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Fortunately it's very easy to remove some water effect once it has set by poking a knife underneath and peeling it off:

gallery_30308_10249_1927.jpg

I don't mind the odd bubble (it looks great when you're going for the tar/oil type look) but I don't want a bubble party like I have here, does anyone know what went wrong so I can avoid it again? I'm sure that one at the least was well dry before I applied any, is it a case of how it is applied or prep for the bottle I need? All tips welcome! :smile.:

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is it a water based water effect (like Vallejos) or is it 2-component epoxy resin (like Deluxe materials solid water)?

 

I suspect the resin was cold when you mixed it and when mixing it, you whipped in a lot of air and when poured onto the warmer base the whipped in air bubbles expanded and clouded the resin.

 

I strongly recommend you using UV resin, there is no mixing, you have no time deadline to work against, no stress, you do your pouring and sculpting and then it cures when you flash a UV-flashlight on it or when you expose it to sunlight. Green Stuff World do this UV-resing that works like a charm:

 

http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/226-uv-resin

Edited by Imren

Water based, but I think I've got the issue now; I dropped the bottle prior to use which may have shook it up a bit, but probably the real culprit was daylight. This all makes sense especially as I've always been applying water effect last thing which was always in the evening so it would have dried overnight. I'll try again this evening and see how it goes :tu:

Can the GSW stuff be used over paint? I’ve got some old Lord of the Rings movement trays to make open water treatment pools for Titanicus and I thought I’d use gloss varnish over bluish green paint. Do you think that stuff would work better over paint or am I going overkill?

Can the GSW stuff be used over paint? I’ve got some old Lord of the Rings movement trays to make open water treatment pools for Titanicus and I thought I’d use gloss varnish over bluish green paint. Do you think that stuff would work better over paint or am I going overkill?

UV resin needs to maintain some transparency in order to cure properly with UV rays. You can paint a dark bottom and pour the UV resin as is, you can mix in supersmall amounts of inks and then pour it onto the base, that works best visually if you have the water surface against the edge of the base. If you have the water effect pool surrounded by modelled "beach" then the tinting of the resin matters less.

  • 2 weeks later...

Belated update - needed to get things up to speed ready for the water:

gallery_30308_10249_34033.jpg

I opened the bottle to check it out and found that the "washer" in the nozzle top had got a little gunked up. After cleaning it out and applying as normal it's as good as new :thumbsup:

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