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Pinning kits?


Tyriks

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What pinning kits (or rods by themselves) have people found to work well? I've just been using paperclips when I've had to pin, but they aren't a perfect fit so I have been cheating by putting a thin coat of glue over the metal and letting it dry before using it. I pre-ordered the Seraptek Heavy Construct and I don't want to risk messing it up with stuff like that. My FLGS only had the Army Painter kit and I've had no fondness for their products, everything seems to break easily or be fundamentally flawed. Are there kits or brands people swear by?
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I’ve always sworn by drilling a 1mm hole a little deeper than it needs to be, squishing in a tiny blob of green stuff and then using paper clip wire. There are probably better wires at more accurate sizes, but paper clips are so ubiquitous and cheap that it never seemed worth the extra cash.
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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm not a fan of paperclips as they're mostly made of steel. That can dent or at least blunt clippers as it's a hard metal; I have to dig out my heavy duty snips so I don't damage my light side cutters that can handle plastic and brass rod no problem. I also usually prefer a slightly thinner rod, 1/32" (~0.79mm), as it's easier to bend into position when securing feet or the hole needs to be at an angle due to lack of material straight on. I then use a 0.8mm drill bit, which is slightly larger than 1/32" rod; I reverse rotate the drill bit a few times to make sure all the swarf is out. I've got some 1mm brass for heavy joints, though a pair of thinner pins can also make sense as it helps prevent rotational stress around a single pin on a flat joint.

 

I usually put a little blob of normal superglue at the tip of the rod, one on the hole, and that usually coats the side of the pin as it goes in. If I need to secure it more, I wick in some thin superglue using a glue looper, then just snip to length once it's dry. A dab of wet paint/ink on the tip of the secured pin will tell you where the hole needs to go on the 2nd part. Repeat hole and glue for the other side, along with appropriate glue for the rest of the joint (usually wicked tamiya extra thin if it's plastic).

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