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GW Mephiston Red spray is garbage, so what do you use?


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I used to use Krylon reddish brown but I got a can of Rustoleum "Ultra Matte" red to try on a couple of Primaris tanks.  I used it on some 3d printed plastic first and it went on clean so I'll use it once I'm ready.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-American-Accents-2X-Ultra-Cover-Ultra-Matte-Red-Currant-Spray-Paint-and-Primer-in-1-12-oz/854876945?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2853&adid=22222222227277344430&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=334810179579&wl4=pla-645657548294&wl5=9008150&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=854876945&wl13=2853&veh=sem&gclid=CISXyJ-p2OICFc-CswodcHgE-w

 

Also Rustoleum's aluminum primer is pretty nice, it's much brighter than Leadbelcher but at $4 a can it can be toned down with nuln oil.  I just sprayed a bunch of AT knights with it this morning and it covers great without wiping out detail.

I've had no problems with Meph Red, just make sure you're spraying it on over a black basecoat. 

 

lol. I'm applying it straight to gray models. It is a base, and they state that all of the base sprays are also primers.

 

It either gets fuzzy like Corax White, or goes on a weird lighter red, etc.

 

I've had no problems with Meph Red, just make sure you're spraying it on over a black basecoat. 

 

lol. I'm applying it straight to gray models. It is a base, and they state that all of the base sprays are also primers.

 

It either gets fuzzy like Corax White, or goes on a weird lighter red, etc.

 

 

It is a primer, but all that means is it will adhere decently to bare plastic. Red is one of those hard colours though, so it is a little translucent; that means you can see the underlying colour through it a little. Make that underlying colour black, and you'll get a darker result. The fuzziness is because GW don't use the harsher (but more effective) solvents, so it's more at risk of drying in the air. Shake it hard, avoid spraying when over 50% humidity, or temperature extremes, and at the recommended distance and that will improve your odds.

 

Alternatively, have a look at Army Painter Dragon Red spraycans. It's not magic either, but back before I used my airbrush it was my basecoat for Blood Angels. (Pure red is a lighter alternative)

 

cp3018_600x450px_1.jpg

I can't say I've had too many problems with it. Yes it's a little bright, but a layer or two of carroburg crimson sorts that out quite nicely. I'll admit you need to do it in the right conditions though or else it will dry in the air on the way to the model.

If I need to use Mephiston Red spray, I use it over Mournfang Brown spray, which I deliberately bought a few of back when it went EOL. This is all over black primer of course.

 

I use this method because I find red straight over black to be a bit thin, and it's easy to overspray to get coverage, whereas the brown gives it a really nice richness. You've got to be careful, obviously, because it's very easy to lose detail with three different coats of rattlecan paint, but for vehicles with lots of flat panels it actually works really well, IMHO.

It's also worth warming the can up by soaking it in warm (not too hot or boiling) water and then shaking it for at least a few minutes. And making sure it's not too hot/cold/humid outside.

I've never had any issues with the GW coloured sprays but obviously spraying has its pitfalls.

Halfords white.

 

What? ;)

 

Joking aside, if you have an airbrush why not consider the method LutherMax (and numerous other members in BA land) uses which builds up numerous layers from a zenithal start point?

If he had an airbrush why would he ask about spray cans? My mind is blown here...

 

Because just using any base colour as a main colour, air brush or rattle can on straight grey plastic, resin or metal is a rookie move even if it says on the product it can do it. It just never works out. Any kind of pre-base colour is always the way to go for a good finish. 

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