Highlighting Stormvermin Fur

[Klod]

What would I want to highlight Stormvermin Fur with? I tried with Dawnstone and Pallid Wych Flesh, but they don't really fit well together I feel. Stormvermin Fur is warm, and those collors are cold.

Painting Power Armor btw.

 

I'm trying out Rakarth Flesh currently, not sure about it yet.

[Firedrake Cordova]

Mix in a cream?

[Bung]

Vallejo Model Color Ivory or Scalecolor Birch are some good colors for mixing highlights.

If you are set on Citadel colors maybe something Like Wraithbone or Skeleton Horde.

[Bryan Blaire]

Klod, are you just trying to get a lighter grey-brown? Do you want to lean into the more brown or more grey tone?

[Klod]

I'm not so sure about grey. Since other parts of the armour are burgundy (Gal Vorbak Red), and pouches will be brown (Rhinox Hide) I think warmer highlights will look better. I want to do a chunky and a fine highlight. I'd don't have time right now to do a proper test model, but you can throw in some suggestions.

Edited August 22, 2020 by Klod

[Guest Triszin]

stormvermin is a grey brown.

 

I would say

 

1. storm vermin

2. nuln

3. storm vermin

4. baneblade brown/gorthor brown

- my gorthor brown is really light, the color pallet on the website has it dark, but its a midtone

5. and ushanti on the extremes

Edited August 22, 2020 by Triszin

[Bryan Blaire]

If you are trying to keep the grey brown, but shift to the more brown tone, I would try lightening with some cream colors, as has been suggested - for a chunky highlight, you might try mixing in some Zandri Dust or Ushtabi Bone into the Stormvermin Fur, depending on how bright you want to go. Then the next highlight, you move up to either Ushtabi Bone (if you are working up from Zandri) or to Screaming Skull mixed into Stormvermin Fur. For a bright spotlight, I would use pure Screaming Skull on the brightest spots.

[Klod]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try out Banblade Brown when I get an opportunity to shop at my flgs. My friend tested it for me and he said it looks decent. If I don't like it after all I'll probably have to mix it in the end. I guess its best to buy multiple pots and mix them together so I always have the same tone.

[Firedrake Cordova]

... I'll probably have to mix it in the end. I guess its best to buy multiple pots and mix them together so I always have the same tone.

Technically yes, but ... if you mix it in a controlled manner (i.e. try keeping to a recipe of 3 lightener : 2 Skavenblight for highlight # 2 or whatever), across an army and when combined with layering, etc, any differences are most likely going to be slight and not noticeable. (we did manage to get consistent-looking armies back when the paint range was ~80 colours and we had to mix all the stages )

[Bung]

 

 

... I'll probably have to mix it in the end. I guess its best to buy multiple pots and mix them together so I always have the same tone.

Technically yes, but ... if you mix it in a controlled manner (i.e. try keeping to a recipe of 3 lightener : 2 Skavenblight for highlight # 2 or whatever), across an army and when combined with layering, etc, any differences are most likely going to be slight and not noticeable. (we did manage to get consistent-looking armies back when the paint range was ~80 colours and we had to mix all the stages )

To be honest i bought multiple pots of Tamiya colors and Mixed them for my HH Imperial Fists. Saves alot of time of you plan a big army.

The other thing i mixed is a standard wash of 1:1 Armypainter Strong Tone and Dark Tone (Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil Work too). Its something i use on nearly all miniatures with a more realistc paint job.

 

So i wouldnt dismiss pre mixing completly.

Its something you could think about if you are planing a color sheme of an army.

[Firedrake Cordova]

To be honest i bought multiple pots of Tamiya colors and Mixed them for my HH Imperial Fists ... The other thing i mixed is a standard wash of 1:1 Armypainter Strong Tone and Dark Tone (Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil Work too). Its something i use on nearly all miniatures with a more realistc paint job

So i wouldnt dismiss pre mixing completely.

No arguments from me if you're mixing up base colours, or shading washes, which you're going to use a lot of.   My comment was purely in the context of necessity for consistency of highlights, where it tends to be less needed/useful.

Edited August 23, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[Bung]

 

To be honest i bought multiple pots of Tamiya colors and Mixed them for my HH Imperial Fists ... The other thing i mixed is a standard wash of 1:1 Armypainter Strong Tone and Dark Tone (Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil Work too). Its something i use on nearly all miniatures with a more realistc paint job

So i wouldnt dismiss pre mixing completely.

No arguments from me if you're mixing up base colours, or shading washes, which you're going to use a lot of.   My comment was purely in the context of necessity for consistency of highlights, where it tends to be less needed/useful.

 

 

Thats true, but i think it depends on the amount of miniatures you are going to paint.

For example i use this recipt for the yellow of my IF

 

Yellow Areas:

 Airbrush 50/50 mix Tamiya Flat Red/Yellow 

 Airbrush 25/75 mix Tamiya Flat Red/Yellow 

 Airbrush Tamiya Flat Yellow 

 Airbrush 75/25 mix Tamiya Flat Yellow/Flat White 

 Airbrush Tamiya Clear Yellow 

 

I made a pot of all the mixes, but i have planned to paint alot of miniatures for a Horus Heresy Army. 

Thats why i say OP should think about the amount of miniatures he is going to paint cause its far easier to have pot ready for the next 20-30 miniatures in the painting queue.  

At least thats what i consider in my planing stage of painting miniatures / warbands / armies etc.

[Closet Skeleton]

I use longbeard grey (one of those obscure dry paints) and then agrax earthshade on top but that's when I'm painting rocks. Otherwise I only use thinned down stormvermin fur for shadows and shading. Unless I'm using it for hair where I can't remember what I did if anything.

 

It is a dark warm grey, so unless you're going beige you need a light warm grey.

 

GW just says that Stormvermin fur is used to highlight skavenblight dinge or contrast basilicanum grey which is not helpful, only recommending karak stone as a highlight. They also recommend administatum grey as a final highlight but that's for using stormvermin to highlight black templar. It certainly is possible that what you really want is to shade stormvermin fur with something else rather that worring about highlighting it.

 

Administratum Grey does seem to be a lighter warm grey but GW mostly recommends using it to highlight dawnstone (which would hint at why dawnstone doesn't work well over stormvermin). The only pale warm greys GW seems to sell other than Administratum is Slaanesh Grey which is probably too lilac to go with the brown in Stormvermin.

 

Vallejo game colour has a Stonewall grey that looks like a lighter warm grey but not especially promising while Vallejo model colour has a wider range of greys that might work but some of them have metalic names despite not being in the metalic section so I'm a little wary. Otherwise Vallejo model colour Silver Grey looks like the best pale warm grey paint I've seen but the name has me cautious and I can't promise it will shade stormvermin better than Citadel Karak stone does.

Edited August 24, 2020 by Closet Skeleton

[Klod]

Just as an update. I did some test schemes and I liked mixing Stormvermin with Screaming Skull the most.

Chunky highlights: 1 Stomvermind : 1 Screaming

Fine highlights:      1 : 2

Finest highlights:   1 : 3

 

I'll have to buy 9 pots to make a mix for each stage. Since I'll be painting an entire army probably.

 

My camera is poo, so no point taking photos to show you.

Edited September 4, 2020 by Klod