Chalky White spray

[Valkyrion]

Have I caused my spray to go bad by either incorrect storage or not shaking enough?

 

If not, is the whole can going to be chalky or is there something I can do to unchalkify it?

[Grotsmasha]

GW's Corax White spray is , use either of their contrast sprays, they are miles better.

 

With that out of the way, there are a few things you can do to help prevent chalky sprays

- Shike for like 2 mins solid, I even flip the can, no idea if it helps, but it doesn't hurt

- Don't spray in direct sunlight, this can cause the paint to dry in the air, causing the chalky-ness

- Don't spray from too far away, as same as above. Typically I spray a little closer that GW recommends with their sprays

- Humidity causes issues too.

 

The paint in the can should be fine to use, it doesn't go off, as far as I've experienced at least. Taking the above into consideration, try to spray in a shaded area, in the cool of the morning or afternoon in summer, or once it's warmer, late morning, early afternoon in winter. IIRC GW recommends like 2 feet? I'm usually around 1 foot, maybe a smidge less. And remember two medium paced, smooth passes, 2-3 per side of the model, rather than one slow thick pass.

Edited July 20, 2021 by Grotsmasha

[Xenith]

In general, 'white' sprays are tricky as they need coarser pigment particles. As Grotsmasha says, it's likely the paint is drying in the air before it hits the model, making it fuzzy/chalky. I prime from ~20cm, not the 30 GW says, and not on hot days/direct sunlight.

 

I can't reccomend grey seer enough - it's much finer, bit thinner so needs a few coats, but weirdly, it's brighter than the grey seer pot paint. Grey seer spray is actually identical to corax white (actually a grey) pot paint, so that might help. 

Edited July 20, 2021 by Xenith

[Firedrake Cordova]

As has been said, the normal cause for a rough finish is the paint drying before it reaches the model. This is more apparent with white paint, because it normally uses titanium oxide for pigment, which is (relatively) fairly coarse. This generally means:

• Spray from a shorter distance
• Make sure you've shaken then can enough. When you think you have, shake it some more :P
• If it's cold, stand the spray can in warm water for a while to heat the contents up before shaking it
• Make sure the humidity isn't too low.

As always, employ good spray practice (start spraying "off the model", bring the spray over the model, stop spraying "off" the model; use light coats).

 

Some people have had issues with GW's spray cans, and prefer Army Painter/Rustoleum/Halford's car paint. I can't comment on these, as I've not used them (I went the airbrush route).

[Jason_In_Alaska]

Molotow One4All Signal White, and Signal Black through a airbrush is what I have been using for primer and I will never go back to traditional primer.

[MithrilForge]

I stand the can of Corax white in a sink of very warm (hot) water for 5-10 mins then shake it up and spray... smooth as a baby's proverbial... 

I too had the chalkiness from Corax white spray for years before i did this. 

 

Mithril

Edited July 22, 2021 by mithrilforge

[Valkyrion]

Thanks for the replies.

 

is there anything to be done about the minis that have ended up chalky though? Will a respray remove it?

[Grotsmasha]

Thanks for the replies.

 

is there anything to be done about the minis that have ended up chalky though? Will a respray remove it?

 

Sadly, no, the only way to recover them is to strip the paint.

[Rik Lightstar]

Thanks for the replies.

 

is there anything to be done about the minis that have ended up chalky though? Will a respray remove it?

 

Often a quick bit of attention with a toothbrush will get the furry/chalkiness off, a light solvent such as airbrush cleaner may help.

 

If that doesn't work then BioStrip 20 is a great product.

 

Rik

[MithrilForge]

Thanks for the replies.

 

is there anything to be done about the minis that have ended up chalky though? Will a respray remove it?

 

also, i found some light buffing work with a polishing cloth can help smooth down the chalkiness as well, it'll take some firm but consistent rubbing work, but i'd reserve that for say an expensive character or model you really really want to save 

 

Mithril

[Wulf Vengis]

I can vouch for the toothbrush method. A minute or two of rub down with a toothbrush will take care of that fuzzy/rough feeling. I had to brush all the orks after priming last summer.