Brushes

[INKS]

I have various GW brushes. I've heard over the years that these aren't really good brushes? So the question is what brushes do you prefer?

I have very shaky hands if that matters at all (probably doesn't)

[Tyberos the Red Wake]

If you have the currently sold GW brushes that are gloss black with black ferrules, these are actually fairly good brushes, if overpriced. I have heard that they're a custom blend of sable manufactured by Winsor & Newton specifically to GW's specifications.

 

If you would like higher quality brushes for about the same price, I recommend Raphael 8404 for fuller, softer brushes and the popular Winsor & Newton Series 7 for sharper, stiffer brushes. Both are high-end kolinsky sable brushes and you only need one or two of them for most jobs, a size 1 or 2 round for general work, and an optional size 0 round for fine detail work. Good brushes like these will form a sharp tip even if their size is large like a size 2, meaning there's no need to buy a 000 brush like you would with lower quality brands. Da Vinci Maestro and Artis Opus also offer similar brushes, and Rosemary & Co offer passable pure kolinsky sable brushes for less money than these brands.

Edited July 6, 2020 by Tyberos the Red Wake

[Arkhanist]

GW brushes aren't as bad as they used to be, certainly, but they're overpriced for what they are.

 

I have shaky hands too, and get knuckle cramp (the joys of getting older!). I've switched to army painter brushes now for the majority of the work, as the triangular handles on most of them are easier to grip and hurt my hands less for a longer session, though I'm sure they're going to last less time than nice kolinsky brushes. But they're pretty cheap! I've tried a few kolinsky large handle ranges (greenstuff world, warcolours) and wasn't impressed.

 

I did pick up a full set of the army painter brushes, because it includes the drybrushes etc I needed for a full refresh. The ones I use most are the regiment brush (roughly a size 2) and character brush (size 0). It also comes with a kolinsky masterclass brush with triangle handle which is pretty good for the price.

 

Previously I've used both raphael 8404 and winsor and newton series 7 (along with testing many others!), and both are very good brushes that will last years if cared for (i.e. don't get paint under the ferrule, and clean with brush soap periodically). I'm still using the series 7 size 0 for when I need super precision.

 

For shaky hand syndrome, I can recommend two things. The first is a painting handle with a brace like this one, or this one. This gives you something to rest your fingers against when needing a steady hand; I have the latter, and use it heavily.

 

For doing edge highlighting specifically, you could try a rigger brush. These are super long, and so-called because they're used for painting long thin lines for ship's rigging. The length of the bristle absorbs hand shakes, so you can paint a straight line easier - ideal for edge highlighting long sections! I'm currently using a rosemary & co size 0 ivory rigger; the synthetic brush is a bit stiffer than sable, so works well for this task. You should be able to find a similar one from a more local shop cheaply.

[Subtle Discord]

I prefer the stiffness of a Windsor & Newton Series 7 but they've had some supply issues over the last few years so I picked up some Escoda Reserva for about half of the price. They're noticeably softer and are wearing out faster than a Series 7 but still a great brush that holds a nice point even after significant abuse, which is what really matters. Better quality brushes aren't a magic bullet for better painting but they really do help by performing more consistently, not splitting, bulging, or getting hooked tips, and lasting much longer than several lower cost brushes combined.

 

Be sure to brace your hands against each other, then brace them both on the edge of your table to help with the shakes; you can even use a small short table or tray placed on top of your painting are to raise up a surface that you can use to brace your hands as you work. Also be aware that certain times of the day are better than others for painting; I find that early in the day my muscles are horrible and combined with my morning caffeine my hands are very shaky, then it gets better later in my day as my muscles limber up, before getting sloppy (but not as bad as in the morning) from fatigue late in the day. I'm sure its different for everyone, but maybe you can notice when the shakes aren't as bad and aim to get some painting done during those windows of opportunity. I simply don't even try to paint in the morning, for me, it's simply an exercise in frustration.

[INKS]

Thanks for all the advice. I'll look into all those products. and for the shaky hands!

[Firedrake Cordova]

I too have heard less-than-complimentary things said about GW's current line of brushes, although I think it does tend to depend on the type of brushes - I've seen bad things said of the quality/durability of the Base range of brushes, but less so the Artificer ranger.  I can't comment too much, as I've only really used/own the Shade (M/L) and Dry (S/M/L) ranges, and I actually quite like them.  From what I've heard, the Artificer brushes are tweaked/repackaged Winsor & Newton Series 7's, and (obviously) quite good (albeit priced at fully RRP).  It's fair to say they're not cheap compared to other brushes, but that is offset to some extent by the fact that I can walk into a GW and buy one, instead of having to mail order it and pay P&P, as well as actually being able to examine the brush prior to purchase.

 

In terms of other brushes, both the Winsor & Newton Series 7 and Raphael 8404 are excellent sable brushes.  I'd say the W&N feels nicer in the hand (heavier, silk screened lettering vs stamped), but I have a suspicion the Raphael is actually a slightly better brush.  Looking at the belly and taper, they have slightly different shapes, so there's going to be a bit of personal preference in there, but both point well - I can do the panel lines on an Aeronautica Imperialis Thunderbolt with my #3 8404 (wings are easy, fuselage is getting a bit tricky).  One word of caution is that sable brushes are damaged easily, so require care.  It's also not advised to use expensive brushes for painting with metallic paint due to the sharp mica/aluminium flakes in the paint.

 

Looking at cheaper sable brushes, Pro Arte's Rennaisance range are "OK".  They point up OK, and are relatively inexpensive, but do tend to go "floppy" quick (after painting a stroke, you might find the brush looks a bit like a banana, rather than a cone), and the handles tend to be a bit long.  I've heard good things about the Rosemary & Co Series 33's, but I've never used them.  I've previously tried the Winsor & Newton Artist's Watercolour Sable range, but wasn't impressed - I found the shaped handle uncomfortable (it's shaped like an elongated hourglass), and was also a bit disappointed with the quality of the brush head (not as good as my old Series 16s, which they effectively replace).  I was also a bit disappointed with the Winsor & Newton Sceptre II Gold synthetic-sable blend range - they look pretty, but I found they don't really come to a point that well (they're OK for doing large areas, though).

 

The other option is synthetic brushes (which tend to be a bit hardier than sable).  This seems to be a bit of a minefield, as there's some quite good ones, and some quite bad ones.  I've tried a few, and the best (most sable-like) were the Jackson's Art Supplies own brand Studio Synthetic 505 (cheap), with the runner-up being the Winsor & Newton Cotman Series 111's, although the Pro Arte Prolene range is also quite usable.  What I've found is that synthetic brushes tend to be a bit "springier" than sable, but don't carry as much paint, and are prone to "fish-hooking" (especially for the smaller sizes - this can be fixed by putting the tip in warm water, straightening them with your fingers, and setting them with gum arabic).  I've found that less-good synthetic brushes tend not to be as "responsive" to pressure as a sable brush - they'll tend to bend as a cone, rather than having the tip splay out to provide a broader stroke.  Having said all that, Sam Lenz uses dollar-store size 8 synthetics, so ...

 

One other point to mention is that makeup brushes are becoming popular as drybrushes.  I've seen the Chique Pro Detail brush (by Royal and Langnickel) recommended as being as good as the Artis Opus Series D by one YouTuber, and they're cheap (~£2), so might be worth a try.

 

With regard to your shaky hands, probably the best thing to go is to ensure that your elbows and/or wrists are braced against something, to help stabilise them.  Having the model on a holder (either a commercial one, or an old paint pot, block of wood, etc), can also help.

 

The only other thing I'll add, is to ensure you have sufficient good-quality, daylight-balanced (6500K) light to ensure you don't get eyestrain, or mix weird colour mixes due to yellow light.  Well that, and get some good brush cleaner (The Master's Brush Soap or equivalent).

 

Don't know if that's any help?

 

P.S. I've not tried them, but Escoda brushes are also supposed to be very good.

 

++EDIT: I should add, there is no right answer, a lot of this is going to be personal preference, due to how the brush handles in your hand being a fairly large influencing factor (haptics and all). :)

Edited July 6, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[beefeb]

For me, the best budget option is army painter...really great value and decent brushes.

 

For when Im feeling like a more quality paintjob or extended painting sessions I will use Rosemary & Co and Raphael 8404 brushes.  Fantastic quality though a fair chunk more expensive option than the AP ones.

[Firedrake Cordova]

For me, the best budget option is army painter...really great value and decent brushes.

I've heard good things about them, and I've seen Duncan using them, which probably says something ...

Edited July 6, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[Arkhanist]

I should probably specify I mostly use the white handled army painter brushes, the 'wargamer' range because of the triangular handle. The 'hobby' red handled army painter series are synthetic, so I wouldn't recommend.

 

The white handled ones are red sable so similar hair and feel, but not *quite* as good a quality point as a good Kolinsky - but then, they're half the price. And a couple of Kolinsky brushes for fine detail work/nice glazing will last longer if you're more sparing in their use.

 

IIRC high quality Kolinsky brushes are made from the male winter coat of the Mustela Sibirica, especially the tail, but cheaper ones mix in some (shorter) female hairs too. Red sable brushes use mostly/all female hair, or from a different animal altogether, so can vary from near Kolinsky quality to pretty rubbish.

 

Now, if i could get a Raphael 8404 (pure Kolinsky) with an ergonomic/triangular handle that would be my made-in-heaven brush!

 

Rosemary and co series 33 brushes are definitely decent, but I'd put them more on a par with a high quality red sable as opposed to a premium brush like a Raphael 8404, W&N series 7 or Da Vinci series 10. My old rosemary and co's, the printed sizes rubbed off the handles pretty quickly, and the tip sharpness definitely didn't last as long as the other 3. But then, they're about 60% of the price, so can't complain!

Edited July 6, 2020 by Arkhanist

[Firedrake Cordova]

Now, if i could get a Raphael 8404 (pure Kolinsky) with an ergonomic/triangular handle that would be my made-in-heaven brush!

Probably a dumb question, but have you tried one of the triangular pencil grips you can buy?  I'm not sure how it'd work out for the diameter of the brush vs the size of the hole in the grip, and whether the exterior of the grip would be an acceptable shape, but ...

[Maschinenpriester]

 

 

For me, the best budget option is army painter...really great value and decent brushes.

I've heard good things about them, and I've seen Duncan using them, which probably says something ...

I did have okish results with army painter too considering the price.

for me my go to option for a long time the Windsor and Newton series 7.

Recently I have switched to DaVinci Maestro Tobolsky Kolinsky 35. They are cheaper, and last as long and have an even more defined tip. They also have the triangular grip. But I don't know if they are available where you are from.

 

It is important to take care of expensive brushes though. Most importantly rinsing them often enough. But there is also special kind of soap/shampoo for brushes. That way you get the maximum lifespan out of your brush.

Edited July 6, 2020 by Maschinenpriester

[Firedrake Cordova]

It is important to take care of expensive brushes though. Most importantly rinsing them often enough. But there is also special kind of soap/shampoo for brushes. That way you get the maximum lifespan out of your brush.

^ Very much this.  Using a good brush soap (such as The Masters Brush Cleaner) to clean out any paint that rinsing with water didn't get is very important (and can be quite eye-opening, sometimes).  You can also use hair conditioner on them to keep them supple.  If the brush is going a bit hard or out of shape, Vallejo's Brush Restorer seems to do a pretty good job of fixing it.

 

For the sake of completeness, I'd add that whilst you can use alcohol-based cleaners* on sable brushes to remove stubborn paint, it's not a good idea to do so on a regular basis, as it will strip the natural oils from the bristles, and can make the hairs brittle.

 

* Vallejo Brush Cleaner, Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner, W&N Brush Cleaner & Restorer

Edited July 6, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[Arkhanist]

 

Now, if i could get a Raphael 8404 (pure Kolinsky) with an ergonomic/triangular handle that would be my made-in-heaven brush!

Probably a dumb question, but have you tried one of the triangular pencil grips you can buy?  I'm not sure how it'd work out for the diameter of the brush vs the size of the hole in the grip, and whether the exterior of the grip would be an acceptable shape, but ...

 

Not a dumb idea, something along those lines was what I tried first. Brushes are significantly thinner diameter than a pencil though, so they don't stay put. I fixed that with some heatshrink tubing to thicken the handle, but I usually hold the brush near the ferrule, and of course that's where the brush handle is the narrowest, so the pencil grip is both very squishy, and *too* fat, if that makes sense. They didn't go to waste though, they've cushioned up some metal handled scalpels nicely.

 

It was seeing Duncan using the AP brushes that gave me the idea to dig out an old 'regiment' brush from my pre-kolinsky backup brush stash, gave a thorough clean and some repair gel to help redo the point. Liked it a lot more than I remember, and that's what I've been going with lately!

 

 

 

 

For me, the best budget option is army painter...really great value and decent brushes.

I've heard good things about them, and I've seen Duncan using them, which probably says something ...

I did have okish results with army painter too considering the price.

for me my go to option for a long time the Windsor and Newton series 7.

Recently I have switched to DaVinci Maestro Tobolsky Kolinsky 35. They are cheaper, and last as long and have an even more defined tip. They also have the triangular grip. But I don't know if they are available where you are from.

 

It is important to take care of expensive brushes though. Most importantly rinsing them often enough. But there is also special kind of soap/shampoo for brushes. That way you get the maximum lifespan out of your brush.

 

I have definitely been tempted to try out the Da Vinci Maestro series 35 because of the handles! But they are supposedly longer and thinner shaped bristles than the usual pointed round shape such as the W&N series 7, i.e. less belly for a given size; was worried they might be a bit unwieldy. Reviews are thin on the ground! You've found them a good shape for painting?

 

Definitely agree on the "master's brush cleaner and preserever" soap though, that stuff is great for conditioning and cleaning brushes in normal use. Where paint has dried up near the ferrule though (goddamn 24ml wash pots) "brush magic" is my new secret weapon to get em truly clean again.

Edited July 6, 2020 by Arkhanist

[Subtle Discord]

Yes, do your self a favor and get some The Masters brush soap; the small container is just a couple of dollars and lasts for years as long as you keep it hydrated. And yes, be sure to take the best care you can of high-cost brushes. But that said, take it from someone who tries to take good care of his brushes and then ultimately doesn't do as good of a job as they could; I like my paint rather thin so it tends to soak up to the ferrule easily, so in turn I'm a bit rougher when I 'roll' them on the side of the water container and/or the palm of my hand to clean them. I don't treat them nearly as badly as I could but I'm also not that gentle with them. Even with that less-than-ideal treatment higher quality brushes simply last noticeably longer while keeping their shape throughout their lifespan. So even if you're a bit heavy-handed in their treatment they're still worth the investment compared to low cost synthetics.

[Firedrake Cordova]

Not a dumb idea, something along those lines was what I tried first. Brushes are significantly thinner diameter than a pencil though, so they don't stay put. I fixed that with some heatshrink tubing to thicken the handle, but I usually hold the brush near the ferrule, and of course that's where the brush handle is the narrowest, so the pencil grip is both very squishy, and *too* fat, if that makes sense. 

Doh!   I'm wondering if you could 3D print a sleeve for them, that's probably rapidly descending into "too much effort" ...

 

It was seeing Duncan using the AP brushes that gave me the idea to dig out an old 'regiment' brush from my pre-kolinsky backup brush stash, gave a thorough clean and some repair gel to help redo the point. Liked it a lot more than I remember, and that's what I've been going with lately!

It's interesting, isn't it? Whilst I really like my Series 7 & 8404 for fine details, I actually like my Jackson's Series 505 synthetics for base coating ...

Edited July 6, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[INKS]

Keep the info coming if you have something to add. I've been reading it all. thank you

[Maschinenpriester]

I have definitely been tempted to try out the Da Vinci Maestro series 35 because of the handles! But they are supposedly longer and thinner shaped bristles than the usual pointed round shape such as the W&N series 7, i.e. less belly for a given size; was worried they might be a bit unwieldy. Reviews are thin on the ground! You've found them a good shape for painting?

 

"brush magic" is my new secret weapon to get em truly clean again.

Definitely! I would say for my personal taste they are superior. It is the narrow shape that makes them stand out for me.I use them for anything. Basecoating washes, highlighting, Details and painting eyes since I discovered them for me. But your milage may vary. I think brushes are an individual experience. Edited July 7, 2020 by Maschinenpriester

[Corswain]

Another vote for army painter - value for money is excellent.

[Magos Takatus]

I think I have to agree with Arkhanist about the Green Stuff World brushes. From my experience the bristles didn't have much spring to them and the bristles didn't form a point very well. It's not like they were splayed out but it felt to me like the bristles were slightly different lengths from each other. I found painting using these brushes becomes quite tiring since it feels like you are fighting with the brush. Trust me, they aren't the worst brushes I have used but they definitely can't compare to Windsor and Newton.