Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This is a modelling question, but I thought I would bring it here as you guys are the most likely to have built a land raider proteus or two.

 

Anyway, I'm finally building a landraider proteus that I bought when I went to GW in Nottingham while on vacation in England.  It's my first forgeworld model, and my first time working with resin on anything bigger than a finecast model.  Almost done, and despite the instructions being somewhat vague (they call to mind the the "then draw the rest of the owl memes - https://ballmemes.com/i/how-to-draw-an-owl-2-1-draw-some-circles-d0fa55d5fbbb421f8c381462d4f7a11d), I've gotten it mostly together, but I'm a bit stumped on a couple of things (mostly the first):

 

1.  Where do the torsion bars go?  -They are in the front of this picture:

 

DU4sabf.jpg

 

2.  How do I attach the gun shields?  They are at the right of this picture.  I'm guessing they get glued to hull in front of the sponsoons.

 

E4tlFAq.jpg

Link to comment
https://bolterandchainsword.com/topic/363058-land-raider-proteus-help/
Share on other sites

I glued them to the recessed part of the hull above the sponson.

 

Dont actually know about the torsion bars. Also I didnt glue on the round thingies next to the dozer blade.

 

Your cast looks way better than mine. Or you are better with doing tracks than me.

I glued them to the recessed part of the hull above the sponson.

 

At first I didn't quite understand what you meant, then I looked at the picture provided with the kit and figured it out.  Looking at the picture before, it looked like the shields were in front of the sponsoons, but they aren't - as you said, they go above them.  Thank you very much! :thumbsup:

 

 

Your cast looks way better than mine. Or you are better with doing tracks than me.

 

Thanks.  Maybe a bit of both.  My cast was very clean... I had to do almost no cleaning up of mold lines and flash.  As well, I only had 2 gaps that I needed to fill - one on the back of the hull right below the engine where the pieces of the back hull join, and between the left round thing that you left off and the  grill in front. 

 

As for the tracks, I took extra special care with them - I know that tracks are difficult enough with plastic kits.  I got all the track pieces for one side ready, dry fit them 3 or 4 times, then ended up trimming a bit of the last track piece to get it to fit right (during which I accidentally cut off a large portion of the track, which fortunately glued back easily enough).  I then repeated for the other side, this time either because the cast was a bit better or I had a better idea what I was doing, I didn't need to do any trimming to get it to fit.  I did have to rebuild the tab connecting the first track to the last one - for the first set of tracks, I thought it was a casting gate, while on the second I might to keep it attached but it snapped off and went who knows where when I snipped off the casting gate attached to the tab.  Here's picture of my repair - I think it went pretty well.

 

BJA5if9.jpg

 

Other than that repair, the other tricky bit with the tracks was neat the back top on each side, the in front of the piece coming over the back, when it is pressed in all the way (which you do with all the other pieces) the tab doesn't fit into the gap of the track behind, so that when you glue it you have to be careful not to press it in all the way in the back but instead leave it a bit popped up.

Edited by Dr_Ruminahui

Props to you for building this awesome but very challenging kit!  I did the armored variant and it was certainly a bear to clean up/assemble.

 

The torsion bars go on the sloped part of the main hull between the dozer blade and the view port - the pic below is of the armored proteus, but they are in the same spot on this version.  You can see them on either side of the aquila on the front plate.

 

99590101236_ArmouredProteusLandRaider02.

The proteus has the gun shields going above front of the lascannons, rather than the normal straight infront. One of the better pictures I could get of this...

 

84026021_545590309644434_195011275327449

 

I'll have a look around to see if I can find where the torsion bars go

 

Edit: Looks like Dicebod slipped in with the answer for the torsion bars!

Edited by Aeternus

Thanks to both of you - thanks to MV, I had figured out where the shields went, but thanks for pointing out where the torsion bars go. :thumbsup:

 

Are those pictures of your guys' own landraiders?  They are both really nicely done.

Edited by Dr_Ruminahui

Thanks to both of you - thanks to MV, I had figured out where the shields went, but thanks for pointing out where the torsion bars go. :thumbsup:

 

Are those pictures of your guys' own landraiders?  They are both really nicely done.

 

Haha, the one I posted is an official FW paintjob (as detailed in the FW Model Masterclass Vol 2).  This is the one I painted for a 30k militia army:

 

image0.jpg?width=485&height=364

Your landraider looks great, dicebod!

 

Thanks to your help everybody, I've been able to finish assembling my landraider proteus, complete with torsion bars! :smile.:  I'm magnitized the cupola weapon so I can swap between the heavy bolter and multimelta (or a twin heavy bolter, should I convert such in the future to field it as a regular land raider).  Asides from the very vague instructions with the kit, it was relatively straight forward to assemble - I had a pretty good cast with limited flash and very little warping or distortion.  The sponsoon guns were a little fiddly, and I had to pin one when I accidentally trimmed off a peg, but other than that and the issue I discussed above with the treads, the actual assembly wasn't too difficult, although the instructions did mean I had to work most of how things went together out for myself.

 

dLEHHmp.jpg

 

I intend to paint it for this year's ETL for the chaos forum - but I'll share photos here in this thread for you guys to see.

Edited by Dr_Ruminahui

This is one of my favourite styles of LR, such homage to the original WWI creations and the earliest GW version.  Great to see a thread about it and people helping out :smile.:

Same here. I've always wanted a Proteus, and I think I'll get one when FW opens back up.

 

Question for everyone: Does the Proteus use Land Raider or Rhino Doors?

Edited by Gederas

 

This is one of my favourite styles of LR, such homage to the original WWI creations and the earliest GW version.  Great to see a thread about it and people helping out :smile.:

Same here. I've always wanted a Proteus, and I think I'll get one when FW opens back up.

 

Question for everyone: Does the Proteus use Land Raider or Rhino Doors?

 

 

Normal uses Land raider doors, armoured one uses rhino doors, I think.

 

Though get someone who has one to acc confirm :P

 

 

Question for everyone: Does the Proteus use Land Raider or Rhino Doors?

 

Normal uses Land raider doors, armoured one uses rhino doors, I think.

 

Can't speak for the armoured one, but the one I just built uses landraider side doors - I bought a set of emperor's children doors and they are the same as the kit doors - decided not to use them, though, to put my own warband symbols on it instead.

 

And I agree with those who like the love the old school look of the proteus - the original rogue trader land raider is probably my all-time favourite GW vehicle, and the forge world model is fairly faithful to the original kit.

Edited by Dr_Ruminahui

Question for everyone: Does the Proteus use Land Raider or Rhino Doors?

Normal uses Land raider doors, armoured one uses rhino doors, I think.

Can't speak for the armoured one, but the one I just built uses landraider side doors - I bought a set of emperor's children doors and they are the same as the kit doors - decided not to use them, though, to put my own warband symbols on it instead.

 

And I agree with those who like the love the old school look of the proteus - the original rogue trader land raider is probably my all-time favourite GW vehicle, and the forge world model is fairly faithful to the original kit.

I did a quick gander at the FW site, and yeah. I think the armoured one uses Rhino Doors, as it has the same "sponsons" as the MKIIB Land Raider, which uses Rhino Doors.

 

Good to know.

Yep, I can confirm that the Armored Proteus do indeed Use Rhino doors while the standard Proteus use Land Raider doors. Buuuut Gederas, the Sponsons on the MkIIB and the Armored Proteus are actually different, though it's subtle.

The mk II has different over-under structures for a more-or-ess modified godhammer style 40K las cannon while the Armored Proteus are the 30K versions. Likewise, the doors are the same but they're slightly different lengths, and the armored proteus has an additional bracing strut. They're different widths, different almost everything on that so-small but so-big kind of issue.

gallery_107230_14721_222251.jpg

Also, good eye on those missing bits Dr. Ruminahui, I tossed the instructions after Proteus #1 and never did figure out where the extra torsion bar bits were supposed to go. The non-armored proteus is a kit I gotta end up getting for Land Raider Squadron #2, so it's nice to see around. They do look like a nice mix of kits, halfway between an armored proteus and a Deimos Rhino. Pop a few 1X10mm disc magnets on the sponsons and they're gold. You definitely seem to have got it all sorted, mate :)

Yep, I can confirm that the Armored Proteus do indeed Use Rhino doors while the standard Proteus use Land Raider doors. Buuuut Gederas, the Sponsons on the MkIIB and the Armored Proteus are actually different, though it's subtle.

The mk II has different over-under structures for a more-or-ess modified godhammer style 40K las cannon while the Armored Proteus are the 30K versions. Likewise, the doors are the same but they're slightly different lengths, and the armored proteus has an additional bracing strut. They're different widths, different almost everything on that so-small but so-big kind of issue.

gallery_107230_14721_222251.jpg

Also, good eye on those missing bits Dr. Ruminahui, I tossed the instructions after Proteus #1 and never did figure out where the extra torsion bar bits were supposed to go. The non-armored proteus is a kit I gotta end up getting for Land Raider Squadron #2, so it's nice to see around. They do look like a nice mix of kits, halfway between an armored proteus and a Deimos Rhino. Pop a few 1X10mm disc magnets on the sponsons and they're gold. You definitely seem to have got it all sorted, mate :smile.:

Was referring to the general shape of the "sponson" area. Since it had the same general design, I was assuming it also used Rhino doors. Glad to know my gut was right though, thanks for the confirmation Vykes!

  • 6 months later...

Finally started painting my proteus, so I thought I would share it here and seek some advice.

 

M0zRnXH.jpg

 

The purple is actually more vibrant than the photo shows - hopefully it will show up properly in my photos when I finish the model.

 

Anybody know what the grill on the front is supposed to be?  I'm not certain how to paint it, and it might help me decide if I knew what it was.  

No clue as to what it is but the one painted up on the webstore has it as silver/metallic colour, same goes for the unarmoured proteus. Personally I'd probably do it up as a metallic colour though not necessarily silver but thats just me 

Looking good doc!  Always nice to see a proper proteus done up.  

 

Just chiming in with everyone else: yeah, that's what I thought it was too, a sump guard for the transmission.  So a metallic or corrosion resistant style would be my go too.  

Thanks for the help, everyone.  Never heard of a sump guard before - guess that shows I'm not much of a mechanic. :sweat:

 

So, its in essence it's just a heavily armoured plate?

 

I did a search on the internet to look at how other's have done it, and I've seen them both done in the same colour as the body of the tank, as well in leadbelcher or a similar colour - and they've looked good either way.

 

Guess I'll work on painting the rest of the model and figure that out later based on what I think would look best - at the moment, it strikes me as a bit too much metal colour up front, but when I give my tracks a black wash that may no longer be the case.

Edited by Dr_Ruminahui

Thanks for the help, everyone. Never heard of a sump guard before - guess that shows I'm not much of a mechanic. :sweat:

 

So, its in essence it's just a heavily armoured plate?

 

I did a search on the internet to look at how other's have done it, and I've seen them both done in the same colour as the body of the tank, as well in leadbelcher or a similar colour - and they've looked good either way.

 

Guess I'll work on painting the rest of the model and figure that out later based on what I think would look best - at the moment, it strikes me as a bit too much metal colour up front, but when I give my tracks a black wash that may no longer be the case.

Yeah just a thick armoured plate to protect from rocks etc. on the ground. The colour is up to you but by its nature a sump guard is likely to look a lot more battered than other parts of the vehicle, particularly an off road vehicle like a land raider. But like Vykes says, they’re normally treated with something to be corrosion resistant so it would probably look battered but not overly corroded/rusted :)

Thanks, Markosian.  In this case the sump guard is behind the ram, so I'm not sure how much I will scratch or scrape it up.  Think I'll leave it to one of the last parts I paint, which should give me a better idea as to how to have it best fit with the whole model.

 

Spend 2-3 hours painting yesterday and another hour or so today doing the left side.  I'm pretty happy with it, except for the white of the door which is kind of patchy.  I've included my chaos lord in the picture to give a better indication of how it will fit in with my army.

 

rcTh7K1.jpg

 

The lascannon array fell off when I was doing the first purple coat, but I'll be leaving it off until I otherwise finish the model - it makes it easier to paint the model as a whole, as you really need to rest it on something to paint (its the heaviest model I've worked with) and not having the sponson helps that.

 

So, for those who want to build it at home, don't glue on the lascannon sponsons until you're otherwise done - it makes painting much easier.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.