Magnet novice

[Valkyrion]

I've bought some solid movement trays and I want to put a small magnet under a models base and a magnet in the 'cup' of the movement tray.

 

It's these that I've bought if it matters;

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-32mm-movement-trays-warhammer-40k-aos-age-of-Sigmar-Apocalypse/163810399403?hash=item2623dc54ab:g:WuMAAOSwxOBdTSYH&var=463360581829

 

I've never magnetised anything before, so I have no idea which type of magnets to buy or how to adhere them to the plastic of the base, so any tips would be welcome!

 

 

[Bryan Blaire]

I use N52 magnets (K&J Magnetics), and just secure them with standard superglue/Zap-a-Gap, depending on what I have on hand at the time.

[Jolemai]

Maybe this will be of some use:

 

http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

 

:)

[pawl]

A little while ago someone was asking about magnets in a discord group I'm part of, and I wrote this:

 

"For polarity, always remain consistent!

Get yourself a spare of whatever you're working on, say a torso. Put one magnet in (shoulder, neck, whatever) and use that as your template for all infantry. Regardless of what you're magnetising, always work the same way. So if you have say + facing in (towards the 'centre' of the model) and - facing out then you would know that a wrist magnet should have the + in and - out. If you're not sure, take whatever you need to attach, like a hand with a pistol, and make sure that the magnet in it will attach to your torso template.

That way, all your magnetised options will work for anything. Last minute change of list and you need your assault squad sergeant to carry a plasma pistol, but haven't made one for him? Steal the spare from your Captain!

 

The same applies to vehicles. If you need sponsons for your predator but didn't make any for this one, steal them from another predator that has spares. Because everything is aligned the same way, they're guaranteed to work.

[Firedrake Cordova]

I've used First4Magnets/MagnetExpert before: https://www.first4magnets.com/circular-disc-rod-c34

 

They do a pretty wide variety of them, just don't get carried away with the pull strength (definitely avoid the 130kg one :lol:)

[Syrakul]

I mistakenly got some N35 once... you typically don't want those...

But I will say that certain smaller delicate infantry can use 42/45 or less, because the grip to the tray feels so much stronger then the models feet to the base. (Feel like you'd break the model before it comes off the tray)

I would say as mentioned above that maintaining correct polarity on base magnets, and keeping the magnet centered is important, as otherwise ingame you can have issues with models standing close wanting to 'snap' together. With appropriate magnet strength and centering this will never be an issue.

 

I also have lots of issues with glue, even gorilla glue, eventually causing the base magnets to snap away. The uncertainty when in transit has put me off the process but I will try zap-a-gap in the future and see how that goes.

[pawl]

I also have lots of issues with glue, even gorilla glue, eventually causing the base magnets to snap away. The uncertainty when in transit has put me off the process but I will try zap-a-gap in the future and see how that goes.

Could you explain this a little more? If you mean that the magnet comes away from the base while in use is it due to a gap between the magnets? If so removing the gap by mounting the magnet on plasticard or similar will result in a better connection, and less breakage.

 

 

As an aside, ferromagnetic sheeting is an option to consider for the trays themselves. Inexpensive and flexible, and it would mean that the magnets on the bases wouldn't need to be uniform in position as they can stick anywhere to the tray.

[Valkyrion]

Thanks for your help. I've ordered some n52s and a ferrous sheet to have a play with!

[Syrakul]

...

Could you explain this a little more? If you mean that the magnet comes away from the base while in use is it due to a gap between the magnets? If so removing the gap by mounting the magnet on plasticard or similar will result in a better connection, and less breakage.

As an aside, ferromagnetic sheeting is an option to consider for the trays themselves. Inexpensive and flexible, and it would mean that the magnets on the bases wouldn't need to be uniform in position as they can stick anywhere to the tray.

That is certainly part of the reason, it can take more work finding the right thickness to apply in between to get the magnet flush.

I find that if the magnet actually touches down on the metal plate that can cause snapping off too as the force of clicking down vibrates the join.

Recently tried using some plastic pipe that hugs the magnet (because i sadly only used N35 for the holes)

Inside the base hole: 1.2mm Diameter, approx 1mm depth (don't go over or risk magnet jutting out)

Outer circle held by plastic pipe, compare pipe inner diameter/magnet diameter