Vallejo Matt Varnishes

[Black Knight]

I am a little confused about the difference between the named Vallejo Varnishes. I wanted some for two different reasons, one for decals/protecting layers, etc and one for the whole model to be protected protected with.

 

First there is Matt Varnish which I am reading is probably not the best for protection but works for decals/layers. There is Mecha Matt Varnish which seems like it is designed for protection but I have no idea if the difference in formulation will allow it to be used for decal placement. Finally there is the Premium Matt Varnish which I know is designed for airbrushes, but I am unsure if its too much for thin coats to separate layers, etc.

 

Has anyone got any experience with these products?

[Arkhanist]

I've owned and used a number of vallejo varnishes; they do a lot of different model lines.

 

For decals, you want to gloss varnish first - either the whole model (if you're spraying), or just the area you want to put the decals (if using a brush).

 

This provides a smoother layer, which is what you want for the decals to fit on to on curved surfaces; it's less necessary for flat ones. Simply put, matt varnish of the same type as gloss has extra 'stuff' in it (a matting agent) which makes the surface slightly bumpy, which is also what makes it scatter light and thus look matt. Gloss varnish dries smooth, and thus, shiny.

 

For a final layer, you usually want a matt finish; though sometimes a satin finish is more suitable for tyranids or the like. This is purely personal preference, and some people even prefer a gloss finish (weirdos!)

 

THEN you have what the varnish is made of. For modelling there are basically three types; acrylic, polyurethane (PU), and lacquer. In price, acrylic is cheapest, lacquer is most expensive. In terms of protection, acrylic is the worst, PU is very good, and lacquer is slightly better. In terms of toxicity, acrylic and PU aren't, and lacquer can be a bit toxic (it certainly smells!)

 

Vallejo only sell acrylic and PU varnishes. I generally advise to avoid acrylic varnish. It can yellow over time due to sunlight. It's less protection. It's only real advantage is it's a bit cheaper, which only really matters when you're buying a *lot* of it. You'll note that the first 'matt varnish' you link is acrylic, so we can scratch that one.

 

So that leaves vallejo PU varnishes. They do a standard polyurethane, which is fine, or their 'premium' line. Lately, they've also introduced the mecha varnish. I'm 99% convinced the latter two are the same stuff, or at least very, very similar. The main difference is the paint line they're attached to - premium is marketed at airbrushed RC cars, mecha line at airbrushed gundam etc. Mecha varnish is available in a 17ml size, while the smallest premium bottle is 60ml IIRC.

 

The matte finish on both is a bit superior to the standard PU varnish, as in it's slightly more matte, but also slightly more expensive than the standard PU varnish. Both are suitable for airbrush or brush use, and all vallejo varnishes I've used have been the same 'paint like' consistency.

 

Lastly, maximum protection is gained by two thin coats, more so than a single thick coat. And you run less risk of a bad result, such as the dreaded orange peel effect or drips from too thick a layer.

 

There is an old myth that gloss is tougher than matt. This is not true, they're chemically the same - as long as they are of the same type. Partly this is because back in the day, we mostly used to varnish with lacquer wood varnish (strong) then finish with acrylic matt hobby varnish (weak), because PU wasn't a thing back then. If you did both coats with say, PU, it doesn't matter which the first is for strength, though some people prefer to do gloss then matte because it looks better to them. Me, I can't tell the difference between gloss then matt, or two coats of matt so if I'm not doing decals i just do two thin coats of my final finish matt varnish.

 

So anyway. It makes sense if you're doing decals to first do a gloss PU coat; there's little to no difference between vallejo PU gloss brands, so go for whichever polyurethane gloss is cheapest (probably the standard PU one). This strikes a decent balance between strength and convenience - it can even be thinned with airbrush thinner if necessary, but too much will weaken it. This gives a nice smooth layer for the decals on curved surfaces, and protects the paintwork when you're poking it into position. (I strongly recommend using the microsol/microset combo to make your life easier for positioning). This is also a good time to do any oil-based washes/streaking effects.

 

Then you can do your final finish in matt (or satin) for appearance. Here, if you're sticking with vallejo, go with the premium or mecha matte PU varnish (either of the two you linked). I think the better matte finish is worth the small extra cost, but it's admittedly not a drastic one. The acrylic matt is frankly more like a satin finish, as well as being weaker so I don't recommend that one.

 

The other very popular option is rattle can based, Testors Dullcote. Goes on extremely matte, and dries very tough, being a lacquer. Also stinks like the devil!

 

I personally use vallejo premium matte through my airbrush as the finishing coat, as I can do it indoors at my convenience; at night, when it's chucking it down outside; it's non toxic and odour free which outweighs the slightly matter finish of dullcote for me personally. But, dullcote is SUPER popular as a final finish coat for good reason, so I feel it's worth pointing out.

Edited January 16, 2020 by Arkhanist

[Magos Takatus]

That's a shame, a few months ago I purchased a load of acrylic varnish. It'll probably take me a few hundrd years to use that much up and the lack of protection and potential yellowing both sound like annoying issues. I was concerned about the varnish being airbrush friendly so I steered clear of the lacquer since I didn't know if it was safe. Sounds like I should have done more research.

[Arkhanist]

That's a shame, a few months ago I purchased a load of acrylic varnish. It'll probably take me a few hundrd years to use that much up and the lack of protection and potential yellowing both sound like annoying issues. I was concerned about the varnish being airbrush friendly so I steered clear of the lacquer since I didn't know if it was safe. Sounds like I should have done more research.

Well acrylic varnish isn't useless; i have a whole ton of models from the 90's only covered in a double coat of acrylic varnish and they're fine. (the ones that weren't varnished, less so!). But then, they live in cases..It's just these days, it's one big advantage - being water based - has been superceded by PU water based varnishes that are basically better for virtually the same price. Yellowing is mainly an issue if you like to leave your minis in daylight for long periods (as in months or years), as it's UV light expsure that can do.it. I gifted some diorama pieces to my parents, oh, 20 years ago, and you can definitely see a bit of yellowing now because they've been on display.

 

I still have 100 of mls of acrylic varnish but I've relegated it to craft project status, simply because considering the amount of effort and expensive paint (and the price of the models themselves!) that goes into these things, the cost of the varnish is piddling. But like, that's my opinion and I can afford to do so; YMMV.

 

FWIW, I wouldn't put lacquer varnish through an airbrush. You can, but you definitely need good ventilation and an organic filter face mask, and you're not going to be popular with anyone else sharing the same space! So acrylic is definitely better under that circumstance! It's just modern water-based PU does it better yet...

 

Acrylic varnishes still live on in plenty of spray cans.

[Firedrake Cordova]

Basically, what Arkhanist said

 

I use the their polyurethane varnishes (so this matt one) - my experience is that they play nicely with an airbrush (using a 0.4mm needle), and are pretty tough - I've repainted the gear stick/gear shift insert on my dad's car (the chroming effect had worn off) using Vallejo Model Air Chrome, then gave it 5 or 6 light coats of gloss varnish, and there's no visible wear after >6 months of driving.  

 

As a note, the label says "do not thin - use bigger needle" (I'm paraphrasing), and to leave a couple of hours between coats.  I suppose it's obvious, but the matte/satin will noticeably reduce the metallic effect in metallic paints.  Oh, and the 200ml bottles are quite a lot of varnish

 

++EDIT: Apparently, the Mecha range (generally) is formulated to be tougher/more durable than the other ranges.  

Edited January 16, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[Black Knight]

Thank you for the write up Arkhanist, it was exactly the info I needed, especially since I worried that the premium would be too heavy duty for the layer work. I will grab a medium bottle of the Premium for now and give it ago.

 

Also thanks to Firedrake for the info on the airbrush I may have a reason to use the bigger needle for once.

 

Thanks all.

[Axineton]

Sorry to Necro this thread but I have a question regarding varnish.

 

can you spray varnish over grass tufts as well or is that no no? 

[sarabando]

Sorry to Necro this thread but I have a question regarding varnish.

 

can you spray varnish over grass tufts as well or is that no no? 

you can but it will bead up if you arent careful id advise against it

[Axineton]

 

Sorry to Necro this thread but I have a question regarding varnish.

 

can you spray varnish over grass tufts as well or is that no no? 

you can but it will bead up if you arent careful id advise against it

 

That’s all I needed to know. Cheers.