How would I paint a sorcerous glow?

[Stoic Raptor]

I'm doing bases for my Custodes army, using the Shattered Dominion bases.  I'm aiming for a Tizca sort of theme, gold and marble and such.  For the cracks, rather than the usual lava effect that people usually use, I wanted to go with something like blue sorcerous energy emanating from the cracks.

 

I tried something like the plasma glow effect but the end result looked too much like water.  Maybe I'm using the wrong colors, and/or the wrong technique.

 

Can someone suggest a method, or point me to a tutorial or video? (I do not have and don't wish to get an airbrush).

  Thank you.

Edited March 4, 2018 by Knight of Lupus

[NiceGuyAdi]

I reckon base in bright blue, lay over crackle medium, paint the cracks in your base colour, then use something like Vallejo Transparent blue for the glow effect. Subtle Discord used it for OSL effects on his AdMech and it looked great. I haven't tried it myself yet, though.

 

I suspect the Citadel gemstone paints are very similar to the Vallejo Transparents, as well, but haven't found anything backing that up.

[Major_Gilbear]

I'm doing bases for my Custodes army, using the Shattered Dominion bases.  I'm aiming for a Tizca sort of theme, gold and marble and such.  For the cracks, rather than the usual lava effect that people usually use, I wanted to go with something like blue sorcerous energy emanating from the cracks.

 

I tried something like the plasma glow effect but the end result looked too much like water.  Maybe I'm using the wrong colors, and/or the wrong technique.

 

Actually, painted in the same manner as a lava glow *should* work, as most lava glow effects are basically an Object Source Lighting painting effect. If it hasn't worked for you, I can only suppose that the OSL wasn't quite correct (as these sorts of techniques require pretty specific colour placement to work).

 

Would you mind posting a picture of your efforts please? It would be much easier to see what you've done, and therefore assess; it might well be something really simple to change or fix.

[Stoic Raptor]

I have never really tried my hand at OSL (I know that without an airbrush it would involve drybrushing) but I didn't duplicate the steps that one would do with lava either - in fact, not really sure how to do that either.

 

But here's what I've got:

[Subtle Discord]

You're on the right track and you've got the right idea but in my opinion, you need a bit more soft deep/dark blue just outside of what you've got to give it the simulated 'volume' to the OSL effect. With OSL always remember that the light is emanating out from the source and will strike the first object/edge/detail intensely (mimicking the source) with a translucent deep/dark glow of the colour fading away outside of the bright reflected light. This translucent 'staining' of the surface will generally also follow the object/edge/detail but it can be a bit looser as it represents the light on the surface and the volumetric glow of the light 'in the air' as it were. I find it's the dark staining of the colour as much as the bright casting light that help sell the OSL effect. Also remember it is a painted effect, so it's going to look great under certain lighting conditions and not always as effective in the less ideal light.

 

An airbriush isn't needed to get good results. I use one less than half of the time I'm trying to create the effect, personally. If you don't have the transparent paints that were suggested earlier (they're surprisingly good and simple to use) then you can use a wash or glaze (better option) or paint thinned with acrylic medium. Make sure whatever you use is quite thin and put it on lightly at first; stain the area and have a damp brush at hand to soften the outside edge. On larger effects build up the colour a bit closer to the light source. Then shift to the bright colours cast by the light to hit the primary object/edge/detail that's catching the most light. Yes, it will take practice to get it convincing and smaller details are easier to pull off. Remember that the light is emanating out and it'll hit whatever it reaches first, with the darker stain surrounding that; that includes things like the toes of the dreadnaught.

[Stoic Raptor]

Thanks! That's super helpful, I may have to pick up those transparent paints.  I tried a glaze before but it just made it look like water - I am having a hard time making it clear to the observer that it's a glow, not water.  I like the look you've achieved with your work. I'll also have to see if I can find some videos for brush-painting OSL - any recommendations?

Edited March 5, 2018 by Knight of Lupus

[Arkhanist]

A glaze is basically thinner than a wash, maybe twice as translucent. But they do differ a little; you want a wash to sink into the crevices, while a glaze you want to settle evenly.  You also use a glaze to build up an effect; rather than slop it on and done, you build up a subtler transition effect with multiple layers, so the colour is strongest where you put the most layers. This works well for an OSL effect, as you glaze a wider area, then concentrate subsequent layers closer to the light source.

 

GW do a blue glaze paint, guilliman blue, which is fairly decent and should work for your instance. You can also pick up pre-made glaze medium - vallejo do one - to convert standard acrylics into glazes nicely, i.e. a little paint and a lot of glaze medium. You can't use just water, as you start to dilute the binder in the paint too much which causes adhesion problems, so you do need additional mediums to make your own glaze medium. (having done it, isn't worth the effort unless you're doing it a lot)

 

In addition to glazing the areas around the cracks to strength the glow effect, you should really do it up onto the legs of the miniature too where they're right next to the cracks which will help sell the effect. The fundamental rules of OSL are -

- brightest, lightest colour at the source

- areas lit by the source must appear lighter than surrounding unlit areas

- fade the colour away in an equal radius from the source

- don't over do it

 

Here's a list of various OSL guides:

https://brokenpaintbrush.com/object-source-lighting-tutorials/

 

I personally like this series:

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/painting-glowing-powerfist.html

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2009/01/glowing-powerfist-part-2.html

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/glowing-powerfist-part-3.html

http://fromthewarp.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/hobby-focus-object-source-lighting.html

[Stoic Raptor]

Thank you for the advice.  I did a little bit of glazing and drybrushing (need to replace my Etherium Blue which has become a rubber ball) and applied Blue Horror to the cracks - I imagine the light is brightest there, almost white.

I brought it up onto the feet, probably not the best but I do think it's an improvement and I can refine the method as I read up and watch more and of course with practice.  I think it's better!

 

The tip I found most useful from that site is to use a colored LED to see where the light shines and how it would look!  No I just need to find a blue-white LED in some form that would be useful in those places.

Edited March 6, 2018 by Knight of Lupus

[Danny Cyanide]

Huge improvment! Great job!

[Stoic Raptor]

Thanks!  Here's the base I'll be using for my Vexilla:

 

Working on the feet and lower parts of the model that would be lit by the cracks before I mount it.

[Xenith]

Check the jump pack thrusters on my death company, page 18 or so of my plog.

 

Basic OSL effect darker blue over larger area, work lighter colours in toward the centre.