AK interactive corrosion texture

[D3L]

I was very excited to pick this up the other day, even though it was a little bit pricey, I'd heard so much good stuff about AK products

 

I must be having a bit a mad 24 hours, because apart from using it as a texture paint, I can't actually figure what it's intended for, it has way more texture than something like Typhus corrosion, and it appears the wrong scale for 28mm 'corrosion', these particles are as large as the fine beach sand i can whip up with some PVA...

 

Am I wrong? Am I misinterpreting what to do with it? Teach me the error of my ways, or just show me what can be done with the corrosion texture!

 

TIA

 

(I can't actually seem to find any tutorials that contain this exact product...)

[quinnwolf]

Can you post a picture of what it looks like currently?

[D3L]

It's just sat in the pot at the moment, I played around with some balsa wood to see what it comes out as... And I'm just not so sure that its effective for its intended role

[Major_Gilbear]

Most of the AK effects products are not designed to just be applied as-is; rather, they are meant to be further worked with a clean brush and some solvent to produce the effects.

 

There is a similar-looking (although probably less gritty) product called Dark Rust Deposits, and there's a tutorial for it here. You might also find the official AK tutorials page here useful in general.

 

As daft as it sounds, it's very much worth just playing around with some of the stuff on some old models, not least because the placement and patterning takes a bit of practice to get it looking natural. Often, it's experience and practice more than specialist products that produces a convincing effect - I see lots of models that have nicely-applied but unconvincing weathering effects on them.

[D3L]

Most of the AK effects products are not designed to just be applied as-is; rather, they are meant to be further worked with a clean brush and some solvent to produce the effects.

 

There is a similar-looking (although probably less gritty) product called Dark Rust Deposits, and there's a tutorial for it here. You might also find the official AK tutorials page here useful in general.

 

As daft as it sounds, it's very much worth just playing around with some of the stuff on some old models, not least because the placement and patterning takes a bit of practice to get it looking natural. Often, it's experience and practice more than specialist products that produces a convincing effect - I see lots of models that have nicely-applied but unconvincing weathering effects on them.

certainly is less gritty than this corrosion texture, I'm not kidding when I say it's beach sand with pva in a mousse 

 

I am indeed going to test it out with some old models, just dabbing it on a spatula didn't seem to give me anything nice, and certainly not the texture which was pictured on it's jar... that DRD looks more like what I was after though, * sigh*, 

[Arkhanist]

The example car on the product page does look a lot more like 1:24 scale or larger from the internal detail - which fits with the grain size being fine sand size.

 

 

40k heroic scale is a bit weird, but usually lies somewhere between 1:35 and 1:48. I suspect it's simply that it's designed for weathering larger vehicles and dioramas than 40k.

It might work for heavy rust effects on a big piece of terrain such as sector mechanicus, with more conventional sized rust pigments to fill it it a bit (such as the bottom of the door above)

 

It's such a shame modelmates shut down, their rust effects were easy, sexy rust in a bottle.

 

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HtPJM1LaLVQ/UR1Z-G36w-I/AAAAAAAADm4/3J08-4cJ_F8/s1600/IMG_5373+copy.jpg

[D3L]

* snip *

everything you say is probably true, the car is likely at a much larger scale, thus why these grains are like quinoa, darn my eyes for not noticing when I picked it up, I just saw rusty colours and thought I was winning when I bought it!

 

That model mate thing looks mint, I wonder if the Dark Rust Deposits is an adequate replacement, because that image you link with the Necron is bang-on what I'm looking to achieve

[Major_Gilbear]

With the various rust products, it's worth remembering that they are often meant to be used in combination rather than just on their own.

 

Fortunately, AK (and others) usually do sets like these which give you a range of products so that you can produce a variety of rust effects that each look more individual and less uniform. Afterall, most rust tends not to be uniform all over each area where it occurs in exactly the same way, and is one reason the effects look unconvincing when applied in this even manner.

[Arkhanist]

 

That model mate thing looks mint, I wonder if the Dark Rust Deposits is an adequate replacement, because that image you link with the Necron is bang-on what I'm looking to achieve

 

 

I have good news! I have a half pot of modelmates 'standard' rust effect left, and have been trying to conserve it. Turns out, modelmates shutdown due to low profits, but the parent company - which mostly does weathering products for costumes and TV sets - still does the liquid brushable rust effect. Which is awesome.

 

"For customers who use our products on models, it may be of interest to know that Dirty Down ageing spray is the same product as the old Modelmates weathering spray. Dirty Down rust effect is the same as the old Modelmates rust effect liquid/water soluble paint."

 

It is alas, not at all cheap because it's 250ml - which is probably enough rusty liquid to last a lifetime. Price I've found so far is £28 a bottle. (there are other suppliers globally who stock it), which is more than you'd spend on a rust pigment set.

 

That said - normally to get a good rust effect, you need a fairly decent mix of pigments, and usually some paint and washes - and more importantly, time and patience.

 

Modelmates you literally dab it on; dilute it with a little water to get a yellower effect, extra layers to darken it down, and it works really easily for spots of rust in crevices, as it does vary the colour itself as it dries. For larger areas it can benefit from a little texture, such as from dusting a bit of another pigment or using typhus corrosion. You can reduce the effect with a wet qtip if you overdo it. It also takes conventional acrylic washes really well, I usually do some quickshade strong ink (devlan mud equivalent) to add a bit of extra shade into the crevices.

 

It does smell strongly, there's something funky in there. You need to shake well before use and don't leave the lid open.

 

I don't have any handy pictures of it but this is the sort of thing you can do with it - literally this is just a layer of rust effect on a silver textured surface. You could easily chuck a wash on that, or dab on some more to get a darker shade in spots.

 

[D3L]

* SNIP *

Epic, because even though there is no stockist within 7,500 KM of me (I measured it), there is one in Berlin, where I'm off for a jolly next week, so that's nice

[Ahistorian]

Has anyone made any progress on 28mm AK corrosion? I just picked some up at Partizan and am now in OP's position.

[D3L]

I just used some on a leviathan's feet, it's still not doing it for me, I still can't see anything beyond gritty PVA, it may go on the back of DG spartan as part of the under chipping fluid rust, but other than that, it's going in the netherworld pile of unuseful stuff, the AK rust effects pack is much much better

[shaun03]

Straight out the jar isn't designed for 28mm figures, as you guys have be finding out, I ran in to similar issues with other texture gel in their range.  Shoot them Email as well their normally pretty helpful with their stuff.

 

A few tips and suggestions that I have found useful.

 

Thin it down with thinner, any airbrush thinner will work, and/or add flow improve, again any brand will work fine.  Don't use rubbing alcohol it will have nasty effects, and wont look right and can harm the paint job.

 

This will thin down the liquid pigments and flow easier the heavy grains of sand/grit etc, can be pulled out via tooth pick or if  your OCD some tweezers. When it dry, light brush with dry brush to loosen to the bigger segments and they will fall out, also at this stage you can add another layer of different color pigments to give extra effect and replace the lost in grit. 

 

This stuff was build in for diorama series, and can be overkill for 28mm stuff, on super heavy and terrain it fits nice, but requires some tweaking to add to the small stuff. I learn this lesson the hard way too, i pick up a few different types of the mud they have speed up basing a DKOK army i was working on and ended up spending more time trying to get to look right, than i would have if I just used the old method of doing it,

 

Regardless they still make top quality products.

[Paradogmatic]

 

That model mate thing looks mint, I wonder if the Dark Rust Deposits is an adequate replacement, because that image you link with the Necron is bang-on what I'm looking to achieve

 

I have good news! I have a half pot of modelmates 'standard' rust effect left, and have been trying to conserve it. Turns out, modelmates shutdown due to low profits, but the parent company - which mostly does weathering products for costumes and TV sets - still does the liquid brushable rust effect. Which is awesome.

 

"For customers who use our products on models, it may be of interest to know that Dirty Down ageing spray is the same product as the old Modelmates weathering spray. Dirty Down rust effect is the same as the old Modelmates rust effect liquid/water soluble paint."

 

It is alas, not at all cheap because it's 250ml - which is probably enough rusty liquid to last a lifetime. Price I've found so far is £28 a bottle. (there are other suppliers globally who stock it), which is more than you'd spend on a rust pigment set.

 

That said - normally to get a good rust effect, you need a fairly decent mix of pigments, and usually some paint and washes - and more importantly, time and patience.

 

Modelmates you literally dab it on; dilute it with a little water to get a yellower effect, extra layers to darken it down, and it works really easily for spots of rust in crevices, as it does vary the colour itself as it dries. For larger areas it can benefit from a little texture, such as from dusting a bit of another pigment or using typhus corrosion. You can reduce the effect with a wet qtip if you overdo it. It also takes conventional acrylic washes really well, I usually do some quickshade strong ink (devlan mud equivalent) to add a bit of extra shade into the crevices.

 

It does smell strongly, there's something funky in there. You need to shake well before use and don't leave the lid open.

 

I don't have any handy pictures of it but this is the sort of thing you can do with it - literally this is just a layer of rust effect on a silver textured surface. You could easily chuck a wash on that, or dab on some more to get a darker shade in spots.

 

 

I hadn't seen that product before -- its quite convincing. I'll have to see if I can manage to get my hands on some overseas.

[netminder69]

I saw something recently where some put some steel wool in a container and then vinegar. It rusts the steel wool so you can literally paint rust onto your model. If you try it just do it outside as it gasses quite a bit when it’s reacting.

[D3L]

right, so what do we cover with the rest of this left over mouse then? bases?

[Ahistorian]

I am considering using it for a 15mm Mars project

[D3L]

I am considering using it for a 15mm Mars project

I say, any tips for working with this goo then?

 

I emailed them, through their customer service address, asking how it "should be used" as it's one of the only products where there isn't a video or book covering the use of it

[Ahistorian]

 

I am considering using it for a 15mm Mars project

I say, any tips for working with this goo then?

 

I emailed them, through their customer service address, asking how it "should be used" as it's one of the only products where there isn't a video or book covering the use of it

 

Ah, I meant as a basing texture. I've been sticking with the classic Typhus/Ryza at the moment for detail work.