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Painting Ultramarines with Vallejo Paint


BloodWolves

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Hey all, My FLGS just got in some Vallejo base spray paint.

Has anyone used them before? Im debating between Ultramarine Blue spray or the Magic Blue.

If anyone has any pictures comparing the 2 please post them!

 

For Macragge!

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/gallery/image/253544-screenshot-20190212-025703-gallery/

 

What I am aiming for!

I use Imperial Blue as a base coat, then magic blue for 1st highlight, ice blue for second highlight.  Overspray ultramarine blue for tint.

 

Ultramarine Blue winds up being closer to purple, whereas Magic Blue is VERY bright essentially GW Caledor Sky.  I don't think either of them is going to create the color you're looking for outright.  My guess would be Magic Blue with a blue/black wash.

That pic you linked isn't the usual posterboy blue.
I can just echo what has been said, it leans more towards Imperial Blue (which I've used for my UMs as well) and is way darker than any paint available in a spray can.
Ultramarine is quite purple, Magic is simply too light.


gallery_106102_15258_28539.jpeg


Imperial blue is a seriously nice color up close, so you should go with it anyway :wink:
For the rest of that scheme, I'd really try to match that very interesting gold - try mixing equal parts of Gunmetal Metal and Glorious Gold for that.

Careful with the edge highlights though - in the pics, that's more of a light grey or white than any light blue. Try Ghost Grey and Dead White side by side to see which results you like better.
Make sure the brush isn't too loaded, go for drybrushing amounts instead. Those edge highlights are a tad transparent, not slathered on there fully opaque.

The lighter areas on the armor look like either a drybrush with a mix of the base color and white or a drybrush with white and a very watery last layer of the base color over the whole mini after that.

The recesses have simply been washed black.

And here's a little piece of advice quite contrary to common consent:

Forget highlights and washes and stuff. GW tells you to light your minis in a way that prevents any natural shadow from appearing (as a professional camera guy and lighting tech, I can tell you that's not usually the way to do it) and highlights and washes are there to recreate natural contrast in that completely artificial light you won't ever find on any gaming table anyway.
To what end do they do that? So they can sell you 3 paints for every color you have on your models.

Been there, done that, and let's be honest: edge highlights only look good on pics anyway.

Pick 4 colors instead, like blue, gold, silver and black, and spend the time you'd usually take to color in every recess in black and every edge in white to pick out details on the armor in those colors instead.

Don't have a blue belt with a blue buckle and light edges, go for a black belt with a silver buckle instead.
Don't have a blue back module with blue heat grilles and blue exhausts, dare to go for some silver metal pieces!
Just don't have a giant blue blob that gets interesting because you took so much time making the edges white because that's the widely accepted practice. Instead, have a lavishly detailed mini in the same time for 1/3 the $ on paint.
And the next time you take a pic of your minis, don't light them flat to death. While you can't exactly do a 3 point lighting with indirect fill in your living room (as proven by my paint pic), you can put them in a reasonably bright room, try not to stand between them and the main light source and take a pic. You'll be surprised. :wink:

I use "Ultramarines blue" as base, then mix 1:1 "Ultramarines blue" to "Electric blue" to highlight, then pure "electric blue" to fine highlights. Then "glacier blue" for points of light.

 

http://garreth.spb.ru/photo_2018-04-09_19-08-44.jpg

http://garreth.spb.ru/photo_2018-04-09_19-08-49.jpg

I use "Ultramarines blue" as base, then mix 1:1 "Ultramarines blue" to "Electric blue" to highlight, then pure "electric blue" to fine highlights. Then "glacier blue" for points of light.

That sounds quite fetching. Pics please :)

@Garreth A small detail I like is how the grenade launcher guy is angling his gun to shoot up (while also angling some of his torso as well to aid in the process). It's a really small touch but looks really good to the eye that spots that he is carrying a grenade launcher.

I will look into that Imperial Blue from Vallejo. Do you have a picture with it based by itself? I just want to compare it to Kantor Blue and Macragge Blue. I am going to try other paints than GW as thats all I have ever used.

 

Im going to try..

- Basing in Macragge Blue.

- Wash over twice w/ Nuln Oil.

- Drybrush lightly w/ Caledor Sky.

- Edge highlight w/ Calgar Blue & Fenrisian Grey.

I prime with Vallejo Surface Primer Ultramarine, basecoat with Vallejo Model Color Ultramarine, highlight with Army Painter Electric Blue and then extreme highlight with Vallejo Game Color Wolf Grey. Not very dark, but I find this combination to be pretty close to how I used to paint my Ultras in the 90's using GW's Ultramarine Blue :)

Scout wip for example along with the paints.

gallery_73823_12932_21633.jpg

Game color ultramarine blue is more purple than blue, this was frustrating while searching for a base color, after testing 10 blues from vallejo line, I have found my holy trinity 

 

Prussian blue Model Color
Medium Blue  Model Color

Magic Blue     Game Color

 

For Edge/Extreme highlight use "sky blue", I like to give it dimension by changing the tone of my edge highlight according to shadows and ligths, mix it with Magic blue for edge highlight shadows or white for that extreme edge highlight on your lights.

 

33443290_1807512732888652_10178966405827
 
  • 2 weeks later...

@Daigo Cannon those are so good! How do you paint those marines? Do you layer them over?

 

I start with layer, once I have defined my light and shadow I start using glazes to smooth the transitions between them. Thanks for the comment, I have to say, each guy took me around 20-25 hours. They have so many details, doing  blues on the armor is the easy part now.

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