Citadel Texture question

[Grimdark_Garage]

Hi all. Historically I have used PVA and sand on my bases before priming.

 

I've just started a new army and want to change to using texture paint.

 

I'm just wondering, do folk apply to the base before then attaching the model? And if so, is there any tips on ensuring there's a space for the model to sit on the base that is free of texture paint?

 

I have used texture on several models and found applying it time consuming and a lite fiddly. Just thinking that doing the bases without a model being glued to it would be far easier

[Bung]

What works best for me is to use some painters tape for the base edge and just throw texture paint on to the base surface. 

Then pin the model to the base and use a bit o texture paint to close the gaps to the miniature.

[Bryan Blaire]

Something I've done is put the model down on the base and drawn around the feet with a fine Sharpie and used that as guide to stick Blu-Tac down before priming and painting the base. Then when you take the Blu-Tac off (I usually use a new blade on a hobby knife to score along the edge of the tack material to make sure I'm not pulling up paint I want to keep from the base when I peel the Blu-Tac up), you should have a pretty good space to glue the feet back down to.

 

Something else I saw recently is using pieces of sprue approximately the size of the feet to glue to the base surface - then glue the model on top, and when you complete both, break the model off the sprue pieces, then the sprue pieces off the base.

 

You may have to clean up some on the base before getting the model's feet back down using either method - I've had to cut and scrape a bit of paint off before with the blu-tac method to get proper space for the feet.

[Rik Lightstar]

I do my bases without the model attached and then pin and glue them on after.

 

I have a bunch of spare bases I stick models to while painting with just a tiny dot of superglue which will just snap off.

 

Rik

[Closet Skeleton]

I put some plasticard under the feet and put the texture paint around it later, mainly to get around the fact I use thicker chunkier texture paints to get some depth variance. If you're just using a thin layer of the crackle stuff this won't work.

I suppose you could just glue some plasticard to the base and apply the paint around it and then glue the model to the plasticard.

Edited April 21, 2020 by Closet Skeleton

[Tyberos the Red Wake]

I attach small balls of Blu-Tack or similar poster adhesive putty to the feet of the model and press down, then carefully remove the model so that the squished tack forms a footprint that's smaller than the model's actual foot. After the base is finished, I just peel the tack off which leaves a spot to glue, and the model won't appear sunken into the base since the hole is smaller than the actual foot and will be hidden. With some textures such as Armageddon Dust, which dry very hard, you can even superglue light models like plastic infantry straight onto the texture with no problem, but I'd still recommend either gluing to bare plastic or pinning the connection, and not to try with heavier metal models or models larger than a Terminator.

[BadgersinHills]

I Would suggest superglue and pinning. 

[Lord Raven 19]

I just put it on with the model on the base after painting, If it goes on the boots, it just looks like the model is actually walking on the ground rather than floating.

[Xenith]

Texture first, then attach model = pin model to base

model first then texture base = use brush to move texture around the feet.

 

I always use the latter for citadel texture paints. Former for premade scenic bases.

Edited April 28, 2020 by Xenith