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If you're intending to use it just to get the coloured metallic effect, then spraying the Contrast paints using an airbrush turns them into a filter/glaze, which means they should cover a large flat surface evenly.

Badger has a series of "ghost tints" that can be brushed or airbrushed- 2 of which are a dark blue and a turquoise (i believe its called plasma fluid, cant recall off the top of ny head)

A bit expensive to use contrast for airbrush but that would work.

Regarding your question:

I don’t have this particular colour but having a stab at it I’d say Vallejo model color 70.808 blue green or warcolour turquoise 4, scale 75 has an Adriatic blue.

 

Vallejo does have a turquoise but it’s a lot darker and more to the blue side.

 

S7ttUgi.jpg

 

I personally love using ink over metallics as ink is very transparent. It’s also very easy to use through an airbrush. (Daler-rowney FW does a turquoise fe)

 

Hope this helps !

I personally love using ink over metallics as ink is very transparent. It’s also very easy to use through an airbrush. (Daler-rowney FW does a turquoise fe)

Liquitex does a nice turquoise's too. :smile.: (although I'm not sure how well they match to Terradon Turquoise)

 

Ken Bromley Art Supplies have a couple of YouTube playlists of the Daler-Rowney FW Ink, Liquitex inks, and Winsor & Newton inks being applied, so you can see the colour they'll come out.  The only turquoise inks in those lists are FW Turquoise, and Liquitex Turquoise Deep.

Edited by Firedrake Cordova

I did a warcry band ( iron golems) like that and I didn’t varnish it afterwards. I have 0 problems of it coming of.

Varnish over metal isn’t the best look anyway.

I’ve also played/ moved them quite a bit.

 

( I used W&N)

 

Edit: I do use contrast snakebite leather over gold and that seems to stay on properly too without varnish.

But they do have an inconsistency problem within that line for certain colours

Edited by Spacecow

Are those inks more durable than contrasts? I find they rub off just by looking at them too hard and varnishing outside in the American south is a total crapshoot.

I've mainly used the Rowner & Liquitex inks in home-made washes (mixed with matte medium and flow improver), and never had a problem with them. 

 

As a test I applied some of my Liquitex Vivid Lime Green ink to a sheet of plasticard, in as thin a coat as possible with a brush (the ink was taken from the "froth" at the top of the bottle after shaking it), and left for about 20 minutes to dry.  Giving it a gentle rub with a finger didn't result in any coming off - it wasn't until I rubbed hard that it did (and even then, it didn't start to come off until my fingertip felt warm).  Not sure if that's any help (it's probably not a great test as I should have left it to dry/cure for longer, probably, and it was painted straight onto plasticard instead of primer/paint) ...

 

varnishing outside in the American south is a total crapshoot.

Is that with spray can or airbrush?  Is the issue humidity, or something else? (just wondering as I've never had an issue airbrushing varnish in the British summer, although we do get wild humidity swings - it was 52%RH yesterday afternoon when it was hottest, and is forecast to be 80% today)

If you're intending to use it just to get the coloured metallic effect, then spraying the Contrast paints using an airbrush turns them into a filter/glaze, which means they should cover a large flat surface evenly.

As an addition to this, if you hold the airbrush closer to the model, it's possible to still get it to do the "Contrast thing" without it running everywhere or blotching.

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