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Recommend a good Gold?


Wassa

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Hi all.

 

 

I find that Retributor Armour (pot) is quite a yellowy/orangey type of gold.

 

The Retributor Armour that comes from the spray can I like as it isbright and less orangey.

 

Can anyone recommend a brighter gold like the spray?

 

As a side note I also find Auric Gold Armour useless unless you clump a lot of it on.

 

 

For example, the difference between pot and can:

 

https://i.redd.it/k6j9wves50101.jpg

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I base with Balthasar Gold, then shade with Agrax and go over with a layer of Gehenna's Gold.

I don't have any Sanguinary Guard to show how a full gold model would look like, but parts and pieces might give you an idea.

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/359116-klods-blood-angels-collection-and-wip/

 

Here is also a video where Duncan uses this recipe for a BA Marine. https://youtu.be/g9HzqHVg1uE?t=590

I wouldn't recommend highlighting with Runefang though, you can barely see it. Stormhost is much better imo.

I have tried many different acrylic golds and this range is the best range of metallic paints if you airbrush, they have the least graininess (I believe they are the finest ground pigment on the market for acrylic metallic paints) to the paint finish and they shoot supersmooth out of a airbrush:

https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/metal-color-en/gold-77725/

 

If you are into airbrushing then do this with the Vallejo metal color range (in the link above):

  1. Prime black.
  2. Airbrush a basecoat of a 1:1 mix of Vallejo metal color copper and Valejo metal color gold all over the model.
  3. Airbrush 1st highlight of pure Vallejo metal color gold.
  4. Airbrush 2nd highlight with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo metal color gold and Vallejo metal color chrome.
  5. With a fine tipped paintbrush do some slight recess shading by glazing in heavily thinned Scale75 inktensity violet in the recesses (1:10 dilution inktensity violet to thinner).
  6. Gloss varnish all over the model thinned 1:1
  7. Do your decal work (with decal softener and fixer).
  8. Do a pin wash with a dark brown oil paint (Van dyke brown or burnt umber) heavily thinned with odourless white spirit thinner in the recesses. Use a synthetic round No1 brush. Let it dry for an hour and clean up any dried pools of oil wash with the brush damp with pure white spirit.
  9. Go on with your details etc

 

If you don't airbrush then do the same as above (obviously with a paintbrush instead of airbrush) but do the following paint switches:

  • In step 2 above switch the Vallejo metal color gold and Vallejo metal color copper mixture to Scale 75 dwarven gold.
  • In step 3 above switch the Vallejo metal color gold to Scale 75 elven gold.
  • In step 4 above switch the Vallejo metal color gold and Vallejo metal color chrome mixture to Scale 75 cintrine alchemy.

For the rest of the steps are the same.

 

 

 

You could also airbrush the suggested Scale75 triad above, but then thin them with Tamiya X20A thinner instead of water.

 

 

Cheers and good luck!

I have tried many different acrylic golds and this range is the best range of metallic paints if you airbrush, they have the least graininess (I believe they are the finest ground pigment on the market for acrylic metallic paints) to the paint finish and they shoot supersmooth out of a airbrush:

https://acrylicosvallejo.com/en/producto/hobby/metal-color-en/gold-77725/

 

If you are into airbrushing then do this with the Vallejo metal color range (in the link above):

  1. Prime black.
  2. Airbrush a basecoat of a 1:1 mix of Vallejo metal color copper and Valejo metal color gold all over the model.
  3. Airbrush 1st highlight of pure Vallejo metal color gold.
  4. Airbrush 2nd highlight with a 1:1 mix of Vallejo metal color gold and Vallejo metal color chrome.
  5. With a fine tipped paintbrush do some slight recess shading by glazing in heavily thinned Scale75 inktensity violet in the recesses (1:10 dilution inktensity violet to thinner).
  6. Gloss varnish all over the model thinned 1:1
  7. Do your decal work (with decal softener and fixer).
  8. Do a pin wash with a dark brown oil paint (Van dyke brown or burnt umber) heavily thinned with odourless white spirit thinner in the recesses. Use a synthetic round No1 brush. Let it dry for an hour and clean up any dried pools of oil wash with the brush damp with pure white spirit.
  9. Go on with your details etc

 

If you don't airbrush then do the same as above (obviously with a paintbrush instead of airbrush) but do the following paint switches:

  • In step 2 above switch the Vallejo metal color gold and Vallejo metal color copper mixture to Scale 75 dwarven gold.
  • In step 3 above switch the Vallejo metal color gold to Scale 75 elven gold.
  • In step 4 above switch the Vallejo metal color gold and Vallejo metal color chrome mixture to Scale 75 cintrine alchemy.

For the rest of the steps are the same.

 

 

 

You could also airbrush the suggested Scale75 triad above, but then thin them with Tamiya X20A thinner instead of water.

 

 

Cheers and good luck!

I've been using the Scale 75 gold set for my Lizardman team and it works quite nicely. Sadly I can't post pictures but it does produce a pleasing gold colour.

 

I am really surprised that the Retributor Armour is so different when comparing the spray and pot paints side by side.

 

Has anyone tried those Darkstar metallic paints? They look like they have a good range of metallic paints but I've not dived in to that particular brand. By my count they have 10 different gold paints, which would give a lot of variation. 

 

I've been using the Scale 75 gold set for my Lizardman team and it works quite nicely.

 

 

The Scale 75 metallics are some of the best I've ever used. Over a black or brown basecoat they cover amazingly in one coat. Dwarven Gold is my favourite. Elven Gold is pretty good too. For iron or metal the Vallejo Metal-Colour line is also very very good! I haven't tried their golds though.

My two gold recipes are:

 

Base - Scale75 Dwarven Gold 

Wash - Agrax Earthshade

1st Highlight  - Scale75 Elven Gold

2nd Highlight - Scale75 Citrine Alchemy 

 

Seen on the trim here:

 

sohpraetor1.jpg

 

 

Or, for more of a lighter, almost brass look:

 

Base - Tamiya X-31

Wash - Agrax Earthshade

1st Highlight - Scale75 Citrine Alchemy

 

Seen on the armour here:

 

tnv11No.jpg

 

-Ran

If the spray gold is more what you're looking for, then i would suggest using Vallejo Liquid Gold "Old Gold" as your brush on gold.  that's what i use, and it looks alot like the spray can retributor gold in your example.  and if the Old Gold still isn't quite the tone your looking for, the Liquid Gold series comes in 8 different shades, including a silver thats very close to Citadel Stormhost Silver, and a Copper.

No need to shy away from them as a pure paintbrush pusher.

 

I have pretty good experience from using airbrush ready paints with paintbrush. You thin regular paints down anyway when painting and in this case the manufacturer did it for you.

 

Especially the Vallejo model air metallic range is superb for paintbrush, I even thin them down further a bit when I paint with them with paintbrush.

My two gold recipes are:

 

Base - Scale75 Dwarven Gold 

Wash - Agrax Earthshade

1st Highlight  - Scale75 Elven Gold

2nd Highlight - Scale75 Citrine Alchemy 

 

Seen on the trim here:

 

sohpraetor1.jpg

 

 

Or, for more of a lighter, almost brass look:

 

Base - Tamiya X-31

Wash - Agrax Earthshade

1st Highlight - Scale75 Citrine Alchemy

 

Seen on the armour here:

 

tnv11No.jpg

 

-Ran

 

 

 

Hehe, I checked out your blog page about the praetor paint job (excellent btw, love it, the OSL is ace, minimalistic, "realistic", not in your face, but still there) and I cracked up when I read this:

 

"The OSL on the sword was the first time I’ve had a crack at painting such an effect and it caused a perceivable tightening of the sphincter as I put the brush to the model."

 

Exactly how I felt first time I attempted OSL.

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