Gloss & Matte Varnish Interaction

[First_Among_Brothers]

I used to only use matte varnish but I’ve been having some issues with models chipping and flaking (not so much new GW or FW stuff, but mainly things made by other companies, 3D-printed models, and pewter models), so I’m trying to up my varnish game. I used to use Model Master lusterless flat, but now I’m switching to first Vallejo acrylic gloss varnish followed by Testor’s Dullcote.

 

I just did two throw-away test models—one with a heavy coat of the gloss and the other with a very light coat. I’m finding that: the model with the heavy coat of gloss remains glossy no matter how many coats of Testor’s I spray on; the model with the light coat of gloss gets much closer to matte with a few coats of Testor’s, but still is a touch glossier than I’m used to. I’m saying that, unlike what I was reading online, even a few coats of the dullcote does not *completely* eliminate the gloss. Wondering if you have any experience with this and what you would recommend (naturally, I do not want the glossy look, but am using the gloss for added protection).

 

One more question—I’m new to Testor’s products, and I’ll point out that I haven’t found any sprays that have “dullcote” printed on the can itself. It instead appears as a sticker on the cap that says “dullcote/ capa embotada” while the actual can says “Clear Coat”. Does anybody know what’s up with this?

[Imren]

This is what your do, should solve your problem:

 

Kit list:

• Vallejo polyurethane varnish gloss (https://alphaspel.se/2154-airbrush-och-tillbehor/37998-vallejo-auxiliaries-polyurethane-varnish-gloss-60ml)
• Vallejo polyurethane varnish matt (https://alphaspel.se/2154-airbrush-och-tillbehor/31413-vallejo-auxiliaries-polyurethane-varnish-matt-60ml)
• Old toothbrush
• Dishwashing detergent (aka wash-up liquid)
• A Big bowl

 

Procedure:

 

1. Take your non-plastic (resin, metal 3D-printed UV resin etc) pieces and but them in the bowl, squirt a bit of detergent and fill up with warm water. Let it stay for an hour.
2. Take your toothbrush and brush clean every bit, make sure your brush all the nook and crannies. This will remove all the mould release agent.
3. Dry, build your model and pin it to cork or whatever holding method your prefer (perhaps you base it before painting).
4. Before painting, do another washing with detergent, this will remove the natural skin grease from handling while building.
5. Do your paintjob.
6. If you have a prevalent metallic colour scheme them mix gloss and matt varnish in a ratio of 1 part matt and 3 parts gloss and apply all over in two thin coats with 24h between so that the first layer gets to cure before the second layer. I you have non-metallic colours prevalent in your colour scheme then mix 1 part gloss and 3 parts matt for a more satin/matt finish.

The polyurethane varnish is much more chip and scratch resistant in my experience, but needs curing between the layers.

[Firedrake Cordova]

The Vallejo varnish you want is the polyurethane varnish (26.650 or 27.650 for gloss, 26.651 or 27.651 for matt - they also do a satin), or Mecha Color varnish (26.701 or 27.701 for gloss, 26.702 or 27.702 for matt - they also do a satin).  In my experience, it's very resistant, but it does need to be applied un-thinned in multiple thin coats (an airbrush is ideal for this, although you'll want a 0.35/0.4mm or larger needle to spray it easily), and with each layer being left to dry thoroughly.  I re-sprayed the gear stick cap for my dad's car, and topped it with about 4 layers of varnish over a year ago - it looks no different now to when I did it.

 

With modern polyurethane varnishes, disregard the "gloss is more durable than matt varnish" statement - it's not true.  Also, the Vallejo matt varnish is too matt for my tastes - I went with satin (obviously this is personal preference).

 

P.S. The numbers I quoted are those on the bottle, for the 60ml and 200ml bottles. 

Edited April 27, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[Karhedron]

My standard recipe for varnishing to protect models is an undercoat of Halfords Satin lacquer. This is durable and not very shiny. Once thoroughly dry, I apply a top coat of Testors Dullcote. Perfect flat finish ever time. The model below shows how it looks when finished. You can't even tell it is varnished which (for me) is the finish I am looking for.

Edited April 29, 2020 by Karhedron