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Okay, so maybe I'm doing something wrong but, has anyone else had the Leadbelcher spray acting almost hydrophobic when it comes to washes?

 

Asking because each time I prime a model for my Iron Warriors with Leadbelcher and use Nuln Oil to shade, the Nuln Oil immediately retracts and makes pools all over the place. Example, on the magazine on this Kheres Assault Cannon:
va4zNkz.jpg

 

Is it because I'm using ONLY Leadbelcher over the bare plastic/resin?

Edited by Gederas

Also, even when your shade pools to that degree, you can mostly rescue the end result by moving it around manually with brush. It's good practice to do it anyway as it sometimes pools even under best conditions, especially if you used a lot of it. It won't look that bad even on 'wrong' surface if you help it a bit.

Also, even when your shade pools to that degree, you can mostly rescue the end result by moving it around manually with brush. It's good practice to do it anyway as it sometimes pools even under best conditions, especially if you used a lot of it. It won't look that bad even on 'wrong' surface if you help it a bit.

In this case, as with mine, the shade doesn't spread at all, it just contracts into a ball, like it's being repelled by the paint and no amount of massaging will get it to spread

Also, even when your shade pools to that degree, you can mostly rescue the end result by moving it around manually with brush. It's good practice to do it anyway as it sometimes pools even under best conditions, especially if you used a lot of it. It won't look that bad even on 'wrong' surface if you help it a bit.

In this case, as with mine, the shade doesn't spread at all, it just contracts into a ball, like it's being repelled by the paint and no amount of massaging will get it to spread

Yeah, that's the exact issue mine is having. So I'm not shaking the can enough then? Alrighty then :lol:

 

See, I was doing the standard "shake for a minute then spray". I had the can soaking in warm water to make it behave better. Looks like I forgot to shake it more :lol:

I actually take advantage of this effect of Leadbelcher spray on some of my Mechanicum figures, it makes working with some paints and washes harder, as you will need to be more careful or do multiple layers, but it does leave the exposed unwashed part with a certain shine that it does not normally get.

 

As others have said longer shaking is key with Leadbelcher, I guess it has to do with the metal particulates.  

I’m on mobile, where are you at OP? Was it cold and dry out? I’ve had this with rattle cans if I spray outside when it’s too cold or dry and end up shooting the can closer to the model. Also try rinsing your model with soapy water before spraying, if there’s stuff contaminating the surface of the model (mold release, your finger grease, etc) then the first layer of primer can have surface issues. I’ve had this with other sprays.

 

Two things to try: a light coat of matte varnish like he said ^ and thinning your wash with medium (zero water in your brush) to see if it lays flatter. If not try soaking the whole model in 91% alcohol to strip it and try again.

 

If you’re in the US try Rustoleoum 2x aluminum primer, it’s now my default primer for anything metal. It’s $4 a can at Walmart instead of $20 and you can use contrast gray as the armor wash. The result is a metallic gray that’s about the same value as Leadbelcher with highs and lows, you can then further recess shade and highlight to your hearts content. No joke, the stuff goes on super flat and covers great and it costs 1/4 what GW charges. It’s almost the exact same color as runefang steel so contrast gray is a great compliment.

I’m on mobile, where are you at OP? Was it cold and dry out? I’ve had this with rattle cans if I spray outside when it’s too cold or dry and end up shooting the can closer to the model. Also try rinsing your model with soapy water before spraying, if there’s stuff contaminating the surface of the model (mold release, your finger grease, etc) then the first layer of primer can have surface issues. I’ve had this with other sprays.

 

Two things to try: a light coat of matte varnish like he said ^ and thinning your wash with medium (zero water in your brush) to see if it lays flatter. If not try soaking the whole model in 91% alcohol to strip it and try again.

 

If you’re in the US try Rustoleoum 2x aluminum primer, it’s now my default primer for anything metal. It’s $4 a can at Walmart instead of $20 and you can use contrast gray as the armor wash. The result is a metallic gray that’s about the same value as Leadbelcher with highs and lows, you can then further recess shade and highlight to your hearts content. No joke, the stuff goes on super flat and covers great and it costs 1/4 what GW charges. It’s almost the exact same color as runefang steel so contrast gray is a great compliment.

I'm in Rhode Island. It was cold in my back hallway, but was dry. I had warmed the can of Leadbelcher up in some warm water so it wasn't super cold.

I did the same with two cans but they get cold fast when pressure is being released and with cold ambient air you could have problems as the stuff dries on the model.  I don't know chemically what happens but I had trouble painting about 10 or 12 pieces I did in the cold a few weeks ago including plastic/resin Battletech minis.  My washes are doing exactly what you describe and it's gotta be colder there than here in DC.  I lived in Newport four times and we had a summer home in Portsmouth.  :wink:

Edited by Fajita Fan

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