Question on applying Gloss Varnish

[Quantum]

Hi all,

 

In order to make my models a bit more durable, I wanted to apply a fully covering layer of Vallejo Gloss varnish over some models (which is then to be followed by Citadel Purity Seal from a can to make it matt).

 

However, when I applied it, it formed droplets on the model (much like a wash) that were white and opaque, completely obscuring the paint scheme underneath. I managed to scrape these white dots from the model, but not without damage to the paint scheme.

 

Is there a way to prevent this? I already tied watering it down, but that only seems to make it more 'foamy'. Or have I been too impatient and should I have given the varnish more time to settle and turn transparent? Or it the Purity Seal sufficient and can I do without the varnish?  

[Imren]

You will have best results if you dilute the varnish 1:1 with airbrush thinner and apply two thin coats with an airbrush with half an hour between the coats for drying.

 

If you don't have an airbrush then I suggest that you again dilute it 1:1 and apply two thin coats with a paintbrush instead. Bottom line is that you thin/dilute it, and apply thin coats that doesn't allow for pooling.

[Quantum]

Well, things have made a turn for the worst.

 

I decided to skip the gloss varnish entirely, and just use Purity Seal instead.

 

It was a disaster. 

 

My Skitarii with the paint scheme I was very proud off look like they passed through a blizzard. 

 

Don't know why it happened. The can hadn't been used for a long time (though I did shake it for just under a minute). It had rained that day so perhaps the moisture level in the atmosphere was high. Or perhaps I applied too much (while spraying, it was hard to see how it distributes over the model), as I saw no misty effect when spraying, but it appeared with a vengeance afterwards.

 

Adding a layer of Gloss Varnish or 'Ardcoat did not help. However, I've had some success with applying olive oil. Covering the affected areas (i.e. the entire model) in olive oil, letting it set for a hour or so, followed by vigorous brushing with a drybrush removed most of the chalkiness of the brushed areas while keeping the paint intact. It is labor-intensive, as after a single treatment there are still many white areas left, so I will probably need to repeat the procedure twice. The main issue here is that after you applied the oil, the white areas are no longer visible so it is impossible to see which surfaces are clean and which still need cleaning/brushing. Only after washing off the oil and drying the model can you see which areas are still affected. 

[Imren]

I advise you to get into airbrushing if you haven't yet. In the long run it's cheaper than buying overpriced spray cans that give you barely any control over the spraypattern and amount sprayed and you won't have this kind of issues. Airbrush save you lot of time when it comes to do priming, base coating and varnishing at a superior paint job quality level compared to spray cans.

[Rik Lightstar]

Also, it's worth noting that with plastic models and a primer you shouldn't really need to be using 2 types of varnish. Gaming shouldn't be THAT rough on your figures.

 

Unless of course you like transporting your models in a shoebox with no padding.

 

Rik

[Quantum]

Also, it's worth noting that with plastic models and a primer you shouldn't really need to be using 2 types of varnish. Gaming shouldn't be THAT rough on your figures.

 

Unless of course you like transporting your models in a shoebox with no padding.

 

Rik

 

What can I say; I like to overengineer things. 

 

Too bad that, for varnishing models at least, I haven't got the regular engineering right yet.

[Rik Lightstar]

 

 

Also, it's worth noting that with plastic models and a primer you shouldn't really need to be using 2 types of varnish. Gaming shouldn't be THAT rough on your figures.

 

Unless of course you like transporting your models in a shoebox with no padding.

 

Rik

What can I say; I like to overengineer things.

 

Too bad that, for varnishing models at least, I haven't got the regular engineering right yet.

Every step you add to a process is a possible point of failure, if you're varnishing twice, that's doubling your chance of it going wrong.

 

Two light coats of purity seal or any other satin varnish should be fine. Give the first one a full 24 hours to "cure" before you apply the second too.

 

Rik

[Kain Mor]

You really really should shake the can vigorously for the minimum time on the can. At the very least, though I often shake for 3-4 minutes.

[Quantum]

Thanks you all for the excellent advice.

 

In the future I'll skip the gloss varnish step, and will be much more careful when applying spray. That being said, I've read a lot of online comments that Citadel Purity Seal gives a lot of people problems, and that there a better brands available, so I'll probably replace my current can.

 

In case you are wondering, the second olive oil treatment completely fixed my models ( thank the Emperor...). Don't know if now there is any varnish left on the models to protect them, but for the time being I am not going to try my luck with another attempt.