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Apothecary White and Guilliman flesh paint


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Anyone else had their "white" paint being more grey? Mine looks more like the Grey Seer undercoat colour. Just wondering if mine is defective or if it is meant to be a light grey instead. 

 

Also my Guilliman flesh paint looks a little pale as well, nothing like the old GW paints, my old scheme was bugmans glow, cadian flesh then Reikland fleshshade wash. Did i get the wrong flesh? 

 

Any help from the B&C community would be appreciated :) 

Apothecary white isn't a white, its more of a shade than the other contrast paints and will only work over very pale colours (which should include grey seer but I haven't tried it myself).

 

I'd expect a contrast colour to not match any random formula just as it takes a lot of care to get matching results from any two methods. Whether or not a flesh colour is right for you is going to be personal choice. Guilliman flesh is certainly the palest contrast flesh colour.

Yer I have tried shaking it a lot, it seems to have a hard white layer on the bottom of the tub. Going to take it into a GW when I get the chance and see what they say.

 

Yer think I made a mistake and got the wrong flesh, oops. Going to try and paint the flesh zandri dust and wash over it and see what that does next

Guilliman flesh looks odd in the pot, but produces a 'normal' looking flesh result over grey seer, very similar to bugman + cadian + reikland. You can use with kislev flesh or equivalent to add the extra highlights for cheekbones etc, at which point I can't tell the difference on faces which is a nice timesaver! Fireslayer flesh is more red tinged for a ruddy effect (ideal for dwarves, hence the name!) while darkoath is paler and has a more yellowish tint. For a more pale skin tone for any of them, do over white and/or thin with contrast medium.

 

For apothecary white, it's supposed to be a light grey in the pot, but is pretty translucent going on so doesn't stain the surface much. It's designed to do a blue-grey crevice shade over grey seer or straight white. Over white flat surfaces, you will either need to apply carefully to avoid pooling, or layer the flat bits with white/near white to get that very light surface. Mine had some white at the bottom, but that mostly went after adding a ball bearing shaker.

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