How to achieve this damaged effect ?

[Vraxka]

Hi guys!

 

I came across this Blood Raven model earlier and I think it looks awesome really dig the realism. I've seen a few ways on how to do wear and tear/ damage but I've never seen damage quite like this Blood Raven.

 

http://knighterrant.weebly.com/uploads/8/8/6/6/88661820/365910974.jpg

 

Would anyone know the original source (found this on relic forums) ,tutorial or have any pointers on how to achieve this look for damage ?

 

Thanks in advance.

[Brother Pheidias]

Looks like a combined effort with both sponging and scratching applied with a pencil. I did it on a Black Dragon once, didn't show up as well on the black.

[Vraxka]

Looks like a combined effort with both sponging and scratching applied with a pencil. I did it on a Black Dragon once, didn't show up as well on the black.

Nice. I never knew you could use a pencil,that's pretty neat. Do you base coat it silver and scratch the paint off with the pencil or is it the pencil it's self ?

 

If I were to do it my chapter's main color is black perhaps it may not work to well.

Thanks for the response :)

[Naryn]

The technique just involves a fine-tipped pencil, you’re drawing the marks on in graphite not scratching anything off. The pauldrons also look like they might have been lightly oil washed, although i could be mistaken. That’s an insanely good mini though, i’ve never seen weathering like that. The legs especially are insane.

[Vraxka]

The technique just involves a fine-tipped pencil, you’re drawing the marks on in graphite not scratching anything off. The pauldrons also look like they might have been lightly oil washed, although i could be mistaken. That’s an insanely good mini though, i’ve never seen weathering like that. The legs especially are insane.

 

Ah ok, I'm new to this sort of technique never knew of it since yesterday it sounds really neat. :)

Yeah the person who did it did a incredible job I agree with the legs and even the front of the boots.

[Major_Gilbear]

You can also acheive the same effect with a splayed brush and a little paint - like drybrushing, but the paint is a little wetter and is applied much more lightly. You also have to control the direction of brush strokes too, to get the directional criss-cross effect you see above. It also helps if you use a very sharp brush with a little paint to add a few additional flicks and scratches to enhance the look and define it a bit better. Some painters do all the scratches exclusively with a sharp brush though (see Ben Komets' work for good examples of where this technique is used more sparingly to suggest different material textures). To my eye, it looks like effects were done with paint in this manner.

 

You can acheive effects like this with pencils too (graphite pencils for more metal are popular with the historical modellers), and can even use artist's pencils that are designed to be washed over with a damp brush to "run" a little like a watercolour effect (sometimes called watercolour pencils). If you do pencil weathering, I would suggest sealing the model before and after the weathering would be a sensible choice - the first to protect the paint from being lifted by the pencil when applied, and the second to seal the whole model for protection as you would normally.

[Vraxka]

You can also acheive the same effect with a splayed brush and a little paint - like drybrushing, but the paint is a little wetter and is applied much more lightly. You also have to control the direction of brush strokes too, to get the directional criss-cross effect you see above. It also helps if you use a very sharp brush with a little paint to add a few additional flicks and scratches to enhance the look and define it a bit better. Some painters do all the scratches exclusively with a sharp brush though (see Ben Komets' work for good examples of where this technique is used more sparingly to suggest different material textures). To my eye, it looks like effects were done with paint in this manner.

 

You can acheive effects like this with pencils too (graphite pencils for more metal are popular with the historical modellers), and can even use artist's pencils that are designed to be washed over with a damp brush to "run" a little like a watercolour effect (sometimes called watercolour pencils). If you do pencil weathering, I would suggest sealing the model before and after the weathering would be a sensible choice - the first to protect the paint from being lifted by the pencil when applied, and the second to seal the whole model for protection as you would normally.

 

Thanks very much for the reply and info much appreciated. I'll be sure to check out Ben Komet's work and try put the technique to the test :)

[PeteySödes]

Wonderful effect! Im going to have to add this to the toolbox.

[Vraxka]

Wonderful effect! Im going to have to add this to the toolbox.

Let me know how it goes, would love to see how it goes :)

[Blissful Brushes]

Other way you can get something similar is to:

1) paint the model bare metal

2) seal it - satin varnish ideally

3) chipping fluid - takes about 10 mins to dry

4) paint the armour as you would normally

5) go over the armour with a tooth pic or needle for small scratches, lightly brush with a toothbrush for patches of damage

[Venerable Jazzman]

Original source, and more piccies - https://knighterrant.weebly.com/home/blood-raven

 

That is a lovely model

 

More of the same style - https://knighterrant.weebly.com/home/speeezz-marineeezin-pink

[Paradogmatic]

Other way you can get something similar is to:

1) paint the model bare metal

2) seal it - satin varnish ideally

3) chipping fluid - takes about 10 mins to dry

4) paint the armour as you would normally

5) go over the armour with a tooth pic or needle for small scratches, lightly brush with a toothbrush for patches of damage

Yeah I was going to say the shoulders reminded me somewhat of this :

 

That and a lot of directionality with brush strokes to create the scratches