Undercoat for yellow - how is Wraithbone Spray?

[Burni]

How’s everyone finding Wraithbone spray? I realise it’s a lighter colour so the coverage won’t be as good as a dark colour, but how thin is it? Do you need a lot of thin coats over grey plastic? Is it very similar to GW’s white spray? And I’ve heard it is more satin, does that cause issues with non contrast paints?

 

I planning for painting my Bad Moonz Flyboyz for AI. I would have done them Averland Sunset but can’t get that spray anymore. I do have some Zandri Dust which might work okay as a base for yellow?

 

I’ve looked at the Army Painter yellow sprays but a lot of people say they are really bitty and chalky and have bad coverage.

[Zhiv]

How’s everyone finding Wraithbone spray? I realise it’s a lighter colour so the coverage won’t be as good as a dark colour, but how thin is it? Do you need a lot of thin coats over grey plastic? Is it very similar to GW’s white spray? And I’ve heard it is more satin, does that cause issues with non contrast paints?

 

I planning for painting my Bad Moonz Flyboyz for AI. I would have done them Averland Sunset but can’t get that spray anymore. I do have some Zandri Dust which might work okay as a base for yellow?

 

I’ve looked at the Army Painter yellow sprays but a lot of people say they are really bitty and chalky and have bad coverage.

 

 

I use the army painter  - over army painter white.  But you need to shake both cans the 90 seconds, spray at can length and have the right humidity or it goes  .  Also on top of that you want to hand paint one layer of yellow to make it pop.

 

I have also done yellow with army painter skeleton bone with GW yelloe glaze.. and it worked fine, the result was bit dull though. 

[Burni]

Cheers Zhiv. Yeah, I always do a base coat over the flat colour spray incase I need to touch up later. Maybe I’ll give the Army Painter a go then. I should be able to do so spraying in the garage which should be a more stable environment

[Marshal Vespasian]

Spray cans fare better if you put them in warm water or next to the Radiator before use. (dont heat them so they might blow up, just keep them slightly warm) and then use outside. In yohr Garage it will hopefully be less humid then your garden or wherelse you might prime.

[Bryan Blaire]

Spray cans fare better if you put them in warm water or next to the Radiator before use. (dont heat them so they might blow up, just keep them slightly warm) and then use outside. In yohr Garage it will hopefully be less humid then your garden or wherelse you might prime.

Agreed, I've had fantastic luck using a measuring cup full of tap-hot water (just hot enough so you can put your fingers in it without being really uncomfortable) and letting it heat for about 5-6 minutes - BCK showed me how to do it and I've had fantastically smooth undercoats with any color, including white, beige, and a sandy tan.

 

I prime & undercoat just outside the garage and don't do it at any time it's over 80 F, and the day before its projected to rain, raining, or the day after it rains, and it seems to work exactly as needed.

[Zhiv]

 

Spray cans fare better if you put them in warm water or next to the Radiator before use. (dont heat them so they might blow up, just keep them slightly warm) and then use outside. In yohr Garage it will hopefully be less humid then your garden or wherelse you might prime.

Agreed, I've had fantastic luck using a measuring cup full of tap-hot water (just hot enough so you can put your fingers in it without being really uncomfortable) and letting it heat for about 5-6 minutes - BCK showed me how to do it and I've had fantastically smooth undercoats with any color, including white, beige, and a sandy tan.

 

I prime & undercoat just outside the garage and don't do it at any time it's over 80 F, and the day before its projected to rain, raining, or the day after it rains, and it seems to work exactly as needed.

 

 

Do you just run hot water on them from the tap or do you sing them occasionally into a large pot filled with hot water?

[Bryan Blaire]

Do you just run hot water on them from the tap or do you sing them occasionally into a large pot filled with hot water?

I use a tall, clear measuring cup that I put about 1.25L of water into. When the cans are full, they usually submerge themselves about 1/2 to 3/4s of the way, but after they've been used, they tend to float more, so I rigged a small stick from the garage that helps hold them down into the water.

 

Take the can out after 5-6 minutes, dry it off, and give it a good shaking for 1-2 minutes, and then start spraying before you move the can across the model and stop spraying after the paint stream is off the model. It took me a few models to get it down, but it works great!

 

You'll only need to warm a can once a session and depending on how much you are going to spray, it may last until the can runs out. I wouldn't heat it too much.

 

BCK also showed me how to use hemostats (purchased cheaply from Amazon) to hold a pin in the model part you are spraying, use disposable gloves to keep your hands from getting paint all over them, and viola - damn near perfect prime and undercoat results. Also make sure you turn the can upside down and spray until the paint stream blows no color after you are finished using the spray can for the day, keeps the nozzle from clogging.

 

I've also started using blu-tac to cover glue joins, just use a small amount and then peel it off very carefully after you are done spraying and the coats are all dry.

 

It really helps the spray go on more finely, which seems to help lighter colors (like yellow, white, and beiges/tans) a ton.

[Maritn]

I use the army painter - over army painter white. But you need to shake both cans the 90 seconds, spray at can length and have the right humidity or it goes . Also on top of that you want to hand paint one layer of yellow to make it pop.

 

I have also done yellow with army painter skeleton bone with GW yelloe glaze.. and it worked fine, the result was bit dull though.

I tried to use the AP spray as a base coat. Daemonic Yellow + Cassandora Yellow + edge highlight with Dorn Yellow gives a great warm yellow. That said, after practicing with four rattle cans without getting a nice coverage without losing the details, I'm never going to use AP sprays anymore.

[Slips]

Ive constantly done:

• Prime Black
• Averland
• Cassandora
• Yriel
• Cassandora

As a very basic "dark" yellow that I very much like. Contrast Nazdreg Yellow pretty much gives me similar results over Wraithbone Spray; either way I generally "highlight" by drybrushing silver over the edges of the mini because I dislike edge highlighting and want the scheme to look weathered a bit.

[Marshal Rohr]

Grey Seer seems to give a colder yellow that looks strong under the oil wash. Wraithbone is almost too warm.