Imperial Fists and Contrast paints

[Canadian_F_H]

Since i occasionally paint a fist or 2 and i havent seen a decent topic on the matter i figured this is the best place to ask.

 

1st it seams the only 2 contrast yellows are iyanden and nazdreg. Unfortunatly named for xenos but oh well.

 

Which of these do you think is best for Imperial Fists?

 

Suggestions for Crimson Fists welcome also. And feel free for any other successors, especially major/common ones, because that might help somebody out.

[Slips]

Some WIPs of mine:

 

Apothecary is Nazdreg Yellow, dead marine is Iyanden Yellow. Both one coat over Wraithbone.

 

[Red_Shift]

I've had mixed results with contrast. I've used Iyanden over wraithbone spray for vehicles and it is fantastic, it gets rid of the previous problems that I had with patchy colouring on large surface areas.

 

For infantry I'm sticking with my previous recipe of averland sunset, wash and paint with yellow. I've found contrast can rub off easily, sometimes doesn't stick in some areas, and on some colours (but not yellow!) can dry to a very thin looking coat that needs a shade and a drybrush (kind of negating the point of contrast).

 

The other thing I've found contrast useful for actually is beards, cloaks, fur and those other areas where it's ability to self texture is useful.

[Maritn]

I can take some pictures of my tests with Iyanden Yellow in the evening.

 

I've had mixed results with contrast. I've used Iyanden over wraithbone spray for vehicles and it is fantastic, it gets rid of the previous problems that I had with patchy colouring on large surface areas.

 

I'd love to see some pictures of your vehicles. I have only tested Contrast paints on infantry, and thought it might be too patchy.

[Lemondish]

Here's some I've done with contrast and some drybrush work. They aren't spectacular by any means as I'm an amateur painter, but I think they look solid.

 

http://imgur.com/gallery/lvp8vEQ

[Kastor Krieg]

The trick to non-patchiness is that you need to use the Contrast medium. No water, no acryllic medium. At least 3:1 paint to medium, best 1:1.

 

I'd use the brighter one, Iyanden, all over - then use the darker one, Nazdreg, to add shadows if needed.

 

They are also awesome on vehicles if you have an airbrush - as basically filters either over Wraithbone or similar or to reinforce the saturation of a previous yellow.

[Galron]

Iyanden yellow with a relatively light drybrush with one of the yellows (either the base or layer paint determines a lighter or darker tone) works great to make a nice solid scheme without the blotchiness.

[Lemondish]

Iyanden yellow with a relatively light drybrush with one of the yellows (either the base or layer paint determines a lighter or darker tone) works great to make a nice solid scheme without the blotchiness.

I've found success by also being very deliberate with the paint. Stroke towards where you want the darker bits for shadowing and do one armour panel at a time.

[Maritn]

So, here are my results so far (from left to right):

 

1. Iyanden Yellow over Wraithbone spray (1st test)

2. Iyanden Yellow over Wraithbone spray (2nd test)

3. Undercoated with Chaos Black spray, then roughly 45° angle Wraithbone spray applied. I don't think I will be using this method, as the legs are a little too dark for my taste.

4. & 5. (just for comparison) Undercoated with AP Daemonic Yellow spray, followed by a wash with Cassandora Yellow and Dorn Yellow edge highlight. AP spray was a PITA to use, so I'm not gonna do it again (unless maybe I decide to buy an airbrush).

 

The shadows look better (darker) with the Contrast method IMO, but it's a little bit harder to keep from pooling. But I think I just need a little bit more practice.

 

Edit: I think Iyanden is the best Contrast paint for Fists.

 

 

[BitsHammer]

I've taken to using Contrast as a glaze over a greyscale value sketch (fancy way of saying I paint my model in grey and white before I use the contrast) and it works great over regular paints as a glaze.

 

Nazdreg Yellow is my go to since it's closer to the ochre yellow tone I like (play Iyanden Yellow is my NMM Gold glaze color preference). Still working on the best method for getting a good looking value sketch that doesn't take a long time though.

[Galron]

I have experimented with various contrast paints on various bases. One thing I have noticed if using the grey seer/wraithbone base route on flat power armor plates, they end up blotchy without a lot  correctional work. Thus I have found a light drybrushing of a similar layer paint tends to bring out the contrast and solidify the color. I don't have pics but I have done this with both salamanders and IF, I am sure it would work for white as well but I have my own method on white and with all the infantry painted I am not changing now. Obviously will not work on black since you want the opposite effect. But the brighter colors work fantastically like this.

[BitsHammer]

I have experimented with various contrast paints on various bases. One thing I have noticed if using the grey seer/wraithbone base route on flat power armor plates, they end up blotchy without a lot correctional work. Thus I have found a light drybrushing of a similar layer paint tends to bring out the contrast and solidify the color. I don't have pics but I have done this with both salamanders and IF, I am sure it would work for white as well but I have my own method on white and with all the infantry painted I am not changing now. Obviously will not work on black since you want the opposite effect. But the brighter colors work fantastically like this.

Regular paints seem to hold the contrast paints in place which keeps it from doing the whole contracting into the recesses trick, but makes it stick better as well. Basically why I like it for glazing and not regular Contrast stuff.

[Maritn]

I have experimented with various contrast paints on various bases. One thing I have noticed if using the grey seer/wraithbone base route on flat power armor plates, they end up blotchy without a lot correctional work. [...]

This happens when I overload the brush. When painting flat surfaces, it worked best that way for me.

[jeremy1391]

When the paint pools and dries a little darker in one area if you were to put some leadbelcher in the middle it will look like chipping

[Mandragola]

I haven’t yet tried contrast yellow. To be honest I’m now at a point where I feel like I can get better results blending “manually” rather than with contrast paints or airbrushes. I can definitely see the appeal for painting large numbers of Imperial Fists though, and I’ve seen results that look good – including those above.

 

However I have found Wraithbone spray paint to be an awesome base coat for Yriel yellow. It’s a way to get a seriously bright colour, which is otherwise difficult to do. I far prefer this to the effect I get from painting it over Averland, which is sort of brownish.

 

This is a Reaver titan I’m working on as an example.