super mega terrain discussion

[The silent but deadly king]

I posted this is the necrontyr forum but for those poor people who don't play necrons and don't go to it i'll share it here because i'm such a nice guy.

https://www.instructables.com/DIY-Starwars-Sith-Wayfinder/

of course i see it as a necron terrain piece, but i could see it as eldar with the right alterations. it could be an imperial terrain piece i suppose, and maybe just generic alien terrain. So yes it's a quick easy effective terrain piece, maybe better if made with foamcore instead of cardboard, but painted cardboard will do.

[mughi3]

Ok here it is- the finished forges of mars terrain

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[The silent but deadly king]

Does anyone here know how to cut foamcoare at a 45d angle?

[mughi3]

Back with a quick update-

 

The 40K train terrain

 

 

 

 

How it looks on the completed table.

 

 

 

 

 

[Kierdale]

I don't think you've mentioned Battle Kiwi yet, so here's a piece I bought recently:

A couple of weeks ago, I think it was on Instagram, I found the company `Battle Kiwi`, that makes pre-primed laser cut terrain (some with cool acrylic inserts/bits) plus tokens, templates and stuff.

Here's their website:

https://battlekiwi.com

It was the `Immortal Dynasty` series (#cough#Necrons#cough#) that grabbed my attention as I'm modeling my Orks fighting on a Tomb World. I got myself a `Nexus Sentinel` for NZ $25 (pretty good, I think) which is 6 1/4" tall and 3 1/8" wide.

The MDF was nice and smoothly primed black (except for the edges). The clear acrylic sheets are covered in a protective film on both sides to protect them, which is a nice touch. The MDF pieces came out of the sheets easily and it was easy to put together as a dry-fit. I'm going to spray the MDF bits metallic before I actually glue it together though.

Oh, another nice thing is that you can put a light inside as there's a hole in the base.

Weathered up, it’s done!

I painted very thinned down Iron Oxide paint into (some, not all) crevices, and gave it a drybrushing as only the former would have looked like water staining. The drybrush helps to make it look dustier, but only doing a drybrush would have put red dust on edges and not in crevices, which is the opposite of what we want. Dirt’s going to build up in deep parts, not on edges.

After gluing it together I hit it with some ‘Mars powder’ (ground up artist’s pastel, which I’ll need to seal when the weather permits).

I’m well happy with it.

It was very reasonable and turned out great.

[mughi3]

That turned out nice. i have generally moved away from MDF due to durability issues during storage and frequent transport, especially with the quality 3d printing has reached. 

[ThePenitentOne]

I posted this elsewhere, so sorry if folks have already seen it.

 

I'm building 15 x 15 tiles, which will allow me to hit all the table sizes. In fact, my system will allow me to play Incursion level games on a 45 x 45 table instead of using the same size as Combat Patrol. I'm using layered foam core with cut in recesses which contain drinking straw pipes and maybe even an LED or two on a few of the boards. The recesses will be covered by panels made from plasticard and nylon mesh- most will be fixed, but I may leave one or two removeable to represent objectives and such.

 

To test the concept, I drew rough miniature mock-ups of the boards on graph paper, cut them out and glued them to cereal box cardboard. These are very rough, but I wanted a fast, easy way to test to see whether or not the design was versatile. Here are some mock-up battle boards for different sized games:

 

 

I will be making buildings with detailed interiors and stackable levels to sit on these tiles too, but I need to build 6 of the 18 tiles first.