a good bit of shaking. Pinning of joints is probably in order, but you may want to use brass instead of the old snip-of-paperclip method. It would be a shame if a joint loosened and then started to rust.

 

In regards marine varnish, I spent some quality time refinishing decking, railings, masts, etc. in the past. Every marine varnish I've ever used has a yellow hue to it, as my many stained sweatshirts will attest. That's not a problem with wood but would change the colors on your mini. There is a sealing product I've seen mentioned on military modeling forums. Can't recall the name at the moment, but will look around and see if I can find it.