A few airbrushing questions.

[Suspira Mortis]

Hi all,

 

I have a few questions about airbrushing that I couldn't find answers to elsewhere; I'd be very grateful for your input.

1. Is it adequate to flush with distilled/deionised water between colours, using airbrush cleaner only at the end of a session, or will this lead to bad clogging in the long term?
2. Can Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner be diluted with distilled/deionised water without a significant reduction in efficacy?
3. I've read that ultrasonic cleaners will not damage an airbrush (at least when compared to aggressive manual cleaning), but I'm sceptical about this claim. What is your view? Please consider that I made the mistake of buying a relatively expensive airbrush (i.e., Evolution Silverline) as my starter, so the components may be more delicate.
4. Is it a good idea to let air out of my tank after sessions?

Thanks in advance!

[Imren]

My answers:

1. Short answer, yes water is sufficient, even tap water is sufficient, special water (deionised/distilled) have no additinal benefit for flushing between colours while airbrushing. So save your money for something else. Clogging happens usually due to two reasons, one is dried paint residue due to insufficient cleaning after paint session and the interior has dried with paint. the other is dried paint flakes  that are aleady in the paint that get mixed in with the paint and thinner in the airbrush cup and get stuck att the nozzle while painting. So to summarise, use water between water changes, but use cleaner at the end of the paint session. However, if you will paint with a light colour with small amounts of paint, right after painting with a dark colour, then just cleaning with water might leave some dark paint residue in the cup and the channel to the nozzle, water might not clean this out properly and in this special case I'd recommed also to flush with cleaner even between imminent colour changes otherwise the previous colour might tint the next colour.
2. It depends on how much you dilute it, assuming the cleaning power of the airbrush cleaner is linearly dependent on alcohol content, then a 30% dilution with give you a 30% reduction in cleaning power, whether that is significant or not is a matter of trying out. I haven't tried that, so I recommend mix up a seperate bottle of cleaner and water and try out at what water cut does the cleaning effect get too weak.
3. Generally speaking, ultrasonic cleaner is never needed if you are meticulus about cleaning right at the end of the painting session. The airbrush exterior is cleaned with paper towel and airbrush cleaner or thinner depending on what kind of paint you want to remove. Even if you use aggressive solvents like acetone on the airbrush exterior, it is ok as long as you just use the acetone to wipe of dried paint with a paper towel (I do it all the time without any issue). But do not use acetone inside the airbrush as this may harm the needle o-ring seals, if you leave some paint residue that dries inside the airbrush then you also might damage the o-ring seals that seals off the paint compartment from the trigger mechanism compartment along the needle. If you clean the airbrush at the end of each painting session with the following steps you will not need the ultrasonic cleaner (I have been airbrushing for years and never used a utrasonic cleaner and my airbushes are always clean and ready):
   • Dump out or spray out leftover paint mix in the cup.
   • Pour water or cleaner in the cup and use a synthetic bristle to gently mix in the paint mix residue on he cup inner walls with the cleaner/water and DUMP OUT of the cup, do not spray this out (if your do you run the risk of getting small dried paint flakes stuck in the nozzle)
   • Do another cleaning round as per previous step with cleaner in the cup.
   • Remove needle from airbrush and wipe it clean with a clean paper towel or cloth that is wet with cleaner fluid. Observe the paint residue on towel after wipe, redo until no paint residue is visible on the towel
   • Apply needle lubricant around needle tip and reinstall needle.
4. Yes! Especially after long sessions of airbrushing, the longer the airbrushing session, the more water builds up inside the tank due to water vapor condensation as the air pressure goes down when feeding the airbrush. So when you finish the paint session, switch off the compressor, and empty the pressurised tank with the manual screw valve at the bottom of the tank. Keeping water in the tank accelerates rusting, you will see this after a long painting session (priming, basecoating highlighting many models in one go/session) and wait a few days before emptying the tank through the botton screw valve, the water will come out with a rust tint in it which means the tank interior walls have started rustning. You can slow this rusting process by always kepeing the tank empty of water.

Edited September 24, 2020 by Imren

[Rik Lightstar]

Hi Suspira,

 

I'll preface this by saying I'm not an "expert" however I have some experience from my own use of my airbrush.

 

1. If you're going to keep using it then often a quick flush through will be fine. I then to use a couple of full "cups" of water and make sure it's coming out clear on some kitchen towel.

 

2. I don't bother diluting the cleaner, but I'll only use it at the end of a session or when going from for example red to white where even a small amount will be obvious.

 

3. Components on more expensive airbrushes aren't necessarily more delicate, I've had no issues when using an ultrasonic cleaner, however I didn't find it made a huge difference to the cleaning outcome either.

 

4. Yes! There should also be a bolt underneath the tank to allow you to drain any moisture, if you don't do this it will eventually start to rust the tank which will compromise the strength of it, this is bad news. Depending on the humidity where you are the moisture will build up at a different rate.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Rik

[Suspira Mortis]

Thank you both, especially Imren for the detailed response, I will write down your cleaning routine somewhere for reference. You've both probably saved me money in the long run, as well as the health of my air tank!

[Lovecraft0110]

Hi all,

 

I have a few questions about airbrushing that I couldn't find answers to elsewhere; I'd be very grateful for your input.

1. Is it adequate to flush with distilled/deionised water between colours, using airbrush cleaner only at the end of a session, or will this lead to bad clogging in the long term?
2. Can Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner be diluted with distilled/deionised water without a significant reduction in efficacy?
3. I've read that ultrasonic cleaners will not damage an airbrush (at least when compared to aggressive manual cleaning), but I'm sceptical about this claim. What is your view? Please consider that I made the mistake of buying a relatively expensive airbrush (i.e., Evolution Silverline) as my starter, so the components may be more delicate.
4. Is it a good idea to let air out of my tank after sessions?

Thanks in advance!

 

Hi Suspira Mortis, 

 

I am not an expert, but here's my two cents: 

 

1. Yes (if you use only acrylics), but I wouldn't if I were you. 

 

2. Yes, but I wouldn't dilute it too much. 

 

3. I had a cheapo Sparmax airbrush nozzle pretty much disintegrate inside my ultrasonic cleaner (from Vallejo), haven't used it since. It could have been my mistake, but...

 

4. Yes, and that is very, very important. 

 

Now let me give you some advice that's based on my experience. I am neither an airbrush artist, nor a pro painter, but I have been airbrushing for 3 years, and I've painted a LOT of models in that time. I would recommend that: 

 

1. You get a Badger Patriot 105 to use for basecoats. It is the sturdiest, most versatile airbrush I know, and I've tried quite a few. 

 

2. If you have an airbrush that has proper seals, try Tamiya paints. They are toxic, so you'll need a booth AND a respirator (don't do it without BOTH), but the difference between them and ANY acrylic is...hard to describe with words. I can literally shoot paint non stop for an hour and it won't clog. 

 

3.  Again if your airbrush is sturdy enough, the best cleaner is IPA, which you can thin down. I use 99% IPA diluted to around 70% for flushing, and pure when I do a deep clean or when I use Tamiya stuff. 

 

I hope this helps, 

 

Enrique a.k.a. Lovecraft0110

[Firedrake Cordova]

Is it adequate to flush with distilled/deionised water between colours, using airbrush cleaner only at the end of a session, or will this lead to bad clogging in the long term?

Personally, I flush the airbrush with water until it comes out clear, and then I run one cup (i.e. 2.5ml or 5ml) of airbrush cleaner through it just to be sure.  Some paints (metallics, primers, and light colours) are more prone to inducing clogging than others, which may affect how fastidious you wish to be ...

 

Can Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner be diluted with distilled/deionised water without a significant reduction in efficacy?

The instructions say to dilute it with equal parts water when used to clean between colours

 

I've read that ultrasonic cleaners will not damage an airbrush (at least when compared to aggressive manual cleaning), but I'm sceptical about this claim. What is your view? Please consider that I made the mistake of buying a relatively expensive airbrush (i.e., Evolution Silverline) as my starter, so the components may be more delicate.

If you put any part of your airbrush in an ultrasonic cleaner, make very sure there is no metal-on-metal contact (including parts which were separate migrating to being in contact with each other).  Realistically, the only part from that airbrush you should need to put in an ultrasonic cleaner is the nozzle (personally, I put it in a glass jar filled with water/airbrush cleaner, and put that in the ultrasonic cleaner).

 

I wouldn't say getting an Evolution as your first airbrush was a silly idea (they're great, and easy to clean, so less likely to be frustrating), but I would advocate reading the instructions leaflet which came with your airbrush (especially the bit about not cleaning with ammonia as it damages the plating).

 

Is it a good idea to let air out of my tank after sessions?

After you've finished painting, you should let the air out of the tank, and unscrew the drain plug to allow any moisture in the tank out.  If you're not going to use the tank for a while, it should be stored with the drain plug out (according to the retailer I bought mine from) - this is to limit the formation of rust in the tank.

 

++ EDIT: If you're unsure, this is what the owner of Badger says about using and cleaning airbrushes: 

Edited September 26, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[Bung]

To add something from my side. I use the Evo Silverline for nearly 10 years and it didnt let me down once.

After i upgraded to an Infinity i still use it for less detailed work with the 0.4 mm nozzle.

 

About Ultrasonic cleaners i have one but i dont use it that much for my airbrush guns. Only once or twice per year for a deep clean when i check the seals.

 

Plan the time for cleaning in your painting time and do it after you finished working then you are fine.

 

One thing i learned the hard way is not to put the brass nozzles in an Ultrasonic cleaners. First time it damaged the nozzle tip.

 

For the Tamiya paints mentioned by Lovecraft0110. They are based on alcohol as solution instead of water for Hobby acrylics. Thats why they tend to smell and Work different.

[Suspira Mortis]

An update, I'll try not to turn this into my blog.

 

I have just done my first couple of sessions applying Stynylrez primer. The first went well, but after the latest session I've had trouble cleaning my airbrush. The cup is currently sitting in a pot of Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner overnight after repeated attempts to remove the paint with cotton swabs and those bristled airbrush cleaners. However, I fear I may have compromised my airbrush by cleaning too vigorously with the bristled brush. It's scratched quite badly in the paint reservoir area of the body and there is still some primer I can't get to on the bottom. I dare not soak it in cleaner longer than I have, for what that could do to the seals. Hopefully it's still functional tomorrow...

 

This is partly why I thought buying an Evolution as my first airbrush was a mistake, Cordova, I knew I'd screw up out of inexperience.

 

Thanks again for all the detailed replies, this forum is amazing, especially for a newbie such as myself. I won't bother with an ultrasonic cleaner then. I may try Tamiya paints in the future, as it stands however, I have quite a stockpile of acyrlics!

[WrathOfTheLion]

I am not as familiar with the Evolution airbrush, but when there's paint I can't get to from the bottom of my Iwata, then I disassemble the whole front and clean all of it there. It's much easier to get to the bottom of the cup from the front, once it gets obstructed down there I don't even bother trying to get at it from the top.

Edited September 26, 2020 by WrathOfTheLion

[Suspira Mortis]

Cheers for the answer, WrathOfTheLion, but I was cleaning it fully disassembled and from the front. I suppose if it's that stubborn it's not likely to come loose when I'm using another paint, though.

 

Edit: I should also mention for other newbies how impressed I am with Synylrez primer so far. Even when applied to thickly during my fiddling with air pressure, it levelled itself quite well.

Edited September 26, 2020 by Suspira Mortis

[WrathOfTheLion]

If it's not obstructing the passageway, just like a thin layer stuck, I wouldn't worry about it.

[Suspira Mortis]

Thanks for the reassurance! I've learned now to clean more frequently, even when using the same colour.

 

Now I'm just worried about those damned scratches

[Firedrake Cordova]

I have just done my first couple of sessions applying Stynylrez primer. The first went well, but after the latest session I've had trouble cleaning my airbrush. The cup is currently sitting in a pot of Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner overnight after repeated attempts to remove the paint with cotton swabs and those bristled airbrush cleaners.

I've not used Badger Stynylrez, but I'd be surprised if isopropyl alcohol (aka IPA, 2-propanol, etc) or methylated spirits, a cotton swab, and a bit of rubbing wouldn't remove it.  A quick Google search suggests it requires a bit more effort to clean than some other primers.

 

However, I fear I may have compromised my airbrush by cleaning too vigorously with the bristled brush. It's scratched quite badly in the paint reservoir area of the body and there is still some primer I can't get to on the bottom. I dare not soak it in cleaner longer than I have, for what that could do to the seals. 

The general advice is to not use bristled brushes, however, I wouldn't worry if it still sprayed OK once you've got it clean.  If you have accidentally created a problem, you can get the body as a spare part (as with every other part on an H&S airbrush), so it's not the end of the world.

 

I dare not soak it in cleaner longer than I have, for what that could do to the seals. 

The Silverline has PTFE (solvent-resistant) seals in the areas paint can get, so I wouldn't worry too much.

Edited September 26, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[Suspira Mortis]

Thank you Cordova, I'll avoid bristled brushes from now on and instead clean more regularly, and for the more stubborn spots I'll use IPA. Also forgot about the PTFE seals when I bought it, that's reassuring!

[Lovecraft0110]

Have fun and experiment!

[Suspira Mortis]

Thanks Enrique, your videos are an inspiration!

[Bung]

If you can Spray enamels with your airbrush those cleaners wont harm your gun or seals.

If you have something thats hard to clean get a q-tip and this stuff

https://ak-interactive.com/product/xtreme-cleaner/

 

I tend to spray the Xtreme metal colors from AK Interactive with my Silverline and all is fine.

 

For real hard cleaning i use this

https://www.jerrysartarama.com/createx-airbrush-restorer

 

Createx Airbrush restorer but be carefull it melts plastic over time. But its something i only use when paint is dried more than a day in the gun.