White ink using IPA

[Miek]

Hi, I'd like to make white ink by diluting white acrylic paint with either 70% or 90% IPA (isopropylic alcohol), have some of you already tried this? If so, does 70% work fine or did you "have to" use 90%?

 

I'm going to try it regardless eventually, but I would appreciate some prior feedback if possible.

 

Thanks!

[Doctor Perils]

Isn't alcohol what you use for stripping acrylic paint?! sorry if this is a nooby question

[Bryan Blaire]

I would think it would actually be more effective to simply purchase white acrylic artist's ink than try to make your own - the paint itself seems unlikely to have the concentration of pigment in it that the ink would. It just seems like you'd get better results with a small purchase there then needing to experiment, etc. (unless that is the ultimate goal and you enjoy it).

[Brother-Chaplain Kage]

Yeah, white acrylic ink is a thing and is quite awesome. A lot of mini painters spray it through an airbrush undiluted instead of using white acrylic paint. 

[Magos Takatus]

I have to throw in my lot with Brother Chaplain Kage here. I bought white ink to experiment with zenithal undercoating techniques. Apart from having to adjust the pressure a bit it goes through an airbrush nicely. I thinned the ink because I was following a tutorial on the "Miniac" Youtube page but I imagine you could get decent coverage if you don't dilute it.

[Firedrake Cordova]

Daler-Rowney FW or Liquitex acrylic inks are what you want - ~35ml bottle for less than the cost of a pot of GW Shade.  Vince Venturella uses them for zenithal priming. :)

 

Otherwise, I'd be looking at using reduction mediums (thinning medium, flow improver, airbrush thinner) to reduce the paint, although it won't end up as pigmented as the ink.  I'd probably steer clear of IPA, as I use it for stripping models ....

[Mandragola]

Yeah don't use IPA to thin acrylic paint. And if you do get some for using with alcohol-based paint like liquid metal, be careful with it. I've had just a small amount of it mess up an acrylic paint job.

 

It should be available at very high concentration by the way. I got 99.9% from amazon. Wasn't expensive. That's the stuff to use with liquid metal, because water will make it rust.

[Miek]

Haha thanks, glad I asked. I'll try to find a pot somewhere then, I was trying to make do with what I have until confinement is over but I might simply order it online.

[Gederas]

Yeah, isopropyl alcohol strips acrylic. So... Technically it's the ultimate thinner for it, but not in the way you want it to....

 

 

Also, I completely forgot that IPA stood for "isopropyl alcohol" and when I saw this thread's title I thought "why on earth are you trying to use white ink with terrible beer?" (because, as an American, I'm more used to IPA being an acronym for "Indian Pale Ale" which is the lowest form of beer, outside of Corona anyways)

Edited October 20, 2020 by Gederas

[Bat33.1]

I would advise  you to thin the Daler&Rowney FW and Liquitex acrylic inks with Vallejo Flow improver if you are going to airbrush with them they flow much nicer with less tip drying and transition way better. You can reduce with water but the flow improver just makes it much easier and you use less ink with the bonus that you can easily mix 60/40 flow improver to ink

[tychobi]

I am quite enjoying speedball white ink, but its a slightly off white. Not enough to notice until you put it next to titanium white. Tons of pigment and very liquid. Thins nicely with water for translucent application.

[Miek]

Thanks again everyone, I was pleasantly surprised to find that my local art store had D&R FW ink in stock and bought a bottle of white ink and another of turquoise (for fun and to "encourage" them, business must be though these days).

 

@PJ1933: I'll thin it down with flow improver as you suggested when airbrushing, thanks.

[Firedrake Cordova]

I would advise  you to thin the Daler&Rowney FW and Liquitex acrylic inks with Vallejo Flow improver if you are going to airbrush with them

That is a good point. :)  Un-thinned, the FW inks will clog in my H&S Evolution when using the 0.2mm needle.

 

Thanks again everyone, I was pleasantly surprised to find that my local art store had D&R FW ink in stock and bought a bottle of white ink and another of turquoise (for fun and to "encourage" them, business must be though these days).

Both the Daler-Rowney and Liquitex lines have some gorgeous colours in them - Purple Lake (DR) and Turquoise Deep (Liquitex) come to mind - and Payne's Grey is a universal shader. :)  If you're interested in what they look like brushed-out, one of the UK stores has a playlist of all of the Rowney and Liquitex colours. :)

 

(also, I'm sure your local store will appreciate your support - sadly, all of mine shut years ago :()

[Evil Eye]

I can confirm that those inks are delightful to work with, I use the black for pre-shading, and in general I find they're great for freehanding. I did my AoS Goblin banner with them, and they control beautifully.

[Miek]

Oooh now I have to go back, thanks!

[betrayer41]

I have white ink for highlights, Could it be used as a base color for an army say....world eaters lol?

[Firedrake Cordova]

Oooh now I have to go back, thanks!

I'm not sure whether to say "you're welcome" or "sorry"

 

I should also add that they work with Contrast Medium very well due to being very thin, highly-pigmented, and translucent, although due to the pigment level, however much ink you think you need to add to the medium, it's too much - use less. (I've only tried Liquitex Turquoise Deep and FW Indigo)

 

I have white ink for highlights, Could it be used as a base color for an army say....world eaters lol?

Whilst inks are very highly-pigmented, they tend not to produce a truly opaque layer, even after many coats.  If that's not what you're after, you could still use a coat or two of ink to improve the coverage of your next colour.

Edited October 21, 2020 by Firedrake Cordova

[WrathOfTheLion]

I use black ink mixed with black paint to get very strong coverage - works really well for Angels of Redemption. Since I prime with tan primer and then go up to ushabti, I like to get a darker undercoat for the caliban green to go on. So I'll thin the black paint with ink to get a single strong, but thin, undercoat.

 

Can do the same with white ink/paint, I think Vince Venturella has a demo working with white ink and doing that.

Edited October 21, 2020 by WrathOfTheLion