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Getting Black Power Armor to Pop


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Video by Sonic Sledgehammer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5589eOERuBc

 

 

Right now I'm in a bit of a rough spot painting my Raven Guard. The black is just too much and from afar my models just look like blobs. No definition or depth. I like the technique this guy uses with the Necron Compound. Only thing is that I don't use Citadel paints, I use Army Painter, so I'll have to find whatever the closest match is.

 

In the meantime, I wanted to see if there were any additional tips people had for making their blacks stand out and not be so flat.

 

 

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I highlight with vallejo german grey then mechanicus std grey on edges.

 

Usually I'll drybrush the german grey only where light would hit. Then fill in the brighter highlights inside that color or on those edges.

 

For an HQ model I add in two more of my darkest greys to make the gradient more subtle between my black base coat and mechanicus std.

 

Pick a base color that will make the model pop. Earthy tones work well because they are not so bright that your eyes are drawn to the base first.

 

For power armor, you can make the ribbing on the inside of the joints a different color. Something like a medium grey with a black wash works. This can also be done to any cables running between armor plates. Look for any detail like that and paint it something not black. Don't paint the bolters black either, those look good in a dark military green for example This all breaks up the so called blob of black.

Hi Brother, as someone who player Iron Hands in 30k, I share your dilemma. I myself tried a number of things, like using Metallic Black sprays and/or hard outlining edges, etc. I'll share what I liked the most so far, a technique I learned from a Warhammer Store manager:

gallery_57329_13636_613547.jpg

This was speedpainted around the time Kill Team came out, a quick 2-night rush job altogether IIRC to build, experiment, paint. They're supposed to be Deathwatch but notice I didn't even convert their left shoulder pads, it was literally something I knew going in was just something I needed for the weekend.

They're "black", but usually please see the contour, some depth, some gradient. Depending on the person they'll swear it's either a blue tint or green tint. It's actually turquoise, one of those colours the human eye doesn't register very well; it sees it, but doesn't quite figure out what it's looking at, and it's like I'm highlighting black with a weird colour. Then I lightly highlighted edges with a light silver, I know, I KNOW power armour is ceramite, but it gives armour a slight worn patina that brings out the details.

So to review:

> Very matt black spray undercoat

> Drybrush a turquise colour to crate a gradient effect on the whole model

> Then drybrush just a bit of a silver colour just on the edges

Still, I'm not totally satisfied, I saw your video and I still think that's way too flat imho, it's like the guy's skills are good, but wasted on black.

Dark blues or greens work well as highlight colors for black. Battle damage with some kind of steel colour can also be used to add contrast. Don't forget dust and dirt too. Dark Models do tend to get lost on the tabletop, that's just their nature unfortunately.

Dark blues or greens work well as highlight colors for black. Battle damage with some kind of steel colour can also be used to add contrast. Don't forget dust and dirt too. Dark Models do tend to get lost on the tabletop, that's just their nature unfortunately.

I've used some of the Army Painter Gunmetal to drybrush some of the edges. I'm considering trying to put some all around the model like the guy demonstrates in the video and see if it gets toned down when I put a coat of shader over it. Might see if I have any dark blues/greens that could help as well.

Luther from around these parts did a really nice, simple black on his Death Company. Basically it was:

 

prime black

zenithal grey

zenithal lighter grey

nun oil

edge highlight grey

edge highlight blue/grey

 

Better to take a look at his article and write-up, though.

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