Tamiya Extra Thin Cement

[KAINE-77]

Just a question about the Tamiya Extra Thin...

 

So, after seeing loads of reviews, I decided to pick up a bottle and was impressed how easy it was to use, and was pleased to see all the reviews were spot on... But, about a week later, having finished a squad, starting prepping for painting and I've already had several components fall off!

(Just general handling/movement no drops from height)

 

Am I doing something wrong/not using enough?

 

[Jukkiz]

you applying glue on both sides? That´s a no-no

Thin cement is basically best used for smaller parts and hiding small seams

[Firedrake Cordova]

Can't say I've had any problems with it (I've used it for a couple of years) - is it possible that you had grease or something on the components?

 

Most people use it by mating the two surfaces to be glued together, and running the brush along the join, letting capillary action draw the glue into the joint, but you can also use it in the more "traditional" manner (glue along one/both pieces and hold the parts together) without any issues, as long as you're quick. It takes about 30s or so for it to "take", during which you probably want to be holding the parts together but beyond that, I don't think there are really any special considerations.

 

Tamiya "Extra Thin Quick Set" (lime cap) forms a weaker bond than "Extra Thin" (green cap), which forms a weaker bond than the regular Tamiya cement (white cap), however, the regular Tamiya cement can ooze and will eat detail if you get the glue in the wrong place.

Edited April 12, 2022 by Firedrake Cordova

[Doctor Perils]

Are you glueing before or after painting?

[KAINE-77]

Hi all, thanks for the replies!

 

To go into a little more detail, building a box of Reivers (Hounds Of Morkai), dab of glue on one component, press together for 30-40 seconds, all good. complete the team maybe last Wednesday... Settle down today, final clean up and basing (I like to base then prime), handling models to put texture paint on the bases and...

 

One grenade pouch falls off, okay, no biggie, then an arm comes off another model... Then one fella decides he doesn't need a base!

(I've filed the parts, scored them and have since reattached them)

 

It just kinda goes against all the reviews etc I've heard about Tamiya being the gold standard!

And as I tend to use a lot of drybrushing, worried I'm gonna be trapped in some kind of vicious cycle!

 

I guess it could be because I'm so used to Citadel glue that I'm fiddling with the parts too much rather than letting the capillary action work its magic?

Edited April 12, 2022 by KAINE-77

[Aarik]

I tried it and ultimately didn't like it for similar reasons.  For regular gluing, it seemed to have a hard time getting things to stick in a way other plastic glues didn't.

[Firedrake Cordova]

Personally, what I'd do for smaller parts is paint a thin layer of glue onto the part, and press it onto the model, then, when it looks like it's dry, run a small amount around the join between the two parts to act as a "top up", and let the capillary action do its thing.

 

All of my Aeronautica Imperialis stuff has been glued with Tamiya Extra Thin, and I've not had any of it fall apart, despite some of the models having been dropped (two down the stairs )

 

Revell Contacta is similar to the regular ("thick") Tamiya plastic cement and GW plastic glue - it's supposed to form a stronger bond than the "thin" glues, but you've got to be more careful with application (it comes in a squeezy bottle with a needle applicator, so it's a bit easier to apply than the thick Tamiya due to the size of the brush that comes with) - if you continue to have issues with the Tamiya Extra Thin, maybe that's an option?

Edited April 13, 2022 by Firedrake Cordova

[Xenith]

I think the thin glues go on in a thinner layer, so less glue. For superglue this is ok as you just need that contact, however poly cement undergoes a reaction that weakens surfaces then welds together - in that instance I'd say less glue (reactant) = less plastic that goes gooey = weaker bond?

[Jukkiz]

I think the thin glues go on in a thinner layer, so less glue. For superglue this is ok as you just need that contact, however poly cement undergoes a reaction that weakens surfaces then welds together - in that instance I'd say less glue (reactant) = less plastic that goes gooey = weaker bond?

ah, this can be the thing. I had trouble with my first minis with GWs plastic glues too. Had too much there adn it formed intresting, bubbly contact point adn later snapped off by itself. Seems like too little and too much glue might be the reasons the bonding fails

[Son of Sacrifice]

Use it like regular glue, and once the part has set, glue the joint again. It's actually really sturdy.

[Sothalor]

With the really thin Tamiya stuff, I've found that roughing up the surfaces to be bonded helps a lot.

 

You can make very fine crosshatches with a hobby knife, the edge of a file, or some sandpaper. Basically anything that makes the surfaces slightly less smooth and increases the total surface area for the cement to seep into.

[Xenith]

^^ That also.

 

Depending on the part, you can also apply poly cement, then attach parts, then wiggle/rotate them a little to 'mush' them together to merge the two weakened component surfaces for a stronger bond.

Edited April 14, 2022 by Xenith

[KAINE-77]

Quick update:

 

Yup, started drybrushing then blocking in colours etc, every single model has had something fall off!