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Hi,

 

I've been using a DIY wet pallette for a little while now, using a j-cloth type paper fabric cloth as the reservoir layer under a layer of greaseproof paper. This works well enough for the time being until I get better parchment paper when all this lockdown is over and more specialist shops are open.

 

One thing I have noticed is that somewhat inevitably I suppose in a persistently wet environment is that after time I start to get small amounts of black mould growth on the cloth. I just wondered if anyone has any advice on how to help stop this without impacting on the paints in a negative way. I.e. what effect would adding a drop of anti-bac soap or similar into the water have?

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Paper towel/toilet roll again. At the end of a session bin it, and pat down the inside of your palette to dry that off too. Your greaseproof paper can be left in there afterwards if it's not full and you dont want to waste it.

Worked for years for me, but since I've gone and bought an Army Painter one (and I do pretty much the same thing - wring out the 'wet layer', dry the insides) because I think I'm fancy.

Put a couple pennies underneath the sponge. Copper is naturally antimicrobial. Antibacterials won't necessarily help as they only kill bacteria, and will not kill all molds, fungi, etc. You can also purchase sponges like the one included in the Redgrass Games Everlasting Wet Palette, which has been soaked and treated in antimicrobial solution to prevent mold growth. It's a good product but most DIY users probably would be put off by the price of the entire palette system, but you can still buy the sponge itself separately.

Put a couple pennies underneath the sponge. Copper is naturally antimicrobial. Antibacterials won't necessarily help as they only kill bacteria, and will not kill all molds, fungi, etc. You can also purchase sponges like the one included in the Redgrass Games Everlasting Wet Palette, which has been soaked and treated in antimicrobial solution to prevent mold growth. It's a good product but most DIY users probably would be put off by the price of the entire palette system, but you can still buy the sponge itself separately.

 

I have the Redgrass stuff and i am back to using kitchen towels and parchment paper. I keep the palettes as ABS is mould resistant too.

Had a talk with a known painter here in germany at a workshop who is working in a laboratory. Even with copper and other stuff his suggestion was to always setup a new palette with kitchen paper. 

Its just safer on the long run.

As others have said, user paper towel / paper napkins. I have a DIY one that's in a sandwich container. I place a paper towel and my square of parchment paper and that's it. I flip the parchment over and use both sides but once it's been used up I just swap everything out for a new paper towel and parchment. If it took a bit for me to go through all of the parchment area I'll wash out the container with soapy water because I have had mold occasionally start to form but that's very rare.

Do you guys use wet palettes for shades?  I don't think contrasts like water, has anyone tried that?  I bought one two years ago but haven't opened it yet.  

If it goes on my brush it goes on my palette. The parchment paper creates a semi permeable barrier so the paint doesn't soak up the water, I always add a little water from my pot to thin my paints once they're on the palette.

 

The only exception I make is nuln oil if it's going on right out of the pot. I've recently tried out Army Painter washes and those have been fantastic and go on my palette to thin down as they're fairly thick.

Do you guys use wet palettes for shades? I don't think contrasts like water, has anyone tried that? I bought one two years ago but haven't opened it yet.

Even if I'm not thinning (like with washes/inks - haven't yet used the contrast range) it goes on the palette. If nothing else it means that I can properly control what's on my brush without wasting paint onto tissue every time I have to dip a brush into a pot. While there is the chance that a wet palette will allow a tiny amount of water to seep through to the paint the effect should be negligible, even with inks.

  • 2 weeks later...

Take an empty one litre bottle and pour 5 ml chlorine (bleach) and fill up with water and shake. use this solution for your wet palette. It is enough low concentration to not smell and mess with your baking paper and or paints, but high enough to kill germs and mould fungus.

 

 

You could also drop one or two drops of vinegar in the wet palette, vinegar is a natural fungicide and therefore good against mould.

Edited by Imren

Go to your local pharmacy/chemist and get a bottle of Iodine Tincture used primarily for disinfecting wounds. You can add this to water that is literally 'chunky' with contamination and make it drinkable in an emergency situation, so it does well to keep keep a wet pallet 'fresh' for much longer than average. Add several drops to a jug of water (distilled isn't really necessary but it doesn't hurt either) until it has a ever-so-slight golden tint (it's so slight that it won't effect paint colour, don't worry) and store it in a cool dark place. This won't stop mould from forming in a wet pallet that gets extended use, but it will extend the life considerable.

 

Be sure to clean your pallet well and disinfect it with something like alcohol periodically between replacing the moisture pads and parchment paper sheet. Even if you swap the pad and sheet out the inside surface of the container can be contaminated and a fresh bloom will start again very quickly; break the cycle by disinfecting the whole thing from time-to-time. It should go without saying, a wet pallet that's closed up for storage is literally a perfect place for bacteria and mould blooms to happen and with the sweat/oils from your hands or other contamination from the environment it's impossible to avoid. All you can do is try to slow the inevitable and Iodine has been the best solution I've found so far.

Do you guys use wet palettes for shades? I don't think contrasts like water, has anyone tried that? I bought one two years ago but haven't opened it yet.

I've mixed my contrast paints on a wet pallete with no issues, I've also thinned it with a mix of contrast medium and water, I've mixed the medium and water first and had no problem gojng as far as 3:1:1 water:contrast medium:contrast paint. Never needed it any thinner than that.

 

Also I find contrast medium really good for adding to shades/washes along with some water for getting better results.

 

Rik

I like my white ceramic painting tile, grabbed it from a tradie mate for free. Easy to clean, no mould and you only put out as much paint you need with limited wastage. As long as you don't drop it or damage the surface harshly it will last forever. Wet pallet is too much fuss IMO

To each their own. Everyone should always do what works best for them, naturally. However, I'm compelled to say, I used a white ceramic tile for years, until I tried a wet pallet and I just couldn't go back. It's not just that it significantly slows paint from drying in general (but that is a primary advantage), but for me it's that it keeps paint at the consistency I'm aiming for when I thin the paint; on a tile its start to dry and change consistency too damn quickly and I'm forced to regularly adjust the mix, but on a wet pallet it will keep the desired consistency for significantly longer so I can concentrate on getting paint on the damn model consistently. Does it take a small bit of preparation and upkeep? Sure, but this hobby is filled with countless other fiddley involved processes that require far more effort so the advantages of a wet pallet are enough for me to deal with the effort.

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